Just got my RT ULE Custom but it's not reactive...

[jenner]

I've been a mag owner for years. Started with a Minimag about 10 years ago and it's now my backup after having an Angel Speed and Flatline A-5 that I didn't care for(both are for sale BTW!), I decided to get an RT ULE Custom to complement my tried and true Minimag.

When I ordered it I had AGD send it with the ULE Trigger Pull mod installed.

I screwed in my HPA Pure Energy 88cu/4.5k 800psi preset tank and played with it. Trigger pull was nice, but no reactivity as I expected. When I ordered it, I had them include a stock on/off valve for this reason.

So I took off the tank, took out the X valve and swapped the ULE on/off for the stock on/off.

Put the tank back on and it was shooting like full auto non stop. I figured something must be wrong here, so I looked at the exploded valve guide and it looked like I was missing an o-ring on the stock on/off. I just had a tiny one at the top and it looked like I was missing a slightly larger one.

So I took one of the right size off the ULE on/off and put it on the stock on/off. Put the tank back on and it shoots fine, EXCEPT I have no reactivity. If I try to sweet spot the trigger, it doesn't do anything special...

Am I doing something wrong, or do I need to give it 850+ psi in order to see any form of reactivity cause I have NONE!

Hoping Zak Vetter or someone of the same knowledge can give me some good info. I was under the impression that it was called the RT because the trigger was somewhat reactive out of the box.

Thanks!!

[Z-man]

You called?

Your most telling piece of information is that you are using a preset tank. While you should get some kick back from the stock RT on/off, the KEY to getting the kind of reactivity you want is the input pressure and the how high flow the tank reg is.

Now speaking practically here is what I would do:

1- Check and confirm that you do in fact have the correct O-rings and parts installed on your on/off assembly. I hear people putting in a ULT shim or 2 in their stock on/off and all sorts of oddball stuff so clear up that you have your valving squared away.

2- See if you can get your hands on an adjustable tank system. Borrow one or ask if you can plug one in at a PB store. I think you will find that a high end adjustable 4500 reg and a little input pressure (900+) you will have everything you ever wanted.

3- Now it's all well and good for me to suggest you just go get a new tank but that is expensive. Though the properly setup ULT on/off assembly will not bounce, but as you may have read, the ULT can be made to bounce much like the stock RT. Unlike the stock on/off, the ULT can bounce with a preset tank. The difference also is that you cannot, not make it bounce, unless you remove the shims.

Remember that the RT bounce can get you DQed in a tourney if you or the refs can get the thing to fire 2x per pull (even if it's SUPER hard to do). I hope this offers some directions and if I did not answer anything please ask again.

[jenner]

1. Stock on/off IS setup right...

2. I already have an 88cu 4500 tank. If I bought a smart parts max flow, and screwed that into the top of the tank in place of my current setup, would that give me the reactivity I seek? Right now the gun only fires on a trigger pull. Nothing special happens if I try to hold it half way. It just never resets, and sometimes it will leak a little if I hold it at the wrong point. There is no bounce or reactiveness.

3. I put all the shims on and all the shims off on the ULE trigger pull on/off. All shims off didn't fire, all shims (6 total) on worked as normal. Your wording was confusing so I tried both. Is it possible for me to get any level of bounce or reactiveness with either on/off and my 800preset pure engery tank?

I don't play tourny so I'm not worried about any DQ's or anything. This is an open play woodsball/scenario marker for me.


Thanks Z!

[jenner]

Looking at getting a maxflow to add to my tank or getting an entire maxflow setup.

Will this give me the full auto like reactivity I seek?

[Z-man]

Sorry about the delay there. The ULT should get reactive when you start over shimming the assembly. This means that if the stock, properly functioning on/off has 4 shims, put in 5, then 6, then 7 if needed. It should get reactive on you,


As for the Max-Flo question, you could simply replace your tank reg with the Max-Flo one or get the tank but adding a Max-Flow linie reg into the system will not be what you want to do. The Max-Flo would still be limited by the preset reg and would only help to starve the RT valve.

[jenner]

Thanks for the reply...

I'm still lost. I was under the impression that the stock on/off has ZERO shims. If you look at the exploded valve view, there are no shims shown. Are we talking about the same thing here?

I am planning to replace the stock reg on my Pure Energy tank with a maxflow manifold reg, but I only want to spend the $300 if it will get me the reactivity I have seen in your video.

I don't want to get the maxflow and still have it perform the same as it is now, ie one pull one shot, only way to shoot faster is to fan it.

[Z-man]

The ULT mod does use shims just like the lvl 10. and just like the lvl 10 each ULT may need 1 or 2 or 3 more or less shims than the next ULT. That is why AGD gives you a few so you can get it tuned right. So setp 1 is to get it working properly (1.e. you can pull the trigger and there is ZERO bounce). From there start adding shims (testing it out each time you add a shim). Make sence?


As for the reg I would suggest you look at getting a Max-Flo system used. The old 2 step style setups can be had for uner $200 with a tank to boot. It's FAR cheaper to get a used one. Heck get one that's almost or is out of hydro for a bargain price and swap the taks if you dont want to hydro it.

I would not want to spend $300 either.

[jenner]

Ok we are having a total disconnect here...

If you re-read my above post I said stock on/off.

On your website you even have a paragraph that says:
Things You DON'T Want / Won't Help At All
The ULE Trigger. It's a quality item like most AGD stuff, but it all but KILLS the reactivity of the RT valve. I spent some time messing with a ULT equipped X-Valve and my Max-Flo, but I was not able to coax any bounce out of it.

Right now I have tried the STOCK on/off, the ULE Trigger on/off as it shipped from AGD (4 shims) and the ULE Trigger with 6 shims on.

In all three cases I have nothing I would call reactive.

Questions for you:

1) If I use the STOCK on/off in my X-Valve, in conjunction with a maxflow at 900psi, will this give me the ability to hold the trigger and get the 20+bps bursts like your video? Or is there something else that needs to be done?

2) where do you suggest getting a used maxflow? I looked on eBay and couldn't find anything good.

I found a new maxflow manifold online for $225 and was going to grab that. I think I'd rather get a new one than deal with rebuilding a used one. I don't mind spending the $200-$300 I just don't want to spend it if it won't do what I want.

If you can get on AIM now. It might be easier to chat than go back and forth here

[Carbon Blue]

im still trying to decide whether i should keep my reacitivty with high ROF and hi input psi, or go with a lighter trigger pull run less of a input pressure and save some air? but then again air only cost about 1$ per 1000psi

I had an ACI Bulldog 2 preset at 800psi and all it cost me was about 6-7$ of air per day of play. I now have a 68ci 4500psi Maxflo set at about 850-900psi. I shoot about 1150-1200balls in about a 7-8 hour period and thats with about 4 games of speedball and the rest is woodsball. Anyone know how much of an increase in $$$ i will be spending on air now? the local field is closed and nothing is close by.

[warbeak2099]

I get a hint of reactivity with my ULT. I've got 5 shims on there and I'm running an 800-850psi preset Nitro Duck. I'm definately going to get an adjustable tank soon. I know all regs are different, but let's say with an AA geddon cranked up to 1000psi will I be able to get full reactivity with my ULT seeing as it already gets some at 800psi?

[Carbon Blue]

I get a hint of reactivity with my ULT. I've got 5 shims on there and I'm running an 800-850psi preset Nitro Duck. I'm definately going to get an adjustable tank soon. I know all regs are different, but let's say with an AA geddon cranked up to 1000psi will I be able to get full reactivity with my ULT seeing as it already gets some at 800psi?

yes i would think so, try adding another shim in there and you might get what your looking for

[warbeak2099]

Excellent. I just added a 6th shim and I'm getting a little more bounce. Once I get an adjustable... yay.