Air leaking and LX question and a few more

[Boydster]

I put in a Reactor valve into my Classic valve and now I hear air leak down the barrel when I hold the trigger. Please help me locate the source. Could it be the two orings that go between the two on/off peices? They looked fine but they were used by the person that had this before me.
EDIT: This only occurs when I hold the trigger down. When I let go it becomes normal again.

One other qustion. I put a lvl ten bolt in and it still hits my finger pretty hard.(Definitely hard enough to break a ball.) I have the red spring in which is second from longest. That was the largest I could get in and still have it fire. Is this a shim issue? I have two in there presently.

oops, one more. I shot my gun today to test the Reactor on/off. (I have a level ten in also.) Sometimes it would fire and sometimes (I think it's called-->) boltstick would occur. About 700 psi was remaining in the tank. Is it a low tank problem? I know the lvl ten requires plenty of air to operate right but if it's not a low tank problem, what else would cause this? Two shots would go off then I'd get a bolt stick. Then two more good ones...

Just bought this on eBay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWN:IT
It says it's for an RT but I have a Classic. The guy said it can be used on a classic but something needs to be done. What is that?

Thanks.

[mag88888]

add some shims to your level 10. ONE at a time. unscrew the field strip screw. hold the trigger down while you take the valve out. take the bolt off, it just slides off. take powertube tip off, coin or wrench, i used adjustable wrench. drop in one shim at a time. then reassemble. gas up and test it. if it still sticks then add another shim. ask if you need more help.

[Boydster]

Add shims until it leaks, right? Will more shims make the bolt hit with less force?

What do I do about the leak when I hold the trigger down?

[autockr01]

When you pull the trigger to fire the gun, the sear closes the on/off and releases the bolt so it can fire. So basically, when you are holding the trigger down, the air is being stopped at the on/off. If it is leaking while you are holding the trigger down, it has nothing to do with your LX. So it must be the on/off. Try oiling your on/off orings. Have you tried to put the stock on/off in there to see if it leaks??

Watch TK's video manual. He pretty much tells you everything you need to know about a classic mag and what to do if it leaks. If you dont have one, someone on ao must have a digital copy they can send u.

[autockr01]

And no, adding more shims in the LX won't make it hit with less force.

[Boydster]

I'll try oiling the orings again and make sure they're in good condition.

What can I do to adjust it to where I can get the longest spring in? The LX CD maunal said I need to fine tune it to where I can get the longest in.

I remember something about a bushing when it comes to the RT grip frame. Do I already have a bushing in the gun or do I need to buy one?

Thanks.

[autockr01]

Just try to tune it to where you can get the middle spring to work. My LX has the middle spring in it and it works awesome! Basically, in order to tune your mag with a longer spring, you have to make sure you have the largest o-ring carrier in the powertube that does not leak. This is because you want the least amount of friction. For example, if you have the smallest carrier in there and you try to fire your mag, it probably wont fire because the friction between the powertube oring and the bolt is too great. So you want the largest carrier while still having an air tight marker. Then you just put on the middle spring. At this point, if your gun still doesnt fire, just turn up your velocity till it does. All done..

[Muzikman]

Ok, first off...take the reactor valve out and put the stock one back in. If you don't want to do that (which i think you should) your problem is most likely the two orings in the top of the on/off. (BTW, this is a classic valve right?)

As for the lvl10. How are you testing it? Are you putting your finger in and putting it against the bolt face? The bolt might not be hitting balls as hard as you think...unless you are actually chopping balls.

As for the bolt stick, does it happen when you have more air in your tank? I noticed with me RT with lvl10 I need to have atleast 800 psi in to the gun before it starts to act funny. If the is still a problem with more air, change to the next larger carrier but use the same oring. If this does not leak, then you are good.

[Boydster]

-Yes, Classic valve.

-Going to keep the Reactor in for a little while and see how I like it. I THINK it lightens the pull a little bit but it's hard to tell. I need to do a test between the two. I'll bring original with me to field just in case...

-I oiled the two orings on the Reactor and the leak went away.

-I read some in the lvl ten problems thread and then realized when I tested it, my pinky was as far away from the bolt as possible. That's why it hurt like ****... I did re-gas it up and whenever the gun did fire, it bounced right off of my finger. Not even enough to bend a dollar. Though I'm curious if that's because I only had 500psi left. I have to test it with a full tank to see if it's still that light.

-I've got the largest carrier in there that doesn't leak. At first I thought carriers were different in lengths. Now I know it's diameter or thickness, whatever you want to call it. The red spring is in and that leads to my next question....



Have a look at the springs in the new lvl ten package.
Now this is what I got.(Also where the Reactor came from) eBay
A close up of the springs is attached at the bottem. What springs do I have? I don't see a red spring in the new kit and I don't see a cut spring in the bundle I got. There also seems to be another short spring that came with mine that's not in the new kit. Did I get ripped or are these new and improved springs that now come with the kits? And no, one of those short ones are not stock. The stock spring is on my Level 7 bolt in a bag. Unless he gave me his... How could I tell?

Thanks for the help.

[autockr01]

You might want to get your tank refilled and check how the LX is. It should be fine though.

In my mag, i am currently using the red spring. And i believe the red spring is the middle length one. Did you say you do not have a red spring?? Well either way, just try to put the longest spring in there you can while still allowing the marker to fire reliably. You may have to turn your velocity up if you put in longer springs.

[Boydster]

Those are all mine. All the ones that came in the kit. The red one is the one that works out. The one to the left of it makes me turn the velocity up to where it starts venting. So you have the red one too? I guess it's normal then. But where is the spring that has a coil cut off? And where did this second small spring come from? Is that a normal one also?

Wait, let me put it this way. How many springs come with a brand new lvl ten package? 4 or 3. That link I gave only shows three.

[Rift]

3 springs come with the lvl x kit 1 long 1 medium and 1 small the small one is the standard size that has been used before the lvl x kit came out.

[Boydster]

Where the heck did these four come from then?

Can anyone tell which ones are the normal springs that originally came with the kit? Those four do not include the lvl 7 spring. The stock lvl 7 spring is packed away.

[Rift]

Id say the first 3 going from left to right seems that the first gold spring is a bit longer then the other one indicating it hasnt been used much if at all.

[Boydster]

Thanks. One last question that hasn't been answered yet. Is there supposed to be a cut spring? A spring with a coil cut off. I see and hear about that one all the time in the LX kit. Simply stated, what springs am I supposed to have if the guy sent me every part that originally came with his new lvl ten?