sticking bolt?

[gulf]

I am new to mag's so I might just be over looking something but.
Bought a used mag of ebay. ULE body, minimag valve, LX and benchmark frame, I'm ruining it on CO2. It worked fine for about 500 shots last week then I go to play my first game and I take a couple of shots and I start pissing CO2 out the barrel. I replaced the orings in the on/off and oiled the piss out of everything and it didn't get better, than I started to play with the LX with differnt shims and carriers and now I'm farther off then when I started but I still get some bolt stick after a couple shots that hasn't changed since I had the problem regardless of what I do. Any ideas. thanks

[VFX_Fenix]

Apparently the ULE body suffers from some Flexing issues, if you tool down your strip screw lightly you should eliminate this problem, at least according to somone on this forum that knows more about this than I do.

[gulf]

What do you mean by tool down.

[VFX_Fenix]

using a hex wrench to snug the strip screw down. Apparently the ULE bodies are sensetive to different torques on the body screws and causes them to warp slightly which can lead to bolt stick. Another though, have you tried turning up the velocity nut? I've noticed that my Mag's bolt will stick when I first run paint through it if the Reg isn't set up high enough.

[gulf]

I think you are right about the strip screw I put a straight edge along the top of the valve and ule body and when I tighten the strip screw and check again the valve has moved lower than the body. Is this something that I will develop a feel for. This would make cence because it worked fine when I got it but after I cleaned it that's when the problems started. I'll check in the mourning and try to recreate the problem with differn't torque's on the strip screw. thanks

[gulf]

I've tried to tighten the screws down to get a good alignment on the bolt and it doesn't seem to make it better.
I've been trying differnt bolt oring carriers and springs and I can get it to reset with the longest spring but I don't know my FPS and wont untill sunday. I'm still getting a little leaking from the bolt when I put a little pressure on the bolt or after a couple of shots. If anyone has any ideas to weather I just need to keep adjusting my bolt or if I have a bigger problem. thanks

[VFX_Fenix]

put in the medium spring and turn up your velocity nut until your mag will shoot consistantly again. EDIT - The reason I say this is if the mag has enough pressure to cylce the bolt once or even twice successfully then hang on the next shot my guess is that the valve isn't recharging completely and starving. By turning up the Velocity nut you should be able to stop this from happening and be able to shoot consistantly. Also, if you find that the bolt sticks when you shoot over the chrono and you start shooting hot while still sticking then you'll need to go up a carrier size until you can chrono, shoot all the time, and still not have the thing leak.

[gulf]

I tried a larger carrier and it leaked I can go back to the regular spring and try to turn up my velocity but I was at 285 before. I think that I need to install an anti-siphon in my tank. I have a hunch that because it only happens after I shoot a string it is because of liquid co2 in the valve. If there was a place to get HPA local I'd try that but there isn't. thanks

[CaliMagFan]

link in my sig for most of the tech Qs thats you're bringing up here..... hope that helps and post your results...

-kyro

[gulf]

anti-siphon

I think I fixed my problem by installing an antisiphon tube in my tank. The bolt isn't working perfectly it leaks when I have a little pressure on the trigger but it isn't having issues with the bolt like before. I think the way the gun was set up I was getting liquid co2 in the gun. I'll find out sunday when I play it it's fixed. thanks

[gulf]

Mag worked awsome today. Thanks to all that responded. It turned out that I was getting liquid co2 in the valve because with the anti-siphon it workes great.