Gun cant keep up.

[Virem]

Was talking about ULT shims... not lvl 10 shims

[Alpha]

ULT and Level 10 shims are one in the same. Lx's are just twice the thickness..

Anyways, your problem is exactly what I had for the last month (automagitis). I made my last post out of a printout that my local proshop wrote up for me when they helped me fix it.

[Virem]

My bolt isnt sticking... and im not having problems with my level 10, how is it the same? my gun wont fire if i add anymore shims to my ULT... to make it more reactive, to try to make its recharge rate faster, so that the gun can keep up.

[Virem]

I think i was reading your post wrong... i am so confused .. i think im using the cut spring... in my lvl 10

[Alpha]

If the gun won't fire, then its not in the ULT, its probably the bolt sticking. When teh bolt sticks, it doesn't go back all the way. Shot your gun real fast, adn when it refuses to fire when you pull the trigger, stick your finger in the chamber and push teh bolt back, or put a stick squeegie through the barrel, and push it all the way into the barrel until you hear a click.

If you get that click, that means its your bolt sticking.

Do you have the 3 springs that your bolt came with? Take one off your LEvel 10, and lay all the springs out.

Use the medium sized one, and fire it fast. IF that doesn't work, try the longest one..

If that doesn't work, I still have another solution. Just try to use a onger spring first.


The problem isn't in the ULT. Don't mess with the ULT yet. I made teh same mistake of doing that and screwed my gun up even more.

[Virem]

It dont have enough time to push the bolt back when you think it sticks... it just goes halfway and then goes back and i can shoot it fine after without pushing it back.

[Alpha]

OKay.. That means its taking a while for the pressure to increase and push it back.. Tell me, is your tank all teh way full? Is it under 1000PSI? Sometimes the gauges wont read right. When I go below 1000PSI on my tank, my gun does the same thing. It was doign it abotu a half hour when I was practicing snap shooting..


If the tank is over 1000PSI, can you find out the input pressure? Did you say it was 750.. I read that somewhere today.

So I dont relaly think its the bolt spring anymore. Sounds more like a carrier issue maybe.. Switch to a higher carrier. Each carrier is marked with lines and some of them have dots.. 2 lines adn 1 dot would be 2 1/2. 3 lines and no dots would just be 3. Switch up one size higher, adn see if that helps. Keep going higher and higher until it just leaks when you put the air in.

Then, switch down one carrier. IF it still leaks, try shooting it a few times. If the shoottign doesn't make it stop, then hold the trigger. If it stops, then the leak is still in your powertube area. Switch down oen carrier, and if that STILL leaks, then just keep shooting it a few hundred times.

[Asym]

It doesn't sound like a LX problem though Alpha. And if you start switching carriers when it is tuned in just right it can add more headaches. I had my LX tuned just fine but to make sure I went and tried the next bigger carrier and it leaked. To get it to stop leaking I had to move down another 2 carrier sizes from the original one it was tned with because the oring size changed from removing it with the banjo bolt.

[Virem]

I dont think its a lvl 10 problem either (unless its the spring) What i dont understand is why the gun stops shooting at 7 shims in my ULT and shoots fine with 6 shims... more shims is supposed to make it have more reactivity

[Asym]

Stops shooting how, with 7 shims?

Normally if you get too many shims in, when you shoot and hold down the trigger you'll hear it leaking. The on/off isn't sealing because there are too many shims making the pin seem longer and not allowing it to seal.

[yakitori]

you need to adjust your top set screw on your logic frame. It has to be very fine tuned. Set your ULT w/ about 3 shims. Then air up the gun, and back off the top set screw. then you will need to turn the set screw in toward your trigger rod while pulling the trigger many times along the way. The trigger will become stiffer as you reach correct point w/ that set screw. Then go very slow from there until you find that spot where it still reacts, but doesnt short stroke so easily.

Do all of this after you have fine tuned your LVL 10.

[Virem]

OK so i got a chance to address all the possible problems people have gone over.

- the lvl 10 springs : i tried the other springs and the other 2 springs made it worse
- me short stroking: i shot it making sure i went all the way back and all the way forward, if i did that fast the bolt would only go half way
- tank flow problems effecting recharge : i shaved my normal RT on/off pin enough to make the gun go full auto, and it did

I really dont know what the problem is, It has to be something with the ULT

[nippinout]

Check your trigger rod. There should be a very small gap between the end of the rod and the back of the trigger. Small enough of a gap so something like a matchbook cover could fit in there.

Do you know what fps you are shooting at? Try turning your velocity adjuster up. Try swapping back to a non LX spring.

Or shoot slower.

[darthp]

Did you try backing off the top set screw that adjusts the contact between the trigger and the sear rod. Also have you checked that the front frame screw is not to tight. The frame screw will cause wierd bolt stick issues is it is to tight.

[Virem]

There is a small gap between the trigger rod and the trigger, the screws arnt too tight, plus it doesnt seem to be bolt stick, i am not shooting that fast, maybe 7 BPS and it can start screwing up... (if i wanted to shoot 7 bps i woulda kept my classic valve)