Problem with regulator...

[MinimagRockin']

I have a palmers stabalizer and I run co2. In cool weather if I shoot a long string (hence making the gun really cold) and then wait awhile before shooting (warming the gun up) the next shot will be extremely brutal, usually breaking the ball in the barrel. This is very annoying after games when the gun is cold and then starting up a new game and you bust a ball on the first shot. I don't think this is supposed to be happening though, what might fix this terrible problem?

[This message has been edited by MinimagRockin' (edited 08-29-2001).]

[Mag89]

while u r waiting for it to warm up pull and hold down the trigger to let the o-rings warm up also long strings r hard to do with co2 without freezing the gun.

[krafty]

OK, here's what I think is happening:

After you've played for a while, the co2 entering the mag is very cold. When you set the gun down between games, this co2 warms up, increasing the pressure within the chamber. When you grab the gun to fire your first shot of the new game, this higher pressure gas forces the bolt forward so hard you break a ball.

Solutions:
1) go nitro. (This is the 1st answer most people will give you here, so why break with tradition? )
2) degas the gun between games. This way, when you gas up the gun to play again, the gas is back to "normal" temperature. Use a slide check or a proconnect between your tank and your regulator, then just vent the gas out of the gun after your post-game chrono session.

I run remote, and more for convenience than anything else I pop off my hose between games. I don't know if you're running remote, but otherwise, we're running the same setup. I use a stabilizer on my minimag's vertical ASA.

Just some thoughts... I may be completely off base, but what the heck.

krafty


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Purple Minimag
with some stuff attached to it

[This message has been edited by krafty (edited 08-29-2001).]

[alf]

krafty is right...

it works for him, it works for me

i have a remote that i disconnect between games, (actually i only connect it on the field, and disconnect it when im out), and ive never had this problem...a proconnect costs about $40+ from bbtpaintball.com, and a slide check/quick disconnect is a lil cheaper (i think)

[MinimagRockin']

Thanks guys, I just won a remote on ebay a couple of days ago so hopefully that should help. Also I'm not sure what a slide check does, and can you buy them separately because the remote I'm getting doesn't come with one.

[The Mad Painter]

slide checks run from 10-20 dollars. depends on who makes them. they attach right into your air line, between say a 90 degree fitting and your hose. when your done, you slide it back, and it degasses the gun, but leaves air in the hose. then when you need air, slide it forward, and it gases back up. great little device. i run a palmer female stabilizer on angled dropforward. never had the mentioned problems, or shootdown, or freezing. sure HPA would be a quick and semi-expensive fix, but what you have should work just fine.

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Midwest Highschool Paintball League
Team Captain, ?????

"The Mad Painter"
CF 61270
Z-Body Left PF
12 Volt Revy
12.5" Bob Long Signature Series Aluminum Barrel
Stock 2x Trigger / Smart Parts Wood Grips
Palmer Female Stabilizer

[MinimagRockin']

That's what I'm thinking...how do you guys tune the reg in comparison to the mags velocity adjuster, I think this might possibly be part of the problem if I am setting them wrong.

[krafty]

I followed the instructions that came with the Stabilizer. I think it was...

Turn the velocity on the mag all the way up (or to 350 fps), connect the stabilizer and slowly back off on the Stab until you're at 300, then use the mag regulator to fine tune. Or something like that. The instructions are on Palmer's website. http://www.palmer-pursuit.com/techpage(s)/stabinst.htm Right there!

krafty


[This message has been edited by krafty (edited 08-31-2001).]