On/Off pin sticking *OUT*

[Scandalon]

(I've searched and waded through 70 posts, to no avail. Feel free to point me to the info if I missed it)

Used xmag, lvl 10, stock afaik. It was sent into AGD a long time ago and the star punched.

I finally got the mag tuned and up and running, shooting right near 280fps, etc. Took to field, streamed 50 or so balls, and was happy. Started snap-shooting practice, gun stopped firing. No air noise, could hear solenoid click, tried manual selection. Grumbled, took hopper off and let ball in chamber out, seemed to work. Tried again, soon stopped firing again. Couldn't remove valve/body, had to unscrew front frame screw. Discovered that the on/off pin (I think that's it's name, the pin the sear actually pushes against to redirect the air...) was sticking out. I believe I remember this was one of the problems that made me ignore the mag for so long in the first place...

Later when troubleshooting, had a couple times where the pin would stick again. Pushing it in would have no effect, no shooting, no air leaking, nothing. The pin would just pop back out. To remove the valve I had to disconnect the air, (pin still out, no shooty) then hold the pin in while slowly backing out the valve assembly, which would then vent the remaining air.

Since then, with it assembled again, it appears to work fine, but haven't been able to test w/ paint yet, and I'm afraid it'll do it again when I do. Anyone have any ideas?

(And of course, I've got a tourney this weekend. Looks like I may be using my CCM pump.

[deadeye9]

The quad o-ring (at the base of the on/off pin), and the on/off assembly needs to be well oiled. You can also try turning off the ACE. Adjusting the ACE is described in the manual:

http://www.airgun.com/xmag/html/ace.html

[Scandalon]

I suppose it may have just taken longer for the oil I put in the ASA longer to get to the internals, maybe that's why it stopped? No ACE, btw. Thanks though.

[cphilip]

You can remove a valve thats on off pin is sticking out by dissasembling the grip frame and taking it off of it and lifting the body off the rail. Take the Grip frame screw and the field strips screw out.... Bleed all the air out of the valve before you do this.

[VR4SL]

Couple things to check:

-pull out the on/off and remove the pin. Roll it on a glass table- is it bent? If not, clean and oil the on/off assembly- LIBERALLY.

-With the valve removed, pop off the left grip frame. Move the soleniod/sear assembly by hand- does it bind at any point? If so, you may have an underlying issue.

-Does the marker ALWAYS work in Manual, and sometimes be tempermental in E Modes? If so, you may have a sear adjustment issue, an ACE issue, or both. Electircal problem also possible, but very unlikely.


If you end up not being able to figure it out, and need addtional help, PM me. If need be, I can fix it for you if you dont want to use your second star. I have long been a high-end marker tech and have rebuilt MANY X-Mags from the ground up... havent had one stump me yet!

[Scandalon]

cphilip - That's exactly what I had to do - remove the two screws (fieldstrip and body) and lift up the body. Then I had to push the pin in, since otherwise it would hit up against the body, since it sticks through a hole in said body, so the sear can touch it. It wasn't until after pulling the valve out slightly though that the gas would vent. (I suppose, technically, I could have pulled the pin out, but that didn't seem like a good idea, seeing as how there might have been pressure behind it...

VR4SL - thanks for the tips, I'm pretty sure the sear/solenoid isn't binding, the pin could quite possibly be bent, what with the body tugging on it and all. As I said in the original post, manual didn't seem to fix it, and again, no ACE. It's an older e-mag, purple/blue fade (which I gather may be somewhat rare?).

Thanks all!

[Tunaman]

If the pin wont go all the way in in Manual mode to get the valve out, just push the trigger rod in a little more with a small screwdriver or something similar. It will pop right out.

[Scandalon]

Well, it looks like that took care of it... when I pulled out the on/off assembly, there was a small amount of what looked like some dirt/gunk at the bottom (top, technically) of the on/off chamber. None of the o-rings looked particularly dirty, but I cleaned and oiled all of them. I also adjusted the trigger and cleaned the paint out of the mode buttons and...

Anyway, I ran almost a hopper through (waaay too fast only problem is I left out the detent, so saw a couple double feeds before chopping (!). Now to figure out why my level 10 failed. (It works on pens, fingers, etc. - may just need to switch to a heavier spring...) And also track down a replacement safety spring... did I mention this gun was used?!?

Tunaman - thanks - obvious in retrospect.