morlock in hyperframe

[ctheman412]

Has anyone put a morlock board in a hyperframe and got it to work?

Does a capacitor need to be connected like on the original board?

[Butterfingers]

Yep ive done it works great need a ULT kit though.

Im selling the frame and the body rail soon as a set as I have modified it to accept an on/off switch. I used the capacitor straight off the Old board.

I dont have pictures since my digi cam is broken.

I will post it up for sale/ viewing / info as soon as i can find a digi cam.

[ctheman412]

I have the morlock connected to the switch/battery/solenoid from the hyperframe per morlock's directions. It turns on, and I can program it, but it won't activate the solenoid at all. How do I get it working? Do I need a capacitor to give the solenoid more juice to fire? Where do I put the capacitor?

Here's my connections

black/red = battery (ground -)
black/grey = switch (polarity?)
blue/red = solenoid (polarity?)

I'm setting it up to operate in single solenoid mode. It turns on and programs fine, but won't activate the solenoid.

[the electrician]

the capacitor has to be in parallel with the battery. you need to use a cap with the same specs as the original hyperframe cap, or more uFs. DO NOT go lower than 10V in voltage rating! you'll burn it up.

the cap is the ONLY reason that any large solenoid can be powered off of a 9 volt.

a good method is to put the cap in parallel with the battery right at the battery connector. mmake sure that it is on the battery side of the on/off switch, or the on off switch will not keep the cap from powering the board and you will be putting the board through a brown out situation evertime you shut the gun off.

make sure the polarity is correct on the cap. if you hook it up to the battery backwards, it will not charge. alot of time the negative side of the cap is indicated by a series of dashes. this goes to the black wire. heatshrink over the exposed leads of the cap so they don't short out on something.

[Butterfingers]

Yep Electrician Pretty Much Covered it all.

I just snipped the old cap off the board and soldered it in paralell with the batt.

Another option that you might concider is just using rechargable NiMH batts. They allow for a much higher current flow.

[the electrician]

that's a really good point.

you really have to use the cap with the hyperframe.

I would do both. get the cap in there and use Nimh 9 volt batteries instead of those damn alkalines. Nimh rechargeable will end up saving you a ton of money and they can handle larger discharges. you will be much happier with them and your gun.

here's a website that carries lot's of good rechargeable 9volts:

http://www.4cbradio.com/9v_nimh_batteries.htm

the first two would be the best for the hyper frame. the maha powerex or the plainview. they are higher voltage. 9.6 volts when you charge them, you will get about 10.2 volts or so. more power for your giant solenoid. get a good charger too. you can also get some batts for your hopper.

stay away from cheap low voltage rechageable 9 volts. they don't have enough capacity or voltage. stay away from Nicad batteries they are too memory prone. you want to use Nimh so you can give them a quick charge before you play.

[ctheman412]

Thanks guys!! I got it working now...took me a while to make it work. I had it hooked up right with the cap in place, but it still wouldn't fire. Turns out that the solenoid wires have a coating (under the insulation) that has to be scraped off to make contact. I didn't even notice it at first.

It seems to be working great now. Thanks for the help

[adlar]

Instead of using a 9v would one the 9.6 volt airsoft or rc car batteries be a better power source, that is, if you didn't mind the bulk... Or even a slightly higher voltage?