I just got my valve today along with an Intelliframe and more. I know how the Classic valve works and I know how to completely disassemble it. I don't have any idea what the X-Valve's internals are like so I was hoping somebody could guide me through this. I don't want any suprises and that's what I'd get if I tried this on my own.... I think I would. Thanks. There is no ULT btw.
Please help me break apart the X-Valve.
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dude, is it broken?
If not drip oil in it and forget about it. I have never seen the inside of my xvalve and I've had it over a year now.
If it ain't broke don't fix it. -
lol, people keep telling me that. It's not broken.
This is one of those things that I just have to know. I like knowing how my gun works and this information will be handy if I need to take it apart ever. And taking it apart will teach me how it works somewhat and I'll be able to troubleshoot myself.
I've unscrewed the valve halves and found out that this doesn't take a reg seat. No more worrying about replacing the seat everytime it's opened.
What else is in here.
Does the regulator have the same configuration as the Classic valve? (Reg piston, spring pack, and the screw adjuster thing) <-That it in the X-Valve?
The power tube is easy. np there.
On/off, hmm.... I have to say it looks a lot different than the Classic on/off. I pulled it out and saw there is a little black oring in the middle of the gold bottom part. How on earth do you get in there to replace that oring?Comment
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the on/off screws apart. Don't tell anyone, but you can put LX shims between the halves to adjust the effective length of the on/off pin and therefore your reactivity.Comment
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Visit http://www.airgun.com/downloads/retroexploded1.pdf to view an exploded view of the Retro Valve.
It is great to see exactly what the valve has in it....Comment
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Thanks Dahvaio. That helped a lot. EDIT: Is that the same for RT Pro? :EDIT
I would put a shim or two in right now but I can't get the two halves unscrewed from each other. I unscrew it to the left just like normal threads, correct? I've gotten out the wrenches and everything and this is not budging at all.Comment
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Originally posted by trains are badthe on/off screws apart. Don't tell anyone, but you can put LX shims between the halves to adjust the effective length of the on/off pin and therefore your reactivity.
are you referring to the stock on/off assembly? if so can i use ULT shims also?
because i know the ULT assembly you can unscrew the two halves
Last edited by Carbon Blue; 01-23-2005, 01:39 AM.Comment
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Does the oring inside the valve where the reg seat usually goes get ruined whenever you open the two halves? The old reg seats get messed up whenever you unscrew then screw the halves together.
How do you get the valve pin and stuff out? Just pull on that gold thing and everything will come out? I'm not actually going to do that but I'd like to know for sure.
Does the on/off top and bottom unscrew like normal threads? I tried unscrewing the two to add a shim but it's not budging at all.Comment
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dude, you are making this waay too complicated.
they just screw apart. The threads are not reversed and it does not have a self destructing oring.Comment
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from what im reading yes you can unscrew the stock on/off and he knows that u do not have the ULT and he is telling you that you can unscrew the stock on/off and add a shim in there.Originally posted by BoydsterI don't have the ULT. Is the stock on/off the same in that it unscrews?
And when you said to add shims, did you assume I had a ULT or stock on/off?Comment

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