Hyperframe + x-valve ???

[cockerkiller68]

I am thinking about putting a 20 bps hyperframe on an x-valve. Do you think this is a good idea?

Also, would it even make sense to do the ULE mod? Does the frame do all the work or will the mod help?

Thanks!!

[Mr. Mouse]

thats what im tryin

[master_alexander]

x valve is a good ides, an emag valve would be better... and the ult makes for a lighter pull and you are going electro so there is no need for that.

have fun.

[sabrefanpc]

i dont have one but i seem to remember hearing that ult is recomended for hyperframes

edit: here ya go http://www.automags.org/forums/showt...ult+hyperframe

[cockerkiller68]

x valve is a good ides, an emag valve would be better... and the ult makes for a lighter pull and you are going electro so there is no need for that.

have fun.

What's the difference between the x-valve and the emag valve??

Why would the e be better than the x?

Thanks

[Carbon Blue]

What's the difference between the x-valve and the emag valve??

Why would the e be better than the x?

Thanks

actually if you plan on getting the hyperframe i suggest you go with the xvalve with the ULT and am/mm sear or rtpro sear depending on the rail that you have. If you purchase the emag valve most likely its going to come with the emag on/off assembly which shouldnt work with the hyperframe.

[cockerkiller68]

Hmmm, the emag valve that I'm looking at is ULT ready. Does that make a differnece?

[Carbon Blue]

as long as everything works then u should be just fine

[cockerkiller68]

cool, thanks!

It just comes down to which valve I can get now.

Also, I gotta talk to my 9v revi and ask it if it can keep up! lolz

[Carbon Blue]

cool, thanks!

It just comes down to which valve I can get now.

Also, I gotta talk to my 9v revi and ask it if it can keep up! lolz

haha good luck with the 9v revi! that thing couldnt even keep up with my old spyder tl! i might be selling an xvalve with a ult in perfect condition in about a week so if your interested let me know! thanks

[cockerkiller68]

Well, it looks like I'm getting the X-valve but no Hyperframe. It's all good though. We'll see how it goes.

[warbeak2099]

Hey if you want to get rid of the 9v (either of you) I'm looking for one so I can feed my Qpods faster.

[Sk8ermog]

now I'm hurt. You know I have a hyperframe on my X-valved mag. You could have asked me any questions you have. I've owned 4 hyperframes and many mags so I could have answered any questions you had. I thought we were hitting it off in the PMs. *sniff...* but I guess I was wrong....


Well if you want to know then I'll help you out. First off the Emag is just as good as the X-valve. Only difference being that the Emag valve is made of Stainless Steel and is heavy where as the X-valve is aluminume and much litter. Older emag valve will not take the ULT kit but still can be drilled for them. The ULT kit is a drop in on/off kit that needs no modification if put in an X-valve or newer emag valve. For more info check out this thread: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=96538

The ULT kit is required for the Hyperframe because the noid that is in the hyperframe does not have enough power to push the sear and on/off pin in a normal x-valve or emag valve. Also the Reactivness of the X-valve causes problems with the frame as well. Centerflag, the makers of the hyperframe, did develope a special on/off that is simular to the ULT kit, and can be used in any valve. This is also just a drop in kit and allows the hyperframe to work correctly and acheive 13+ balls per sec. without shoot-down or reactivness from the valve. I would highly sugest you go with the ULT kit because the centerflag on/off will only work with the hyperframe and now with a mech frame. If you get the ULT kit you have the option of switching back to a mech trigger frame and still have a fast rate of fire.

Now as for the hyperframe it is basically just a sear tripping electric frame. Uses a lot of the same parts and concepts as the spyder electric frame. The silinoid... or "noid" will hit the mag trigger sear on every pull of the trigger. This is controlled by the on/off switch behind the trigger which is then connected to the board. It takes one 9volt battery and comes with 2 different kinds of boards. There is the 13bps board and the 20bps board. You can also switch out the board and put in a PredII board and a Morlock board. For more info on that do a search for Devil Mag or Logic in the dealer forum. You can also get different kinds of on/offs to help speed up the trigger. You can get a 25gram on/off switch which will make the trigger pull very light or you can stick with the 80g switch that comes with the frame.

The hyperframe will work on a classic rail, but not a RT rail unless you have the wings milled down. Meaning the hyperframe has wings on the side to make it fit better on a classic rail. I don't know if newer hyperframes have these milled off, but every frame I've had has had these. YOu can have them milled off to make them work on a RT rail (which has a flat bottom). I would talk to Luke or some of the other machinest in the dealer forum to have this done.

As for the hopper I'd say you'd need at least a 12 volt x-board rev. to keep up with a 20bps hyperframe. Now mind you the board can go up to 20bps, but on average you will only hit 15-16bps so a rev. should be fine. The next step up would be to an EggII and then a Halo.

My current set up is this mag w/ x-valve, hyperframe with 20bps board, ULT kit, custom ULE milled rail with 15degree vert ASA (made by Luke) and a HaloB:



I will have new pictures of this gun in a few days since its coming back from Centerflag with the upgraded board. If you have anymore questions about the frame or what you think you should get then let me know and I'll help you out even though you didn't come to me first.

[cockerkiller68]

I'm sorry Ross, it's me not you. I never thought it would come to this.

HAHA j/k I was waiting for you to come on yesterday, but I guess you must really keep late hours. Talk to you soon. I'll PM you on the Hyper.