New Y-Grip. Now RT won't shoot.

[JT3]

Okay, here's the deal. I just upgraded my classic RT from a Benchmark 2 frame to a Y-Grip. I verified that my RT Sear assembly is the proper length (1.98"), but the marker simply won't shoot. It gasses up, and the trigger is pushed out like it should be... but pulling the trigger does nothing. If I put the Benchy back on, it works fine. What kind of things should I be looking for? I don't want to buy a new on/off assembly if I don't need to (Hey, 30 bucks is 30 bucks), so if there's something else that can cause this, I'm all ears.

By the way, input pressure makes no difference. I've run everything from 400 to 1100 PSI, and the marker still won't fire.

Any suggestions?

EDIT: I guess I should have put this in the first place, but I'm running a Classic RT with a LvlX kit. My tank is a Nitroduck 68ci 4500PSI, with an output adjustable from 0-1200PSI. Any other configuration questions, just ask.

[fire1811]

are you sure you didnt make the sear too long?
did you measure from the back?

and are you running lvlX?

[xen_100]

lengthen the trigger rod just a tiny bit to see if that is the problem. if it shoots with a slightly longer trigger rod setting, then that is your problem. (I know people say to never touch the trigger rod, but this is for diagnostic purposes. you can always put it back if that does not solve it)

[JT3]

Yes, I measured it from the back. It was dead on at 1.98", so I didn't have to adjust it.

So... so far, I have one person telling me to lengthen it, and one telling me that it's too long. Which is more likely?

[xen_100]

more than likely too short.........if it were too long then it would fire, but you would be pushing the on/off and sear too far back. this could cause premature wear on the bolt and sear. if you look at how the sear releases the bolt, if it is too short it will not fire because it is not being pushed back far enough for the sear to clear the edge of the bolt, thus no fire.

the fact that it fires fine with the benchy would lead me to believe that it is not an LX problem, but you could put the short spring in there for testing purposes so that it will fire more easily. this would rule out an LX problem contributing to the gripframe problem you are trying to figure out.

[fire1811]

yeah go with that
to many beers today i guess

[JT3]

Okay... with everyone so far pointing the finger at the trigger rod length, I've noticed something. When gassed up, the trigger rod is firmly pressed to the trigger. There is absolutely no gap whatsoever.

Now, I haven't made any adjustments yet, because I'm hearing that the rod is more than likely NOT too long, yet, I've always heard that there should be a slight gap between the trigger and the trigger rod. Is that not true? I swear, I'm getting more and more confused with each post.

So... with this new information... what's the consensus now? Too long or too short... or something else entirely?

[fire1811]

yes there should be a small gap between the trigger.
IF i remember correctly it should be about the width of a dime.

[xen_100]

I have never seen a y-grip up close, but on my normal intelli I have a slight gap between the trigger rod and the trigger. if the trigger rod is touching the trigger already, there is no easy way to make it longer without causing other problems (like firing once and then not being able to fire again becuase the rod wont come far enough forward to catch the bolt again. at least that might happen)

when you first gas it up does it sound normal? gasses up and the trigger rod clicks into place? does if fire once when you gas up? when you pull the trigger, it has a normal amount of resistance?

try this.......take the trigger out. that will let the trigger rod come to rest where ever it wants to. then push on the trigger rod dirrectly (screw driver or allen wrench) will if fire then?

[trains are bad]

Make sure your safety is off.

[JT3]

Oh! The safety! Duh! Yeah, right. Thanks for the input, but please...

Getting back to reality.

I shortened the trigger rod to 1.96", and the marker would fire... but it started leaking out the back. A little bit more (1.95"), and everything seems to be working ok. 1.94" worked also, but the trigger rod seemed to be pretty sloppy on the back of the trigger (as in... it noticeably traveled up and down the back of the trigger). 1.95" seems to stay put pretty well, while still allowing the marker to fire (without rear leakage). Thanks to all.

Okay, now... another question. I obviously have a trigger rod that's NOT set to factory standards. So... how do I know what is the OPTIMAL setting for my marker? Judging from what I've said, is 1.95" the best setting, or is there a better way to set it?

Secondly, why would the standard length NOT work? I have a standard RT, with a standard LvlX, and (now) a standard Y-Grip. Why wouldn't the standard settings be correct?

[xen_100]

that is only .03" out, so I wouldn't worry about it too much. the opitmal setting would be one that lets the gun fire realiably, but doesn't wear the bolt or the sear. unfortunatly you wont be able to tell if it does that until you notice wear. but the fact that you have it set to where it just fires reliably. I would be willing to bet it is set correctly for your setup.

as for why, maybe some part on the valve is just on the edge of tolerance and the grip is on the edge of tolerance the other way making the combination slightly touchy. as long as you got it working, that is the important part.

[trains are bad]

Thanks for the input, but please...

Just trying to help.

your problem sounds weird.

[JT3]

Hehe... Don't worry about it. I was being more sarcastic than anything. I wasn't trying to bite your head off or anything. Sorry if it sounded that way.