I just thought this might work....

[deathdeath_inc]

First off this is an electro-mag theory, so if you don't care about electro-fast mags then don't even go any further.

What if you were to get a Spyder T-board or something and rig the solenoid on the old spyders, you know the sear-tripper kind, to simply push the ULT trigger rod back? I mean in theory it sounds like it would work, i think the solenoid would have enough power to easily push the ULT back. then all you would have to do is get a trigger microswitch set up to the trigger frame you have now, for intsance the Intelliframe. Eyes aren't a big issue as long as you have the LX. Which I'm sure pretty much everyone that shoots a mag has, even if its not for perfomance, you know just to show off by sticking your tongue in the breech! heheh That's what i love about my 68, no worries about paint! Someone let me know what they think about this idead, and if they think the solenoid could handle it.

[txaggie08]

you talking a noid to push the sear back( to trip it) or to push the on off pin. on off pin wont work(there is a discussion on that in deep blue) and the sear trip has about ten threads down in the workshop . the sear trip seems to work pretty well, but the dwell issues on the spyder boards would be bad. you would need to use something like te morlock or predator with an adjustable dwell to work right(although i think the spyder board may **work** it just will cause issues) theres always the devilmag or hyperframe(wich i have no idea exaclty how they work but i beieve there solenoid based(i know the hyperframe is))

[nak81783]

As mentioned, they've been done. Bandit Paintball and I started mine about 5 months ago, had to go to school for a term, and just recently finished it. It's a Mako Storm Spyder frame on a ULT LvL X X-valve Mag.

I've got it running good at 10bps, and then ran out of paint. 15bps wasn't working, but I had to adjust some set screws in my design. We'll see if the screw adjustments help, but I fear that dwell is the main issue. I can adjust pulse length (dwell) in the Mako board from 5 to 15, but I don't know if that'll be enough. We'll see.

Personally, I don't care for electros. There's just something about the crisp pull of a mech trigger that I like. However, it's a fun project, and the frame wasn't getting used much on my old Spyder.

-Nathan

[deathdeath_inc]

Yeah i could do without electros, because I love the same feel of a mechanical...but they just can't hang speed-wise with the electros of today... and i was talking about just taking the trigger rod part off... leaving the sear itself, then putting the noid right behind the trigger and pushing the sear back...as for the dwell issue, i think a dragun tes board would be fine...it can do 20bps with the sear so...but I wouldn't know how to exaclty place the noid to fire the sear, but i guess that's a trial/error issue. I dunno though i just thought someone would have already built one with a working trigger frame that can operate just fine at around 15 bps.