Lvl 10 Tuning Problems

[warbeak2099]

Ok, here's the deal. I'm trying to tune my lvl 10 and I'm having trouble with the carriers. I'm stuck between the #1 carrier (one line, no dot) and the #1.5 carrier (one line, one dot). The #1 carrier does not leak, but it doesn't let the marker fire. It has insane bolt stick. I literally can't get any shots off with it. Go to the next size carrier right? Well, the #1.5 gets rid of most of the bolt stick but it leaks down the barrel like nuts. I've oiled the white orings that sit inside the carriers and this still happens. Also, I have a ULT with 4 shims. Maybe that does something. What do I do?????

Pete

[Dayspring]

Have you tried using shims in the Level 10 setup? Have you oiled it? Did you try turning up the velocity on the 1.0 carrier?

[trains are bad]

You're using the same oring in both carriers right?

[silentdeath55]

Take the ULT out and tune the level 10 with the stock on/off. Once that is fully tuned, put the ULT back in and tune it. That is the easiest was to troubleshoot if the problem comes from the LX or the ULT.

[warbeak2099]

Dayspring: I'm using 2 shims in the lvl 10 setup. I have oiled it as stated before. I have not touched the velocity. If I turn the velocity up on the smaller #1 carrier, will that eliminate bolt stick?

Trains Are Bad: I am using two different o-rings in the carriers. I'll try interchanging them.

silentdeath55: I don't have a stock on/off. I ordered my RT Custom with the ULT installed.

Thanks,

Pete

[Dayspring]

What you have isn't "bolt stick" per-se. It's too much friction. Turn up the velocity and see if it fires.

[warbeak2099]

K, I oiled the white o-ring, put the #1 carrier in with the oiled o-ring and turned the velocity up. The trigger would still push back on the sear rod but nothing happens. I then turned the velocity up more. Still nothing. I kept turning it up and trying until I could turn the velocity screw clockwise no more. Now is that bolt stick or the ULT?

EDIT: I got it to work without leaking with the 1.5 carrier. But the bolt doesn't reset all the way after each shot, I have to push it back about 1mm after every shot. More shims?

EDIT Again: I put another shim in, and now when I pull back on the trigger really quickly (almost like flicking back), it works more often but still sticks a lot. But when I pull all the way back on the trigger it doesn't fire... oooh, now it's doing something else. Now it won't fire no matter what. The sear rod is moving forward really slow. My tank is exactly at 1000psi. Could I need more gas?

[warbeak2099]

Nevermind! Woopee! I fixed it! I got rid of the stick by putting the red spring in and turning the velocity up a little. I shot about 200-300 rounds through it and the gun stopped working when my tank dipped to about 400-500psi. But man, this gun rocks! I've never shot a mech that's as fast or as fun to shoot as this mag! The ult and the lvl 10 work like a charm! Agghhh I'm so happy I didn't get an impy! I love this gun!!!

My only concern, is will I be able to fire 250fps with the red spring? I play indoor speedball at a field that allows up to 250-260fps. The setup won't work with the short gold spring. Maybe it can (I'll have to tweak with that when I get more gas), but it works best with the red spring. Oh well, my field is opening an outdoor field, maybe I'll have some luck with that. Thanks all!!!!!!!!!

Pete

[Dayspring]

Yes, you can run the red spring indoors. I do it all the time.

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Woo Hoo!!!! another happy magger

[warbeak2099]

Damn right I'm a happy magger! Especially now that I know I don't have to screw around with different springs when I play indoor and outdoor. My mag is tuned, my Qloader works... I have closure now!