Level 10 tuning

[Carbon Blue]

hey guys whats up!? i just bought an xvalve and im currently tuning it right now
i started off with the biggest carrier and it leaked alot of air down the barrel. So i moved down and down until i reached the 2.5 carrier which stopped the leaking. I fired the mag and one shot would go off but the other would chuff and i could see the bolt only go half way. I installed 2 shims just like the manual said and it started leaking again down the barrel. I took one shim out and the leak is now gone. But when i pull the trigger one shot goes off and the other one chuffs and then its able to fire again.

I have the intelliframe, and a preset ACI Bulldog 2 800psi output tank, I have a 68ci 4500 adjustable on the way.

How do i adjust the velocity on this thing? hahaha do i stick the allen wrench down the back all the way in or 1/4 in only?

[Titansu]

How does the 2.5 carrier fit on your bolt stem? It should be snug - not too tight, not too loose. I think I might be at a 1 or a 1.5 carrier. 2 shims are good to start.

Velocity: 1/8 allen in the back of the valve. Clockwise = higher, counterclock = lower.

This link may help you: http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

[Carbon Blue]

the 2.5 fits snugly onto the stem. It doesnt slide freely but it will not slide off if i hold the bolt upside down. thanks

[Carbon Blue]

ok took the shim out now it fires fine but it doesnt make the pfffft noise when i use a pen wrapped in cloth to block the bolt. it just acts like a normal bolt . I tried the 3 carrier but it leaks down the barrel. thanks again titansu

[Carbon Blue]

Update

i just have the 2.5 carrier in the gun with no shims. it shoots fine but of course!!! i run out of air!!! I have the longest spring in there. When i was shooting it would work fine (about 600psi in the tank) i know i should have atleast 850psi but some air would vent out the back of the valve and i would turn it clockwise yes clockwise and it would go away. Any input on that? Is there a preferred way of testing my level 10 so i know it doesnt chop? im out of paintballs.

[athomas]

Stick a squeegie in the front of the body against the bolt and fire the gun. You will be able to feel the amount of force of the bolt. If you feel comfortable that it is light, then you can put your finger in the breach against the bolt and pull the trigger.

It a leak out the back can be fixed by increasing the velocity then, perhaps you have a piece of dirt in there. Try cleaning it.

Using the longest bolt spring may yield the softest bolt, but it also gives you less room for operational error. If any of the parameters change, such as loss of bolt lubrication, a low pressure chamber recharge, or a small piece of debris, the gun may chuff or not fire at all. You should probably use the middle spring, especially when breaking the carrier o-ring in.

[Carbon Blue]

before i take the valve apart do any of the parts need to be replaced if i open the valve? For example if i take my level 7 bolt and unscrew both ends the regulator seat would need to be replaced, is there anything of that sort that relates to the xvalve? Everytime i put shims in it only works every other shot, do i really need those shims in there? is there purpose to adjust the level 10?? thanks for any info

[Titansu]

Shim adjustments
Put a squeegee right in front of the bolt and pull the trigger. With very little clearance between the bolt and squeegee you will notice that the bolt comes forward and just stops on the squeegee. Then nothing else happens. Pulling the trigger does nothing to reset the bolt. In order to get the bolt to reset when it pinches a ball, we have to let the air out of the air chamber. The shims control where in the forward stroke the air chamber starts venting. Its works a lot like the spacers in the original Mags. We left them out before so you could tell the difference between a carrier leak and a shim leak.



If you are able to vent the air chamber w/out the use of shims, then great. You don't have to use them.

[Carbon Blue]

Stick a squeegie in the front of the body against the bolt and fire the gun. You will be able to feel the amount of force of the bolt. If you feel comfortable that it is light, then you can put your finger in the breach against the bolt and pull the trigger.

It a leak out the back can be fixed by increasing the velocity then, perhaps you have a piece of dirt in there. Try cleaning it.

Using the longest bolt spring may yield the softest bolt, but it also gives you less room for operational error. If any of the parameters change, such as loss of bolt lubrication, a low pressure chamber recharge, or a small piece of debris, the gun may chuff or not fire at all. You should probably use the middle spring, especially when breaking the carrier o-ring in.

what do u mean less room for operational error?

[FlawleZ]

Here's a LV10 problem for you guys:

OK, I've got a Classic RT that I've already tuned a LV 10 perfectly for so I'm halfway experienced to say the least. I just got through building a classic PF mag from the ground up (nothing special, just a good backup gun). Anyway, I got a used LV 10 with the valve and pretty much everything came with it. I started with the standard 2.5 carrier that everyone starts on but it was too loose. So I went down to the 1.5. Too loose. I'm on the 0 size carrier and it fits "ok." It won't slide off if I hold the bolt upside down. I'm using 2 shims currently and it STILL LEAKS. It leaks down the barrel as if the carrier was too big. I've checked the shims and they are ok (no serious bends, creases). The rings are fine and all are oiled. Marker shoots fine just leaks a bit down the barrel. It does stop when I hold the trigger down. I've already tried backing out my velocity screw to relieve some pressure but it doesn't seem to help. I've fired approx 75-100 shots and the gun still leaks. I'm wondering what I could be doing wrong? Everything is installed as should be and I'm on the smallest carrrier.

Any input, ideas are welcome. Thanks guys.

[athomas]

The operational error I was refering to has to with the many variables that can change during the operating of the gun. Pressures can vary. Pieces of paint can get into the mechanism. Lubrication can get blown off or worn off. All these can change the amount of force required to push the bolt forward. By using the longest spring you have reduced that amount of force differential between the bolt spring and the chamber pressure at which the gun will fire. Its that lower pressure differential that makes the bolt soft on paint. The downside, is that any further increases in force required to push the bolt could exceed the amount of force available in the chamber. At that point, you would pull the trigger and nothing would happen, or the gun would chuff as soon as the bolt started to push the ball. By moving to the middle spring, you increase the pressure differential. Any variances in required bolt force are still within the operating range of the preset chamber pressure.

Once the carrier o-ring is broken in, you would have reduced one of the biggest variances. It is much easier to tune your gun to operate with the longest spring once this is done. Until then, I would recommend using the middle spring.

[athomas]

FlawleZ: Remove the shims from your powertube and see if that helps.

[FlawleZ]

FlawleZ: Remove the shims from your powertube and see if that helps.

I've tried that. I've tried no shims, 1 shim, 2 shims, 3 shims, and 4 shims. All of which leaked, some more than others.

Thanks though.

[Rift]

have you tried replacing the powertube o-ring if you have one? if not try taking out the carrier whiping away any oil on it and putting it back in. When you put it back in only put a small drop of oil on the carrier o-ring dont put any on the power tube o-ring doing so is gonna cause a false sence of fricton and when the oil is gone it could lead to other problems. .

[FlawleZ]

have you tried replacing the powertube o-ring if you have one? if not try taking out the carrier whiping away any oil on it and putting it back in. When you put it back in only put a small drop of oil on the carrier o-ring dont put any on the power tube o-ring doing so is gonna cause a false sence of fricton and when the oil is gone it could lead to other problems. .

Never thought of that but it couldn't hurt to try it...