Does bumper shredding cause paint shredding?

[purple]

Hey yall,

I was playing this past saturday with my emag (which is getting more and more pimp as the weeks go by) and much to my chagrin, I was making yoghurt like nobody's business. When I'd shoot off one or two paintballs it was no problem, but if I'd rip a rope, it'd shoot fine until I'd hear the level 10 chuff. I have an eggy, so it feeds fairly quickly. After that everything goes to hell and I'm just wasting money.
I pulled apart the emag at the end of the worst day of chops I've ever had and I found the RT bumper that the bolt sits against was all chewed up and pieces of it were all up inside the bolt between the power tube tip and the outer wall of the bolt.

My question: is this what's causing the paint shredding? I havent shot it since i changed out the bumper, and I need this gun for my HRL tryout sunday. Anybody got an answer? How often does this happen to you guys, is there a way to prevent this?

thanks for your help yall :)

Purple

[deadeye9]

A good question.
I've been shredding paint lately, too and I noticed my bumper had a tear in it.
I can't think of any reason that a bad bumper would have any effect, but ...

[CaliMagFan]

i think my bumber is split and i never chop.... i believe that i have teh blue bumbper in my RT as well... which is not really the right one for the job, but liek i say, no breaks.....

do remember that it's winter and your paintballs are probably misshapen beacuse the humidity and the temp and all that... try using a larger bore barrel, cause this is the time of year that you're guna get a lot of barrel breaks...

if it is really the bolt then i suggest taht you use the next largest spring in your LX pack..

-kyro

[purple]

hey kyro, I'm using the urethane (clear) bumper in the Emag, they call it the RT bumper on the airgun online store.

I was shooting diablo formula 13 (trash) and yeah, they were dimpled and awful, but then i got a baggy of pmi premium and it chopped those to hell as well(i sized the paint to the bore i was using) . I was using a ccm carbon graphite switch kit with the largest bore (.693) and it wasnt barrel breaks, it was chops since the paint got spewed up the feedneck at one point and was coating the bolt.
I was using the shortest spring on my X valve and the standard emag on/off inside, 2 shims in level10(which i aslo need to change, since it periodically leaks, the o ring needs to be changed, that is)

how does going up a spring change the gun's characteristics?

thanks for your help guys

Purple

[bigredbullseye]

Im not sure the type of the body that you are using, but one of the things that I had a problem with is dual ball detents. If they are too tight, the balls dont sit firmly on the bottom of the breech before they are fired out. this causes a problem because as the bolt comes forward, there is less protection from chopping as the bolt speeds up. the ball is then pushed forward by the bolt, near full speed and then it catches on the bottom of the feedneck, but because the bolt has already traveled past the normal "chuffing point", there is more force on the bolt which causes the chop and erratic barrel placement.

The springs change the gun because of the force equation related to the spring vs. the psi of the dump chamber. the longer the spring the more energy that is required to move it forward. It is less efficient with the longest spring, but the bolt becomes "softer" to the paint.

spoken by a true blue "poo slinger"

[athomas]

Going to a longer/stiffer spring reduces the impact force exerted on the ball by the bolt.

Another possible problem could be that your bolt spring is worn out. A worn out bolt spring is weaker and increases the bolt impact force on the ball as well.

[Banshee23]

Yep either use the medium spring or try a brand new brass one in there. I've seen older brass ones that due to wear were over 1/4" shorter than a new one = chopping even with the Lvl 10 in there.

[purple]

you guys rock! i took it out today with a new bumper, problem NOT fixed. So i put in the medium spring and clocked back up to 300. and whaddaya know, the lvlx works like a champ!

Interesting side note, the 1.37 software is capped at 16 bps, and i'm shooting a eggolution2 hopper which is supposed to feed at like 17 BPS. Well shooting a nice rope i fairly frequent lvlx chuffs. So would a z board work better?

Thank you so much for all yall's help getting my emag fixed!

Purple

[CaliMagFan]

well the posted feed rate claims for loaders are ussually what they can do in a burst like from ball #2-ball #15 ... so , if you are shooting, lets say 16, then you'll really have to have a loader like a hold that can keep a steady ~20bps as its slow speed.

I have no experience with Z code.. but you might see if you can find a guy that has that on their egg and test his loader with your paint and gun...

-kyro

[maglover728]

I just bought a dirt-cheap mag that had the mail spring at about 1/8" shorter that the lvl7 bolt that was in it. The spring change is the way to go when first trouble shooting you lvlX equipped mag for paint breakage.

[athomas]

I outshoot my egg all the time using emag ver. 1.37 firmware. It can't get the ball into the chamber fast enough between bolt cycles. The egg relies on the force of gravity to start the balls falling into the chamber and the motor only runs until the ball stack is full. There is no extra energy stored to help push the ball stack once the bolt opens.