X-Valve/Level 10 Problem

[Raven4000SX]

For your information: I am not new to Mags, Valves, or Level 10.

My last setup was a Level 10 ReTro Valve which ran very reliably and had no problems. I sold my ReTro Valve about 3 weeks ago and bought myself a new X-Valve for only *$75*. :)

I put started with the 1 carrier, oiled it and installed the o-ring and two shims. I put on the medium spring. Fired it hundreds of times to break in the the new o-ring until it began to leak. So I went down to the .5 carrier and the leak stopped. On Easter Sunday I went to play and the X-Valve was giving me major problems. It was missing shots and "chuffing" a lot. At first I thought it was a Warp Feed problem, so I changed the batteries. That didn't solve anything. I checked for jams and other feed related problems. In the end I found out that the spring had been to strong, so I went to the short spring. It still doesn't shoot the same as my old ReTro Valve.

Why did my X-Valve seem to fire ok at home with the medium (red) spring at home, but not on the field? I want to be able to use the middle spring because it is a lot softer on paint than the short spring. The middle spring had worked fine with my older valve. Any suggestions? I'm not happy with the setup right now, it only fires single shots and I can not rapid fire it. Yes I did turn up the velocity.

.5 carrier
2 shims
medium spring

[Chronobreak]

WOAH! im kinda lost here but sounds kinda like u didnt size the lvlX right get the manual online and follow the directions carefully if u need more help lmk im sure it wont be hard to fix


--edit


it seems like u may want to pay x-tra attention to this part and i believe although i didnt check u should start with one spacer

O-ring inside carrier
Pickup one of the brass O-ring carriers (4) and push a power tube O-ring (2) into the end that does not have a tapered hole. It should not go in one side and either slide in or press into the correct side. There are 5 carriers supplied with your kit, each one is a little bigger than the next. They each have small grooves on the outside to help you tell them apart. The more grooves the larger the carrier.

Tune the carrier to the bolt and O-ring
Each batch of o-rings is a little different than the last. In order to compensate for this we need to find the proper size carrier. The idea is to get a good seal with as little friction as possible. Take the carrier with the O-ring installed and push it O-ring first onto the pin sticking out the back of the bolt. If it pushes on too hard then go to a larger carrier, if it slides freely on the pin then go one smaller. The proper fit should be just snug.

[Raven4000SX]

I already owned a Level 10 kit before and it worked perfectly. I don't really need the directions. I probably owned Level 10 longer than you since I was a beta tester. The problem I think is with the springs.

[deathstalker]

I had a similar situation happen to me last month. Let me ask a couple questions:

1. What barrel were you using and what is its bore size?
2. When you were dry-firing to break in the o-ring, did you have your barrel on?

The reason I ask is the exact same thing happened to me. I bought an E-Mag (with an E-Mag valve, not X) that had less than a case through it and shooting it at home, sans barrel, made me so incredibly happy. I was able to rip on it like I've never ripped before.

The next week I go to play and from the first shot, I was constantly chuffing. I might be able to get off a short string of 5-10 balls every so often, but I was chuffing more often than not. I thought at first it was my Warp, but the problem remained after I took it off.

I was using a twist-lock AutoSpirit, which I had used many times before with my Classic and X-Valves. When I stripped down the marker, I noticed a lot of wear on the barrel where the bolt enters it. Turns out the lvl 10 bolt from the E-Mag was just a little too big for the AutoSpirit. It would come into contact with it and chuff. I took the bolt off my X-Valve, which I already knew worked just fine, and my E-Mag was back to ripping-goodness.

So... you might need to use a barrel with a larger bore, try to get a new bolt for your lvl 10, or sand a little off the bolt you have. Assuming this is even the problem. Hope I helped!

[Raven4000SX]

Hey man that's good thinking about the barrel. I didn't think of that myself. When I was dry firing at home I was using a Taso Eliminator. When I went out to play, I was using my brand new Dye Ultralite. I thought they both worked fine but when I was playing I was using the Ultralite. I have not expriemented witht the barrels, but I will as soon as I get my tank back from Hydro. By the way the Dye Ultralite ID is .688

[deathstalker]

I didn't even need to shoot it to figure out the bolt was the problem (not the barrel, in my case). I just took off my barrel, took off the bolt, and tried to insert it into the barrel. I got a lot of resistance and the anno had worn away.

I just want to make clear that in my situation it wasn't the barrel, it was the bolt. The X-Valve lvl 10 bolt fit just fine, but the E-Mag one did not. Thank god I decided to keep both my valves or I could have ended up spending more money trying to fix it.

[Raven4000SX]

It still doesn't shoot right without the barrel. I'm using the middle spring and want to keep it that way.

[Raven4000SX]

does anyone know if the beta test middle spring (the cut one) was made softer than the new Red one that comes with X-Valves? The short spring makes the gun shoot very reliably but I can't seem to get it to shoot with the red spring. When I had the beta test level 10 kit on my ReTro, the cut spring worked great. Does this mean I should cut down my red spring? The short one works but is too hard on my finger and probably too hard on paint. Any ideas?

[Zneaky]

What does the long spring do? better worse?

[Raven4000SX]

the long spring will only make things worse since it puts more force on the bolt holding it back.

[Raven4000SX]

Problem is solved, I found out today that it was the tanks output pressure. I was borrowing a ACI Bulldog tank which has a 800psi output. Today I got a AGD Flatline that I tuned to about 900 psi and I'm using the middle spring now. It shoots great and very fast. I guess the 800psi wasn't enough to fire the gun. I never changed the velocity on the X-Valve, just the input pressure.