the seal between the 2 halves of the valve?

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  • wanna-b-ballin'
    Pump Player
    • Jan 2005
    • 1380

    #1

    the seal between the 2 halves of the valve?

    is it true that i have to replace the seal between the 2 halves of the valve every time i open it up?
    i read it somewhere a long time ago, but i dont understand why. anybody know?

    thanks
    upgrade fund: $145
  • deathstalker
    Fnord!
    • Jun 2002
    • 1115

    #2
    Here you go. Some people have been able to reuse theirs, though.
    This is the forum for trouble shooting your Airgun Designs products, including the Automag, RT, E-Mag, and WarpFeed. Also a great place to ask technical questions about non AGD products. An Airsmith's homeroom!

    Need a new sig pic? Click here!

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    • danheneise
      Registered User
      • Jan 2003
      • 531

      #3
      well i've never replaced mine ever since i got my gun, and i'm running on the same valve and everything. i've pulled my valve apart numerous times and don't experience any problems... this is with a classic valve

      Comment

      • maglover728
        Boomer!
        • Apr 2004
        • 1093

        #4
        If you mean the regulator seal, you should as the two halves never go back together the exact same way. If you mean the large plush o-ring that would seem to act as a seal for the out side edges of the two valve segments, I don't think I have changed mine more that once in 6 years.
        stay proud, Stay mechanical!

        And my feed back is at: http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1771790#post1771790

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        • aaaa
          Registered User
          • Jun 2004
          • 37

          #5
          reg seal

          i agree w/ danheise: make sure the fat end of the polyurethane seat is away fron the steel valve pin and fits tight. if the trigger gets a hard pull the reg seal is leaking and the safety pop-off valve is allowing 320 fps or better, that will realy smart from close range.

          an easy go-by while waiting for a new seal:
          600 grit followed by 1200 grit sandpaper will take out pits or tracks across the polyurethane seal. use a very flat surface (rear view mirror on car) to back up the sandpaper. with light finger pressure use figure 8 strokes and rotate the seal 30 or 40 degrees every few stokes. clean and look at surface frequently , stop when tracks are no longer visible. the 1200 grit will leave a fine mat finish so next time you view the seal the shiny ring where the steel pin has been seating will be veru visible. any shiny line crossing the seeat ring is a leak. refacing the plastic seat will only work a few times as it becomes too thin to work, so a new seat is is order.

          Comment

          • personman

            #6
            Yeah, you definitely don't need to replace it every time you open the valve up, BUT, if it gets damaged or dirty, even slightly, you will have velocity problems and such. Take good care of it

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