Upgrading Classic Mag, Advice Needed!

[mshobe]

Got my mag from when i was 15 (1995) today in the mail. Like a timewarp. Notice the original warning sticker still on the barrel.

Here's some pics.



As you can see, completely original.

First things my friends pointed out was how high the hopper sits. I'm gonna cut some of the feed tube off until i get a new body.

I want to modernize my marker's performance. What would you do in what order? Why?

[Enemy]

first would be either a ULE body, double Trigger or X-valve but look into all three. the body is center fed so it will help keep up feed rates. belive it or not the standard feed bodys had trouble holding their own. the Double Trigger is for obvious reasons unless you like single trigger feel. and the x-vavle will help in recharge rate and give you a reactive trigger that will bring up speed massivley..if these are out of your price range look into a Lvl 10 kit first this will prevent major headaches but remember x-vavle comes with lvl 10 so take that into consideration.

[tonybhall]

up grades

Hey MSHOBE,

You really need to get a level 10. But like Enemy points out, if you get an X-Valve, if comes with a level 10. The Level 10 stops the chops. You may want to look into the go x-valve trade in program.

Next I would get a ule body. If you really want to move that hopper out of the way get a warp body and a warp.

I would also move the ASA to a bottom line set up. Maybe get a foregrip too.

I would also get an double trigger frame unless you like single triggers. And if you plan to pull that trigger very fast you need to get a motorized hopper.

Hope this helps,

[tonybhall]

check out the Custom ULE RTP package

Hey,

One more thing. Before you do all that upgrading, you may want to check out the Custom ULE RT Pro that AGD is offering. I had a classic mag a lot like yours and wanted to upgrade, but it worked out better for me to just sell my old mag and get a new one. It was going to cost me 385.00 plus shipping to do all the upgrades I wanted. Instead, I sold my old mag for $200.00. I added $340.00 to that and got a new RT Pro with every upgrade they offered.

[soccer4minimags]

I'm going to go against what everyone else is saying here.
Don't do a thing, maybe add lvl 10 if you need it. And get a powerfeed body. Possible a new barrel if you feel you need it.
I'd leave it classic and simple, just how it is meant to be. Yes everyone is telling you to go RT, and yes RT is great but you have a really cool classic mag. I definitely would not touch that back bottle adapter, you can't get those anymore.
The most I'd do is make a sleeper mag. put in LVL 10, and maybe a ULT and a powerfeed body. everything else I'd leave alone.

[Remake101]

Ok here is everything you need for the best possible mechanical mag there is:
ULE Body

X-Valve

Y-Frame, Intelliframe, or a logic vert frame

Logic custom milled rail

Revy or like wise



Optional:
ULT trigger pull system, this all depends if you like the reactivity of your trigger. You will get more reactivity without the ULT but you will fire faster with it.

Vertical adapter and Regulator, this will increase effectiveness of your air but is not necessary for it to work properly

A good drop or cradle instead of having it attached to the back near the valve, this will allow you to get the gun in closer to your body for speed balling.

[athomas]

Stay simple.

My preference in order of preference.

- Get an agitated or powered hopper.
- Get a compressed air bottle instead of CO2 in order for you mag to perform better. The larger size of the bottle may make it necessary to intall a bottom line of some sort.
- Get a level 10 bolt kit.
- Get the ULE body and barrel to match (cocker threads). This stops those nasty broken or twisted elbows.
- double trigger assembly (personal preference). I still have two with single trigger frames I am very happy with.

[Buff]

I would buy a cheap used pwerfd/cntrfd body, LX, and a forgrip/drop, then a barrel. Anything else and its better to buy a ULE RT custom

[the electrician]

It's all about how much money you want to spend. most everybody makes good suggestions.

from the looks of the gun, first off, I would make it more comfortable to shoot. I like the vertical ASA adapter. put a small line with a diconnect and a couple elbows on each end. kinda like this 4" steel line w/ quick disconnect and elbows:
http://home.kc.rr.com/theelectrician...gsideview2.jpg
notice it all fits under the power feed. if you take a little time and line it up, the valve goes on and off super easy, no matter what valve(classic, X-valve).

with the vertical you can use a simple gas through grip, fairly cheap.

I would also suggest some simple AGD wrap around grips:

http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=catalog.prodInfo&productID=126&categoryID=16

I suggest this because it's cheap and comfortable. if you're going to spend alot money, don't upgrade this mag, buy a different mag, like the RT custom that is now available. otherwise, your going to buy $500 worth of stuff and the only thing original will be the damn rail.

you know, I've got some extra parts layin around you might like(a power feed body, rubber grips, gas thru grip and other bits and pieces if you want to take an inexpensive route. hell you could do that , and buy an RT custom later.

PM me or e-mail me at: [email protected]

[Maffer]

If you are just a rec player, I would suggest this:
1. buy a fast loader. If you can get balls into the gun fast enough, you won't rightfully chop. The lvl 10 can reduce chops to nil, but it does crap for your firing rate. Also, if you are a good player you can shoot as fast on a classic as the RT, and if your not playing in tournaments then you really don't need that Uber l33t RoF.
2. Depending on where you live, upgrading to an HPA tank. Check your local fields to see if they can fill HPA and if it is practical for you, especially if you play in the cold, you don't wan't to mess around with CO2.
ULE body and x-valve are just too expensive for the regular rec player, you could spend that $400 playing about a years worth of paintball. The ULT wasn't made for the Classic, so I wouldn't suggest that. Lastly, I suggest spending the money on buying a good barrel, namely a DYE Stainless Steal, or Boomstick, something like that.

[mshobe]

Originally posted by Maffer
If you are just a rec player, I would suggest this:
1. buy a fast loader. If you can get balls into the gun fast enough, you won't rightfully chop. The lvl 10 can reduce chops to nil, but it does crap for your firing rate. Also, if you are a good player you can shoot as fast on a classic as the RT, and if your not playing in tournaments then you really don't need that Uber l33t RoF.
2. Depending on where you live, upgrading to an HPA tank. Check your local fields to see if they can fill HPA and if it is practical for you, especially if you play in the cold, you don't wan't to mess around with CO2.
ULE body and x-valve are just too expensive for the regular rec player, you could spend that $400 playing about a years worth of paintball. The ULT wasn't made for the Classic, so I wouldn't suggest that. Lastly, I suggest spending the money on buying a good barrel, namely a DYE Stainless Steal, or Boomstick, something like that.

I got an aluminum DYE on the way, a maxflo 68/4500 on the way, a revolution hopper and a drop forward on the way.

I was hoping to try it all out together on sunday, but looks like it won't all get here by then.

Is an aluminum DYE any good? I bought it off some guy here for 20 bucks. Better than what it came with stock, i figured.

I do think i'll need a different body, though. I'm not sure if this standard feed is up to snuff. Somebody should sell me a powerfeed or centerfeed cheap, i hope.

thanks for the honesty, i don't need the best, i am a rec player, afterall. I wouldn't mind a double trigger someday, though.

[Maffer]

yeah, those two parts sound very good. All high end barrels (barrel kits like the Pipe and Freak excluded) for the most part will all shoot the same, you just need to find out the best paint/barrel match and you will shoot darts! I can't tell from the pic, is the body an left or right hand feed, or center feed? I was thinking it was center, but if it isn't you would want to find a powerfeed body, I would suggest a Minimag body, they are stainless which I think is a good thing, but most people are moving to ULE so you could find one for cheap. Make sure that when you get the body to check to see if it has the powerfeed plug, if not you will want to order one from AGD, and order o-rings or gun oil at the same time to save on shipping. Hope this helps you out some, and good luck getting your stuff soon, the best part about paintball is playing it!