Emag questions

[Boydster]

I've been using an RT Pro for a little while now and I finally decided to buy the Emag lowers. The guy was selling them for 300 dollars without the charger. Well, I don't have 380 dollars to spend now so I decided to trade him my X-Valve ULT for his Emag valve w/ lvl 10. He gave me 80 dollars credit for the lowers because of that. Same performance, just a little bit more weight.... That also saved me money from having to buy the Emag specific on/off stuff. Think this is a good deal?

1)Ok, first question is, (in mechanical mode only) can I shoot just as fast as I would with just the mech only RTP mag?

2)If I decided to take the Emag lowers off for some reason, can I use the Emag valve with the same on/off? If I have to get an RT on/off, I'd have to get the valve drilled out, right? Or will the normal Emag on/off with the quad oring be fine? Sure I'd have to have an RTP sear but I could get one if it was needed.

3)I have 3 CO2 tanks right now and a spare classic valve. Can I use the classic valve if I leave the Emag in mechanical mode ONLY? I'm sure the Classic valve trigger weight would screw the electronics up so I would only keep it in mech mode. I don't see what would get hurt, the on/off is in the exact same spot as the RT on/off.

That's all I can remember now, more questions later. Thanks.

[kurama]

1) Yup, its the same without a ULT trigger kit. Pretty much uber reactivity

2) I tried to use the emag on/off on a classic mag. It went full auto without pulling the trigger, so I'm betting not.

3) Should work if you use the emag rail.

[Boydster]

Thanks btw

no no no, number two was asking whether or not I could simply take the emag lowers off, and slap an intelliframe on. No valve on/off adjustments or anything. The same on/off pin and quad oring still being there and everything else, just with an intelliframe. I would need an RTP sear though. Or would I have to get the valve drill out to accept a normal RTP on/off?

[Tunaman]

The on/off's in RT's, Retro valves, Emag valves, and Xvalves are all the same with the exception of Emag valves older that serial# 1000 or so. Those valves used an aluminum on/off top and a .728 pin and a single oring. You cant use any emag pins in guns other than emags. They are just too short. All you need is a .750 pin and you can use your emag valve in any other mag . Hope this helps.

[Boydster]

About the battery now. If it's fully charged, and it has the yellow pin inserted, how long will that sufficient charge to fire the gun last if it's unused? The lowers I'm buying do not have a charger and I do not know if they're charged or not. I want to at least want to try out the electronics when I get it.... I think I've heard it'd last a week before. idk, hopefully it's much longer. If it's a week, I'd have to charge it everytime before I go play. And I don't really want to do that. If I shoot +/- 1,200 rounds off each time I play, and I play 1 time every three weeks, how often do you think I'll need to charge it?

Does anyone know for sure the answer to this.....?
I have 3 CO2 tanks right now and a spare classic valve. Can I use the classic valve if I leave the Emag in mechanical mode ONLY? I'm sure the Classic valve trigger weight would screw the electronics up so I would only keep it in mech mode. I don't see what would get hurt, the on/off is in the exact same spot as the RT on/off.

[deathstalker]

Here's my most recent experience with my E-Mag battery. I charged it the first weekend of October last year and played all weekend, shooting two cases. Since that time, I've probably put 1-2 tanks of air through it each week, mostly dry-firing, with the electronics on all the time. My battery went dead last Friday.

[Boydster]

Cool, so it won't go dead in a week. Thanks. So does anybody know about that classic valve question? #3