3 week old RT ULE Custom still doesn't work right

[gotgemini2000]

I have a near brand new ULE Custom with a Level 10 bolt and I have had alot of troube getting it to work. I am running a 2.0 carrier right now, with a 1.5 it will not shoot. There are no washers in the bolt. With the 2.0 carrier the gun will shoot rather haltingly however alot of air comes streaming out of the front of the bolt. When the trigger is pulled the air of course stops. Any suggestions for how to fix it?

[usmc8892]

At the top of the page, just under the Automags.org logo, you will see a tab labelled "resources". Click on that and then on the level 10 guide. Also, are you running a stock on/off or a ULT on/off ?

[gotgemini2000]

I purchased the gun directly from AGD and it came and did not work out of the box. In the meantime I have had to work on the gun every time I gas it up and it still continues to be troublesome. Anyway, any advice on how to stop air from leaking through the valve would be much appreciated.

[gotgemini2000]

I'm running the ULT on/off valve

[trevorjk]

where are you from?

[gotgemini2000]

I live in PA, right outside of Valleyforge near Malvern and Phoenixville. My local paintball shop doesn't work on automags.

[gotgemini2000]

I'm now running a 1.5 carrier and the gun seems to work alright although the bolt still leaks alittle air. Should I add shims/washers in front of the carrier or will that have the wrong effect? Also, is it possible that by heating up/cooling the internals of the gun expand and contract causing inconsistency in the carrier size needed to stop leaks yet also not freeze in the bolt?

[BigEvil]

I'm now running a 1.5 carrier and the gun seems to work alright although the bolt still leaks alittle air. Should I add shims/washers in front of the carrier or will that have the wrong effect? Also, is it possible that by heating up/cooling the internals of the gun expand and contract causing inconsistency in the carrier size needed to stop leaks yet also not freeze in the bolt?

OK, firstly, I hope you are not saying that you are running co2 with an X-valve? That is a HUGE NO-NO. AIR ONLY!!!

Secondly, sounds like the carrier o-ring may need replacing. It happens sometimes when they break in after changing carrier sizes.

[gotgemini2000]

I have tried multiple O-rings and none have stoped the leak. Also, CO2 has never been run through the gun. Any suggestions besides changing O-ring? Thanks for the help.

[BigEvil]

I have tried multiple O-rings and none have stoped the leak. Also, CO2 has never been run through the gun. Any suggestions besides changing O-ring? Thanks for the help.

WOW... without actually looking at it I'd say im stumped.

When you hold the trigger, it closes the on/off and basically shuts off the front of the gun. So the problem is in the front, somewhere from the on/off forward.

You changed carrier orings... so try going through it again step by step.

Look up the lvl 10 diagrams.
Take your vavle apart, and go from there.
Make sure everything is in properly, where it belongs, and not damaged.

Once you eliminate all of the obvious, such as orings, then we have to consider the improbable.
Maybe the bolt is defective? Or perhaps the sear.

If the gun hasnt worked correctly since you purchased it, I would definately send it in to AGD.

[gotgemini2000]

if the air is clearly leaking through the front of the bolt might there be some other problem besides just a faulty o-ring or an incorrectly sized carrier? Also, holding down the end of the bolt with my finger sometimes stops the leak.

[Enemy]

try adding shims start with 2.. and work up or down as needed if that doesnt work try and even smaller carrier.

[tonybhall]

If I understand correct, you went down one carrier size and the gun leaks less and works better but still has some problems. Correct?

If so, go down one more carrier size. It may be a bit of a tight fit at first. Lube the carrier oring (the white one) really good. Then dry fire it like 200 times. You may have some bolt stick at first. But as you keep firing it the o-ring should break in and loosen up.

Once you get it working good, put in 2 shims. If it does not leak any then you should be good to go. If it does then take one out.

Hope that helps.

[Enemy]

run as little shims as possible as they control the venting stage and if it vents earlier then it will be softer!!

[athomas]

The shims do control how early it vents. Make sure you check the level 10 setup without any shims at all.