should I get X-valve

[firespyer]

I am just coming back from a 2 yr break, and was looking into getting an x-valve for my minimag. is it really worth it, and is it just a drop in replacement for the current valve, no extra work just slide it in and gas it up????

Thanks for the help

[jwalker87]

the level 10 needs to be tuned, but other than that it is drop-in. Definitely a huuuge upgrade from a classic valve.

[firespyer]

yikes thats what i was kinda afraid of, when it comes to anything more then cleaning my mag i am totally inept. well not really inept but just affraid that I will mess something up and completely screw up my gun

[Dayspring]

That's what AO is here for. Plus, there are detailed instructions as well as a video on how to tune it if need be.

[Chronobreak]

the valve just pops right in and the lvlX isnt hard to tune at all its all about finding the right carrier match

[jwalker87]

and if you're really afraid of tuning it, you can send it to an AGD tech or one of the experienced members here and have them tune it for you.

[firespyer]

i did try just he lvl 10 on my mini, it leaked out my entire tank in about 5 seconds and I couldnt get the carrier back out after that. was I just really unlucky or is there some trick i missed.

[Dayspring]

Take the field strip screw (the big screw that holds the valve in) and thread that into the carrier. It'll grab the oring and you can pull the entire thing out.

Since you're in NJ, if you have any problems, I have no problem looking at it, as well as a few of the other NJ members. One AGD tech (tunaman) lives in NJ and PBX Battlezone is fully staffed by AGD trained people.

[Dryden]

Sounds like you might have missed something. What you need to do is pick out a carrier (the #2 - 2 lines, no dots - is usually a good starting point) and insert one of the white carrier orings. Make certain you've removed everything from inside the power tube, and insert the backing washer then the carrier with oring down. Hand tighten the new power tube tip to get everything seated and flush, then take the power tube tip off, drop in two shims, and lightly tighten the power tube tip with a wrench. Don't do the whole thing in one shot, because it'll be very easy to bend the shims in the threads of the power tube.

From your symptoms, it sounds like either your carrier was too large or you had too many shims. The purpose of the carrier is to hold and compress the oring that fits around the bolt stem. You should be able to "eye-ball it" by selecting a carrier and oring combination that provides a little friction against the bolt - not so much that you need oil or brute force to move it, and not so little that it slides right off if you turn the bolt upside down. For most everyone, the #2 carrier, 2 shims, and the medium spring will get you working. After anywhere from 500 - 1000 shots, you'll need to take it apart and use the same white oring in the #1.5 carrier (1 line, 1 dot). This occurs once the oring has begun to break in. After this, you're pretty much good to go.

To remove the carrier from the power tube, you can use either dental picks (available at any hardware store), tiny precision screw drivers, or even your field strip screw.

As for an X-Valve, it's your call. Some prefer it, others don't see it as such a necessity. The X-Valve cannot run CO2, so unless you know you can run 100% compressed air all the time, it may be handy to keep the classic valve around for an emergency. I would consider keeping your classic valve and try picking up a used X in the dealers forums here. Since colored X-Valves have been released, many people are selling their old black ones with less than a years' use on them.

[firespyer]

thats one thing that I didn't really get, well after my tank leaked out, how long am i supposed to use that med spring for, what is that large one for, and do will i ever actually use the stock sized spring again?

also i guess i screwed up i am pretty sure that I use the carrier with 2 notches, and 1 dot. I will try and get it apart tonight.

thanks for the help offer Dayspring, i may take you up on it.

[Dayspring]

The springs control how soft it's going to hit paint.

Gold spring= stock
Red Spring= medium
Silver= long

The long one is softest but quite troublesome to get working correctly. The gold one is stock, will always work, but isn't as soft on paint. The red one is a good mix of softness and reliability as well as efficiency.

Get used to taking this apart, b/c you'll likely have to change the carrier a few times as the oring wears in.

One tip though- when you set up the level 10, do it without shims. They're used for fine tuning. You gotta get the thing up and running first.

If it leaks out the barrel, push your finger up against the bolt. If the sound changes, go down a 1/2 carrier size. (Less lines)

If it leaks out the barrel and after pushing your finger up against the bolt it stops leaking whatsoever, it's a shim leak. Add a shim. (Do this after you get any carrier leaks taken care of.)

[firespyer]

so basically, i am going to have to 'tune' this thing until for as long as I own the gun?

when i change carriers, do i use the same o-ring or do i use one of the other ones that came in the kit.

[Dayspring]

No. you tune it once, maybe twice till it stops leaking and that's it. I'm using the same setup in my Xmag that I've had for over a year now. I changed carriers twice, and that's within the first week of ownership.

You use the SAME oring in the carrier.

[firespyer]

Dayspring & Dryden you are my personal heros!!!

i put in the correct carrier after i finally got the bad one out, strip screw worked like a charm.

I only have a small leak when i squeze the trigger, but i think thats cause there is not enough air left in my tank to fire.

[Dayspring]

Don't be surprised that in a few hundred shots that it leaks again. That's the oring wearing in.