Bolt Stick on RT Pro...

[MedicDVG]

Greetings,
Went out yesterday and tried to play with the ole' medicmag.. But alas, after about 2-3 shots, the bolt would stick and not fire -- All I would hear was the Level X dumping..

So.. I took the valve out, oiled the powertube tip, went up another carrier size, and then also checked the trigger screws to see if they were too tight..

No dice.. same problem...

So I turn to the accumulated masses of AO for answers. You will note that I have tried the above suggestions based on research done here on AO, yet my problem persists.

Setup:

IT body
RT Pro Valve,
Level X (1.5 carrier, 3 shims)
Gold Spring
Stock RT Pro On/Off

Any thoughts at all?

[athomas]

What is the chrono speed? Turn up the velocity until it shoots.

[MedicDVG]

I was chronoing at 280.. I turned the velocity up until the valve started sputtering out the back and then backed it down from there.. but still I had the same problem...

[athomas]

Remove the level 10 shims while checking the operation of the level 10.

How does the carrier and o-ring slide on the bolt stem while out of the gun. Is is stiff or loose? You should feel a bit of tension, but it shouldn't be so tight that you have to force it to move. If it moves easily, you should be good to go.

Is the bolt sticking such that the trigger rod and sear isn't pushed forward? Or is the bolt sticking such that the bolt just won't move when the sear is pulled out of the way?

[MedicDVG]

Remove the level 10 shims while checking the operation of the level 10.

How does the carrier and o-ring slide on the bolt stem while out of the gun. Is is stiff or loose? You should feel a bit of tension, but it shouldn't be so tight that you have to force it to move. If it moves easily, you should be good to go.

Is the bolt sticking such that the trigger rod and sear isn't pushed forward? Or is the bolt sticking such that the bolt just won't move when the sear is pulled out of the way?

When I pull the trigger, the bolt moves about 1/8" then sticks. The on/off is being pushed and the sear is dropped. I am assuming that the sear is out of the way of the bolt edge, but I can not be sure. I am pretty certain that it is as it will fire normally like 2-3 times and then hang up and vent out the level X.

As for the carrier, it is just snug enough that there is a little tension -- I went as large as I could before it would leak. I was running the 0 size carrier before, and it worked great, but this was in the winter. So I assumed that because it is warmer that I needed a larger carrier..

Are there any issues with running this bolt on a RT PRO valve as opposed to the X-valve?

[JRingold]

When it sticks, is the trigger stuck also? I've reciently had some alignment issues where my body was off a little and the sear was catching between the rail and the body. Does the trigger and sear move freely without the valve in?

The other issue I've run into reciently was that the valve wasn't properly aligned in to the mainbody, since the spring is pushing back on the valve and the field strip screw is the only thing holding it on, I have had it "hinge" a little at that point, so I would get one shot off and the bolt wouldn't reset.

[MedicDVG]

No the trigger and trigger pin move freely all the time. I will have to look at the valve alignment, that could be causing the on/off pin to be binding up a little... thats an idea I have not looked at yet.

[JRingold]

I did have to "widen" the hole for the on/off on one of my mainbodies to accomodate my non-AGD rail, so that might be similar.

[MedicDVG]

No, but supposedly there have been issues with the IT body tolerances. It was not machined from an AGD slug body.

The first step AGD suggests is re-installing all factory AGD parts. Swap out that IT body for an AGD body and see if your issue persists.

I would if I had any of the stock parts left.. LOL..

Full specs are:

IT body,
Rogue Shadow Rail with roller sear
Intelliframe
Rogue Viperblade trigger
RT Pro Valve (#731)
Level X with 3 Shims
1.5 carrier
Rogue Stick gas-thru forgrip.

<a href=http://img170.exs.cx/img170/548/dsc017097mu.jpg><img src=http://img170.exs.cx/img170/548/dsc017097mu.jpg width="600" height="450"></img></a>

[athomas]

I would say your level 10 setup is probably ok since the bolt is actually moving 1/8". It is obviously binding on something at this point. Check the movement of the bolt in the body by pushing the bolt into the breach against the bolt spring. You will have to do this without the valve installed, obviously. If it moves freely, try putting the valve and bolt into the body without the bolt spring and see if it moves freely into the breach. You may have to take the body off for this one.

It is possible that the bolt is binding on the body or the detents..

[JRingold]

Man, that's one sweet, sweet, sweet BLANKET. Dude, where'd you get it, I need one? Oh and the marker is ok too, but can you post more pictures of that blanket? I think my daughter would like it.

[MedicDVG]

Thats no blanket.. thats my daughters Uber soft pillow that I sewed for her... I thought it showed my famillial side, and the fact that I don't take myself all that seriously... Plus the kitties are awfully damned cute, donchthink?

I will work on the mag tomorrow and see what I can come up with. I have to get a HPA fill so I can push some air through it. I will post more information as it comes available.

[JRingold]

Are you taking orders on those pillows? Or do you have a materials list? That's one large pillow.

When it sticks, see if an attempted twist side to side causes the bolt to reset. That's how I diagnosed mine.

[Alpha]

Dean,

When you dink around tomorrow, do it with no shims in the Level 10. I always tune my LX in steps.

Step 1. Find carrier that will not leak and will not produce bolt stick.
Step 2. Find maximum amount of shims without leak
Step 3. Find the right spring.

Go back to your 0 carrier and ditch the three shims.

Too many shims will make it leak, and not enough will make bolt stick. Once you find the right carrier, start putting in shims. If you use ULT shims too, you can get maximum anti-chop effectiveness.

[MedicDVG]

Well I have gotten rid of the bolt stick.. now I have to find a carrier that doesn't leak.

I removed all the shims, and went to the #2 carrier. I also had to adjust the depth of the Kila detents. They weren't really in the way, but they did seem to put a bit of pressure on the bolt when it fired.

So my problem now is that I have corrected the bolt stick, but my carrier leaks down the barrel. If I go down a size, I don't get the leak, but I get the bolt stick -- no amount of oil seems to assist this.

Oh well, I am getting closer. Maybe I have to get a new set of carrier o-rings. The ones I have as spares are so huge that even in the 0 carrier they leak like a white house insider.