A Few Qs about The Original RT

[prozac4545]

I have an original RT that I got on eBay. When I first got the thing, it was a little leaky so I came here and got help. I had it rebuilt completely (all new o rings, oiled and lubed, ect...)at a local shop. I don't get to play all that often, so I've only used my gun about 4 times and have only shot about 1500 rounds through it. I did the 6 drops of oil and all that to keep it lubed.

The last time I was playing, for no reason 1/2 my tank leaked out the barrel in a mere seconds and stopped on its own and worked fine for about an hour afterwards. The next time I went to gas up the rest of my air leaked out. So in an attempt to find out what the deal was, I took my gun apart and when taking out the banjo bolt, the middle o ring ripped. I had to force the bolt out so I'm sure that's why it ripped. I looked all over town and found just one shop (not the one I had it "fixed" at the time before) that had the right o ring and it was from a guys personal kit that he gave me (it was his last one). Every time I go to take the bolt out its a struggle and I try to be as careful as possible not to rip the o ring. Anyway. I had him check it out for leaks and all that, and he "fixed" it as well. before I was out of the parking lot, I decided to shoot it a few times to see if it was going to act right and sure enough my whole tank of air I just bought leaked out. I took it back in and the guy gave me another tank of air and shot it a few times and it was still leaking. He screwed around w/ my level 10 a little and said that that would fix it. I shot it a few times in the store and it started leaking again. He just slapped the bolt around a few times w/ a squeegee and its stopped (kind of). I came home and put some shims in the level 10 and it stopped for a bit. I shot 100 rounds or so with no problem, and then all of a sudden it does it again. I've been looking at getting a new gun because I can't seem to resolve this issue. When it works, its excellent, so I'd hate to see it go. I just got a new (to me) barrel for it and wouldn't mind getting an Intelliframe.

I have carefully followed all directions on putting the level 10 together so I don't know what the deal is there. It stops sometimes if I hold the trigger down, but usually not. So any help here would be GREATLY appreciated.

Also, is there some trick to the banjo bolt that I'm just not seeing? I've replaced the o rings on this thing 2 times in a year about to be 3 'cuz I know that when i take it out next time its going to rip. I am only hand tightening this thing. Its not like I am using a super drill to put it in. I don;t have a part # for those, so If anyone has those could you pass that along. I need to order a case of them.

Also, if I do replace it, would a good replacement gun be a Tac One and which loader is better, the q-loader or the warp feed? I've never used a loader before. I have an old VL Revolution hopper.

P.S. Sorry for posting War and Peace.

[REDRT]

Level 10 is pretty much use the loosest carrier before it leaks. If it leaks drop to the next size tighter until it doesn't leak. Then after you found the carrier that doesn't leak add 1 shim at a time until it leaks. Back off that one shim and it should be good. Pick your spring. Middle one is usualy the best for most.

Banjo bolt orings. Make sure the rail to body is lined up. There sometime there is just alittle play enough so the holes are a little off causing that middle one to tear. The SS body is some what sharp. Also make sure the marker is degassed. If the valve is still aired up some it likes taking out the orings when you remove the banjo bolt. Don't over tighten them and lube them. I used to reck one all the time when I first got mine years ago. You get used to it and learn the feel of it it doesn't happen anymore.

[prozac4545]

The thing is, I have the smallest carrier on it and 1 shim. It still leaks w/ that shim out.

When I try and take the bolt out just by unscrewing it, it almost feels like its cross threaded. I don't believe it is, and think its just the o ring catching. I could be wrong. If cross threading is the case, could this cause leaks?

[REDRT]

My brother was having a problem like that. The oring was hard and just worn out on the level 10. Replaced with a fresh one and it fix the leak. I have heard the carriers sometime are not all the same. Meaning they are somewhat defective in there sizing.

Pretty hard to cross thread the banjo bolt. Sounds like the oring is binding. Try cracking the screw above the trigger. So you can move the body on the rail to find the center till the banjo goes in nice.

PS Sometimes if the Orings are stretched or squished it will do the blinding thing also. You may need to replace them again cause of damage that may already occured

[REDRT]

Got to turn in. See what you find. I'll check back some time in the morning if I'm not working

[prozac4545]

Yeah I figured out that frame screw trick and pushed the o ring thru with a dental pick and it seems to be ok. All of the o rings from the barrel to the bolt have been replaced as of August '04. And like I said, fairly light use. The one the guy gave me seems a tad lose, but I may have stretched it a tad trying to get that bolt out.

Also when I put all of the washers in the power feed, the bolt doesn't go all the way back so I left off the white washer between the shim and the power feed tip that screws in. That gives it just the right amount of space to go all the way back.

Now my leak seems to be coming from the hole in the regulator (where you put the allen key). This may be because my tank is almost at 0.

I appreciate your help. I'm going to go throw away $5 more tomorrow continue my leak testing. I wish there was a way to fill up my own tank. I have an air compressor for a nail gun, but its only 300 PSI so that doesn't help much when I have a 4500 PSI tank to fill.

But I'm hopin to get this dumb thing fixed by Friday/Saturday so I can go have some fun.

[BigEvil]

Best bet -
SPend the $45 rebuild fee from AGD. I had a RT for years and never had an issue. I put the lv10 in it and it did all sorts of weird things that no matter what oring I changed, ever seemed to help. My brother bought the gun from me and sent it in to AGD to have them rebuild it. Best money he ever spent.

[REDRT]

Yeah I figured out that frame screw trick and pushed the o ring thru with a dental pick and it seems to be ok. All of the o rings from the barrel to the bolt have been replaced as of August '04. And like I said, fairly light use. The one the guy gave me seems a tad lose, but I may have stretched it a tad trying to get that bolt out.

Also when I put all of the washers in the power feed, the bolt doesn't go all the way back so I left off the white washer between the shim and the power feed tip that screws in. That gives it just the right amount of space to go all the way back.

Now my leak seems to be coming from the hole in the regulator (where you put the allen key). This may be because my tank is almost at 0.

I appreciate your help. I'm going to go throw away $5 more tomorrow continue my leak testing. I wish there was a way to fill up my own tank. I have an air compressor for a nail gun, but its only 300 PSI so that doesn't help much when I have a 4500 PSI tank to fill.

But I'm hopin to get this dumb thing fixed by Friday/Saturday so I can go have some fun.

Were is that white washer? White washer first, carrier with oring to the white washer second, shims third and finally the tip.
Going to need air. Things tend to leak because they don't seat at low air pressure.

[Beemer]

What RT said

You dont have to send it in. You can fix it right here. Ya just have to learn a little.

http://www.automags.org/resource/level10/index.shtml

[prozac4545]

Were is that white washer? White washer first, carrier with oring to the white washer second, shims third and finally the tip.
Going to need air. Things tend to leak because they don't seat at low air pressure.

Its part number 6 according to the diagram for the level 10. if thats in there, I can't screw the tip in all the way. Also the bolt wont seat all the way back against the gel ring. Hopefully everything is fine once I get some air, but if not, that $45 send in may be what I do. Both paintball shops around here charge $35/hr for labor. Id rather spend the extra $10 and have it done right.

I thought it was kind of weird that you could pay $325 to have it converted to a gun you can buy for about $340.

And Beemer. Believe me. I've read that thing about 20 times in the last couple of days... enough that I've caught typos. :\

[Tunaman]

Its part number 6 according to the diagram for the level 10. if thats in there, I can't screw the tip in all the way. Also the bolt wont seat all the way back against the gel ring. Hopefully everything is fine once I get some air, but if not, that $45 send in may be what I do. Both paintball shops around here charge $35/hr for labor. Id rather spend the extra $10 and have it done right.

I thought it was kind of weird that you could pay $325 to have it converted to a gun you can buy for about $340.

And Beemer. Believe me. I've read that thing about 20 times in the last couple of days... enough that I've caught typos. :\

You cant screw the Powertube tip in all the way? That is because the carrier is not seated down far enough. Use a pen to push it down till it lands on the white plastic washer then put the tip on.
There was an updated rail assy for the RT that fixed the oring problems with the banjo bolt. If you dont want to buy the new rail, just take a piece of 600 grit sandpaper and smooth out all the lips and burrs on the rail and gripframe. That will work. Let me know if you need any help with it.

[darrickws]

Banjo Bolt problem...

I have had 7 RT mags, and this has only happened on 1 of them. But it happens every time without the fix. For some reason the banjo bolt goes in too far, so one of the orings gets expanded from air pressure (or something like that)! The way to fix it is to put another oring on the banjo bolt itself, right against the thumbscrew part. I used an old on/off o-ring I think. This keeps the bolt from going in too far and allowing the oring to expand. Dont ask me how or why, all I know is it works and is the only fix I found for the problem. All my other RT's worked fine without doing this, but that one....it took me hours to figure it out.

And yes, to get it out you need to take the rail off and push on that oring from the back side. And/or pull very hard...the oring is most likely shot anyway.

GL

[prozac4545]

Thanks for all the help and suggestions. I'm going to attack it some more tomorrow once I get a chance to get some more air and I will definitely try these things out. Thanks for all the help guys. I really appreciate it!

[prozac4545]

Ok. Having a full tank of air fixed nothing (as I suspected). And that part 6, was just me looking at the diagram wrong. I just blew what little credibility I had.

But yeah, everything is seated properly in the power feed and it still leaks. All of the o rings in the power feed are new. so I know its nothing there. The only thing I can think of is that frickin' banjo bolt. I haven't tried sanding it yet, but I will.

While I try and this this crap figured out, I bought an Imp and I really like it except for it chops a bit. Wether or not it will mean the final nail in the coffin for me and my Mag... I don't know. I was going to buy a Tac One, but the guy at EZ Paintball told me AGD is defunct. I see you can still buy things online, so I assume they just sell their own merchandise now instead of thru retailers. The guy didn't even know what a Tac One was so I don't know.

I got an ok deal on the Imp. $540 all in all. It had a 12" freak barrel, the vision thing (which doesn't seem to help with chopping unless it chopped in those 2 rounds i had it turned off), and some magnetic Dye frame.

Either way, I want this RT working. I'm trying the sanding tomorrow. I'm about 80% sure I need another o ring for this banjo bolt as well. Does anyone know the part number for them? I can't seem to find it (so I have nothing to compare it against in the store).

Also for that extra o ring on the banjo bolt trick, can it be just any reasonably fityting o ring or should it be the exact one like the others? I know its just acting as a spacer so thats why I wondered.

And as always thanks again for the help and suggestions.

[Tunaman]

Once you sand off any little burrs, make sure to lube the orings on the banjo bolt with something real slippery...like silicone oil.