I found a SP MaxFlow 4500psi adjustable reg-only for what I feel is a very good price ($150 for last years drop model now that they came out with the in-line design). Is that a big deal to put it on my 68/4500 Java preset tank, myself? I swap regs & fittings all the time on CO2 steel tanks, using red locktite. Is there anything special to do with Carbon Fiber or must I absolutly take it to a "authorized installer" to get this done? Am I voiding the hydro test i f I do it myself? etc etc.
HPA reg swap a D.I.Y. project?
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Originally posted by urbansixI found a SP MaxFlow 4500psi adjustable reg-only for what I feel is a very good price ($150 for last years drop model now that they came out with the in-line design). Is that a big deal to put it on my 68/4500 Java preset tank, myself? I swap regs & fittings all the time on CO2 steel tanks, using red locktite. Is there anything special to do with Carbon Fiber or must I absolutly take it to a "authorized installer" to get this done? Am I voiding the hydro test i f I do it myself? etc etc.
You SHOULD be able to do it yourself, but for the love of god use a proper torque wrench and have it torqued to the proper level. I don't know what this is, but remember that it's much higher than with CO2, since you're dealing with MUCH higher pressures.
If you aren't already doing that with your CO2 tanks... maybe you should just take it somewhere.Automag RT-Pro
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I dunno...While I'm not sure about specs on a max flo.... if I remember right I think the torque on a flatline is 25 ft lbs. (don't quote me!) and the manual for my angel AIR says "hand torque only" so your best bet would be to find out for sure before you do it and DO NOT!!!! use loctite on the threads.Originally posted by 11_Mile_TMasterit's much higher than with CO2, since you're dealing with MUCH higher pressures.
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I wouldnt worry about torq in it. Once the tank has air in it, you will not be able to move it. you will need a strap wrench and big cressent wrench. make dam sure your tank is empty.Comment
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the good stuff
when you go to put the reg back onto the tank use a drop of red loc-tite.....aka high strength
loc-tite is your freind ... a little will go a mile ... dont go crazy with it and wait a full 24 hours before you will the tankComment
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I've done it and still do it. I don't sweat the torque. I only tighten my dynaflow hand tight, and for screw in regs just snug in down good in the vise with a strap wrench and 1/2" rachet. I never use loctite. But then I trust myself not to continue unscrewing the tank if it should come loose. Not that in ever would with pressure in it.Comment
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for the love of god use a proper torque wrenchDO NOT!!!! use loctite on the threadsI wouldnt worry about torquse a drop of red loc-tite...loc-tite is your freindI think I'm getting dizzyI don't sweat the torque...I never use loctite
...nevertheless - question answered - I think...Comment
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You must use lock-tite
I talk to an air smith yo must use it for it to be safe.
If you don't want to do it our self pm me."STAY OUT OF SMART PARTS SECTIONS.
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well I ALMOST got a $150 Maxflow and a $113 68/45 ($263 =not bad) at one online store, figuring it would be easier selling my preset with a tank on it, for the $113 at least. But then I found a armageddon for $199....so problem solved....all of them sounded like good deals. Preset will be for sale soon
thanks for the input tho !
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MindJob
I do this myself all the time.........
-Red or blue loc-tite will do
-I use a heat gun to loosen the existing loc-tite that is already on there
-Those cheapo Crafstman strap wrenches are useless on anything other than jar lids and oil filters. BUT, the ruber straps come in handy, I wrap the reg with it to protect it from the teeth on the vise-grips or MONSTER channel locks I use.
-Use a 'drop' of whatever lock tite you decide on
-make sure the o-ring that sits between the bottle and reg is in good condition. It would really suck to be you if you lock-tite a reg on a bottle, only to have it leak when you fill it.
Other than that, its pretty straight forward. Just use your head.Comment
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