Just got my RTULE, having Level10 problems

[Duck Hunt]

Ok, I just got my mag. Without making ANY changes too it I screwed in my tank ( 800 psi ) and it worked pretty good. Every now and then the bolt wouldn't vent enough air for the spring to return and I'd have to stick my finger in there and recock it. I added 1 shim (making it 3 shims in there) and did nothing else and I still have the bolt not returning problem although not quite as much but still too annoying. I'm using the smallest spring and no idea what carrier is in there. I chronoed at 270 280ish. I put 4 shims in there and it leaks immediatly when I gas it up. Any help would be great pleeeeeeaaaaaase =)

Sean

[Chronobreak]

try dif springs ide use the red one most likely shouldnt ned more than two shims max

[CaliMagFan]

ok sean.... welcome to the problem of the day.... if you click the link in my sig you'll find all sorts of answers and stuff to diff RTP ule questions... but for your's specifically here is what is happenning and how to fix it..

you shoot the bolt recocks seemingly, but you cant shoot again, you have to put your finger in the breech and reset the bolt by hand... happens intermitently... 4-5 shots or so, 20, whatever... this is not a lvl10 problem... this is a ULE body issue.... the ULE bodies are made of lightweight aluminum... thus they are more subject to twisting and bending than their stainless steel counterparts of the past... what is happenning is that the 2 screws that hold the body to teh rail/trigger frame are not tightened equal to eachother.... so, the procedure is as follows....

get a generic lvl10 setup and 3 or so ult shims, with maybe 1 lvl10 shim... use the stockspring to start..... tighten the front screw (the one in the trigger guard) as you would normally. For the field strip screw, tighten it in by hand, adn gas upthe marker..... you should be able to fire at least once before the bolt doesnt reset...right?.... if the bolt then doesnt reset after a couple of shots, then leave it....take out your allen wrench and use it to tighten the field strip screw.... tighten in small increments and when you hear the bolt lock up, you know that you have turned the field strip screw in enough to equal the force of the screw inthe trigger guard..... all in all a pretty basic deal..... but this problem has plagued many, as it did me at first... just be diligent and change one thing at a time... the only time that the symptoms will usually return is when you remove the valve for cleaning and tweaking.... you may have to do this procedure whenever you remove the valve, but its a small price to pay for the best mech gun in the world....
cheers---keep us posted on your progress!!
write your fidings at my thread in my sig...thanks
--kyro

[WetPaint]

ok sean.... welcome to the problem of the day.... if you click the link in my sig you'll find all sorts of answers and stuff to diff RTP ule questions... but for your's specifically here is what is happenning and how to fix it..

you shoot the bolt recocks seemingly, but you cant shoot again, you have to put your finger in the breech and reset the bolt by hand... happens intermitently... 4-5 shots or so, 20, whatever... this is not a lvl10 problem... this is a ULE body issue.... the ULE bodies are made of lightweight aluminum... thus they are more subject to twisting and bending than their stainless steel counterparts of the past... what is happenning is that the 2 screws that hold the body to teh rail/trigger frame are not tightened equal to eachother.... so, the procedure is as follows....

That's it, With this, my Mag/03 Shocker decision has been made. If the AGD option is so touchy that the frame screws need balanced tension, I'm going with the Shocker.
BTW: to help understand how the various bolt/valve options work in the 03 Shocker, I made up some nice animated GIF's HERE

[Dayspring]

Not once, EVER, have I seen that as an expanation for a level 10 problem... That's probably the biggest amount of nonsense EVER.

[CaliMagFan]

thats cause its not a lvl 10 issue dayspring.... dont try to argue it cause there are half a dozen ppl that have had that same issue and have resolved it that way... and not one of them had issues with their lvl 10.... care to prove me wrong?... i'm always eager to learn.... thanks

-kyro

[Dayspring]

Simple. Because if the tolerances were THAT tight, EVERYBODY and their mother would have problems with the guns b/c nobody ever "balances the frame screws." Most people hardly ever remove the front frame screw, and only deal with the field strip screw in the back.

A few ISOLATED anomolies, but nothing to present saying "This is how it's done."

As I said before, UTTER NONSENSE.

[CaliMagFan]

hey dayspring-----

"Well I posted about my problems in my own thread and Cali directed me to this one and I decided I'd post my progress.

I started out having the bolt stick problems right outa the box, fixed that after reading this thread =) I did the squeege test and adding another shim (3 shims) and it works pretty good now. I went to the field today and played for most of the day, the reactivity is almost gone which makes it more controlable. My only problem today was I chopped acouple of balls using the smallest spring, I've switched to the red spring and raised my velocity up till it fired and it looks like it'll be alot lighter on the paint. I need to go pack to the field and re chrono and I'll post more updates when I get them. Thanks for the great thread!

Sean" -- Duck Hunt http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...hreadid=129461

Hey dayspring.... lets not start a war here.... but I know what i'm talking about, you seem to know what you're talking about some of the time, so lets just leave it at that.....

but i would urge you, dont be rude, this is AO, we are all entitled to what we want to say inside the confines of the rules. you go spouting off about someone like me- you're wrong in the end, and then where does that leave you?..... come on man... get off your high horse, this is paintball, we're easy going here.

peace
-kyro

[Dayspring]

Whatever.