Spyder Mag

[Ronin Baller]

Must be that low-quality Air America junk I use...
Seriously though, the gauges are around 8 years old; I guess it's time to replace them.

[tonybhall]

***Update, Daniel is getting his PC back this evening and may be back online as early as tonight or tomorrow. I will defer any future comments concerning this mod to him unless he asks me to field any questions. Thanks everyone for your interests.

[Backyard Bandit]

Could somebody PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE copy paste the original article on the spyder mag or email it to [email protected] or something!!! My P.O.S. computer will NOT load it, but I am desperate to see if I could do it myself! PLZ!!!

[tonybhall]

Could somebody PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE copy paste the original article on the spyder mag or email it to [email protected] or something!!! My P.O.S. computer will NOT load it, but I am desperate to see if I could do it myself! PLZ!!!

Here is a link to the first thread. http://www.pbnation.com/showthread.p...hreadid=533969

here is the description of the process.

Hey Guys,

Here is a brief description of what was done. I will give you more when I have the time or Daniel will post up when his computer is fixed.

The only Mag part that had to be modified was the sear. A mech mag sear has a trigger rod attached to it. This rod has to be removed since it will not be used. It comes off without any tools.
THen the bottom of the mag sear has to be milled down so that it will work with the spyder frame. once you look at the two, it's pretty easy to see what needs to be done.

There are a couple of mods to the spyder trigger frame as well.

First, you have drill a hole inside the trigger gaurd for the front frame screw. This is were the trigger frame attaches to the mag.

Second, the mag rail has a little post that sticks out and helps hold the mag trigger frame in place. You will need to drill out a hole in the spyder trigger frame for this post to go into.

Third, you will have to dremmel out a channel in the back of the spyder trigger frame for the mag sear to fit into.

Last, you will have to modify the part of the spyder trigger frame that will actually activate the sear. Daniel cut this peice and the sear both at an angle so that they fit together. So, when the spyder trigger frame trigger is pulled, it just slightly pushes against the sear. With a ULT trigger pull on/off valve, it only takes the slightest pressure to fire the mag.

He has not tried this with a regular on/off valve and does recommend using a ult trigger on/off valve because of how little force it takes to activate it.

Once mine is done I will try to get some pics up of the modifications.

Hope this was helpfull.

[Backyard Bandit]

Thanks, tonybhall. I think I could do that. Can't like a regular drill press or hand drill be turned into a mill/dremel? If he gets some pictures of modifying milling the thing that activates the sear or milling the chanel in the back of the spyder frame for the sear and someone with a less crappy computer would post them I'd be gratefull. Could someone on pbnation PM him and ask for pictures for me?

[budhall088]

Yeah man, seombody definitely needs to put up some pictures of how the sear goes into the frame, what is done to the frame, and really anything you've modified. I've got the front of the frame cut off, and drilled the hole to mount the frame to the Mag. I just can't figure out where the channel needs to be cut or how the sear for the Mag goes into the frame. Do I leave the Spyder frame sear in? I would really like to know some more details about it, because if I take the Spyder sear out of the frame, the Mag sear is nowhere near the inside of the frame where it would need to be. I just want some pics of everything you've modded if that's possible please.

[Bobsbarricades]

has anybody done this with a regular on/off valve?

[budhall088]

Well, I;m trying to. I can't finish it until I get some pictures!!!! lol, This is the only thing holding me back. I just wanna get this done so I can say I have an electro-mag.

[tonybhall]

Update

********NEW UPDATE**********

I talked to Daniel today. I gave him the stuff to do the mod on my mag. He plans to take pics of each step of the process and post them here when he is done. He said he wanted to post the pics from mine because he thought he could do a better job on it now that he knows exactly what he is doing. He should be done in a few days. Expect an update from him with new pics and video by in about a week.

Also, I shot his today. It is so much faster than it was when we shot the video. He did a modification to the micro switch making it a lighter trigger pull. Now, out running the stock board in the spyder trigger frame is childs play. We will have to get a T-board and see how fast we can get it up to.

Thanks for everyone's patients.

[AkumA]

tony -
does your mag have a classic valve or retro?

just curious if the mod is possible with classic valves.

thanks

[tonybhall]

update 2
another update.....

I realized that I omited one step in my description of this mod. It has now been updated and can be seen on the first page of

http://www.pbnation.com/showthread....975#post5851975

[tonybhall]

tony -
does your mag have a classic valve or retro?

just curious if the mod is possible with classic valves.

thanks

My Mag has an X-Valve. We have not tried it on a classic. Here are our thoughts on that.

There are a couple of reasons that this might not work or might not work as well on a classic. First, the mags we are doing this to have the ULT which means a much lighter trigger pull than the stock on/off. We are not sure if the spyder trigger frame has the power to fire a mag with the stock on/off. Even if it does, we believe that it will not be as fast and will run the battery down much faster. Also, we are not sure if the classic valve will keep up with the ROF that will be possible with this mod. We have already outrun the stock board in the spyder trigger frame which is capped at 13bps. I don't think the classic was disigned to recharge that fast. I could be wrong.

If you put a ULT in your classic, that will help. But I still think that you will be shooting faster than your valve will recharge. But if you left the stock spyder board it, you would be limited to 13 bps. If you don't put out long streams of paint at that ROF you would probably be ok.

Hope that helps.

[AkumA]

my friend has got his ULT down pretty well on his classic, so thats why i was pretty sure of ULT working on classics.

i wouldn't mind attaining 13+bps. i'd probly end up shaving the double trigger to a single (running and holding the frame while running is a lot easier).

plus im a pumper, i save balls and my bigest pet peeve is short stroking.

...

so thinking about what i just posted, i probly answered my own question if the ULT tuned correctly in a classic, this should work.

[tonybhall]

so thinking about what i just posted, i probly answered my own question if the ULT tuned correctly in a classic, this should work.

I would agree. You will also need a level 10 if you don't already have one.

[AkumA]

I would agree. You will also need a level 10 if you don't already have one.

now...if i where to use a fast enough loader, would a lvl10 be nessesary? since the frame would nearly eliminate short stroking, and as long as theres a ball in the breech when the gun is to be fired, there shouldn't be a need for a lvl10.

i've seen my friend go without a lvl10 with no chops.