Bad_Dog's trigger stop thread

[Pain For Pleasure]

Rifleman- How did you adjust it? Just like a normal valve? When I tried mine, it seemes like there was no clear cut end where I could adjust it to. It made it so that I sometimes it would fire, and other times it wouldn't. Also, when you say walkable, did you also have ULT? I just have the stock on/off, so that may be the difference. If you could post your experience tuning it, that would be great, because now its just making my trigger look ugly with no function. I also thought it would be better to post here rather than PMs because other people may have the same issues.

[rifleman wi]

yes i have the ult... and how do u mean how did i adjust it..?.. i had the screw set so that there was only a little slack after the pull ( when the RT kicks in).. i dono.. since i have the ULT.. i dono if it will make a big diffrence in adjustments.. it might..

[jrod]

Big Thanks!!!

Thanks Bad Dog for this great post. I just finished the mod on my Tac One. It works great. I only did the rear trigger stop, but I'm confident enough now to try the top stop as well. I bought a tap and drill set from Sears for only $11.99. The screws cost 20 cents each. This mod is very easy if you take your time. The trigger is a relatively soft aluminum that is easy to drill. The worst that can happen is that you destroy a $20 trigger.

[cledford]

[jrod]

I got the same problem. I think this is what everyone refers to as bolt stick. I think I got mine fixed by adding two shims to the level x. I also backed out the trigger set screw a little bit. It seems to be working now. I'm out of air now, but I'll know Saturday how it works.

[urbansix]

up.....

I can never find this and i'm trying it this weekend....thought it would be stickied by now....

[Mrmacdude]

I don't get something.


Why is the back trigger stop more important?

If you dont pull it back all the way, the sear wont trip... there's no adjustment to be made.

I woulda thunk the top one is the only relevant one.

[trains are bad]

Pull the trigger back slowly, and you will notice the sear trips toward the middle of the pull, then the trigger can go back a bit further. The back stop keeps this extra travel from happening.

IMO the front screw is POINTLESS because you can do the same thing by adjusting the length of the sear rod. Of course a bunch of people will now notify me that OMG YOU NEVER MESS WITH THE SEAR ROD!!!! because legend has it, catastrophic things will happen, even though a front trigger stop DOES THE EXACT SAME THING and causes the exact same problems when improperly adjusted.

If you want to minimize pretravel, adjust the sear rod outward to adjust the slack out, but ALWAYS make sure there is some slack between the rod and the trigger when the marker is aired up, or bad things WILL happen.

[RogueFactor]

IMO the front screw is POINTLESS because you can do the same thing by adjusting the length of the sear rod. Of course a bunch of people will now notify me that OMG YOU NEVER MESS WITH THE SEAR ROD!!!! because legend has it, catastrophic things will happen, even though a front trigger stop DOES THE EXACT SAME THING and causes the exact same problems when improperly adjusted.

Which happens to be the reason why AGD does not condone the use of trigger stops, and if improperly used invalidates your warranty if found to be the root/cause of the problem.

As long as your willing to pay for your own mistakes, nobody really cares. Its when a user attempts a mod that doesnt work out, and then expects the manufacturer to pay for it

Pay me now, or pay me later...tinker at your own risk.

[PrimoRocker]

This thread died and i want to do this.