I thought of this the other day and was just wondering if anyone had tried it. I am not sure of all the details, so I am looking for input from ya'll. I figured I would save some space her by just linking to my site.http://www.geocities.com/dirtroadkid/crazyidea.html
Autococking 98C
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I have one
That is, because of my valve mods, when you screw the tank on it cocks itself
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With extensive modification, lots of time and no life I'm sure you could jerry-rig a closed bolt Tippmann. You'd need pneumatics and some way to mount them and more importantly, make them work. Or you could just have Doc Nickle do it for you. You won't get your gun back for a year and a half, but it'll be the most unique gun on the field when it finally comes back!Comment
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it would totally work. the only thing I would change is this. you already have a link rod in the gun that links the hammer to the bolt. dont use a back block at all. put the ram on top of the gun and connect it directly to the stock link rod. then slot the hammer so that it will cock it on the back stroke and just slide forward (in the slot) on the forward stroke.

"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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I had added a back block mainly because I think they look cool, and it was the first way of doing it I thought of. As for the ram on top of the body, I have plans for a sight rail and scope up there so I don't know if it will all fit, but it would save me from having to machine a whole new assembly. I had planned on hiding the ram just where the receiver and the grip come together. It seems very out of the way there.
By the way, XEN_100, I was wondering if I could post your pic on my site, giving you credit of course?Comment
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ya, no problem. it is basically your drawing......i just changed it a bit.
you could put the ram on the side of the gun too, instead of on top. you would just have the ram connect to the link rod on the side instead of top. as long as there are no parts in the way, it would work the same way.
I think you wold have a hard time tucking it into the space you are looking at. the sear, sear spring, etc would be in the way, plus you have to have room for the three way in there too. it will get crowded really fast!
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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Just leave the bolt as a blowback. It's gonna blowback anyway unless you make a custom valve that seals to the rear. All you have to do it hook a ram to the front bolt, and a 3 way to the trigger.Comment
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very good point.........add that to the mod list. custom valve.
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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Trains, thank you, I had completely forgotten about the valve blowing back the hammer. I can not believe that it slipped my mind. Do you think that it would cause a problem if I didn't alter the valve, maybe putting to much force on the hammer or ram? I would rather not mess with the valve, but I guess I could always get a spare if I screwed it up, huh?
Xen, I was thinking about putting the ram on the outside of the body, where it goes from round to flat, not really inside, but on the top is starting to grow on me.
Thanks guys, this really does help.Comment
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You're either going to have to make a custom valve or just ignore the back half and let it do it's thing. If you leave it as a blowback of course you're not going to gain any effieciency or quietness. But then the whole mod is kind of pointless. I saw a spyder-cocker once and it was a closed bolt blowback as well.Comment
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I have never really looked close at a M98 valve. it there a flat spot on the valve pin (like psyders) that allows the blowback gases to get back there? how does the hammer get blown back on those?
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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Around the valve pin. It is all sealed around the outside and air comes out around the valve pin. I thought about o ringing that, but the material is too thin, the hole too oversize and the pin MAY be tapered. You'd have to machine a new Al valve body that is oringable. Not hard for a good machinist.Comment
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would it seal 'well enough' if a new pin were made that was very close tolerance to the hole in the stock valve? that is what I did with my spyder-cocker and it works great.
"super multi-green mag" Cp barrels, LX bolt, no-rise, intelli, 47ci flatline, halo................
Red dragun body, turbo valve, 12" Boomstick, Spud magics anti-chop bolt with quickstrip, ELCD, nitroduck 68CI,Gas thru stock, 12V revy, AGD Warpfeed system
Xen's paintball pagesComment
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