Against All Odds - I have a wierd mag

[MadPSIence]

I've been tinkering with my auto mag for so long now my eyes are red like a crack head and my fingers, swollen, twitching and some bleeding. My breathing is off and I might have brought back my old sleeping disorder.

I have this thing fine tuned to the point were it will actually fire (kicks like a MF'er) except it fires in bursts (ULT.. I need shims) of 3-4 at like 20bps consistantly. Still a little leaky.. so I think maybe I should oil it up, as well as add some oil to the powertube and dry fire this thing. I have only 2 shims in my ULT right now so I probably need a lot more.

hopefully shims and breaking in is all I need... but I have this bad feeling that I haven't even started to figure this thing out.

I tried tuning it at first with the big honkin spring and a small carrier. Leaked like hell, didn't shoot, didn't recharge.

I now have a huge carrier, small spring and massive input to the valve. Only running 850 to the gun though because I have a preset tank.

Anyone's wisdom would help me greatly.

[undescriptive]

lots of oil into the ULT on/off - LUBE that sucker!

if you have a stock on/off use that to tune the Lvl10

use the biggest carrier that doesn't leak on the lvl10 with no shims

get it so it will fire (hence the stock on/off)

make sure you oil the power tube O-ring too - Lube EVERYTHING!

get the LVL 10 sorted, then play about with the ULT (unless you don't have a stock on/off)

if you MUST use the ULT only put 2 shims in and then try to get it to fire. it might not be the lightest, but you have got to get that lvl10 tuned first

good luck!

Remember OIL OIL OIL OIL!

them O-rings sure love their oil

[MadPSIence]

i already have 2 shims in the ULT.

the level 10 is tuned.. now I just need to figure out the ULT. It still fires in bursts with 2 shims in.

how do I lube the ULT?

[Boydster]

Are you sure the bolt is tuned? Where is it leaking? Down the barrel? If that's the case, it is not tuned properly. I recommend starting with the short spring and a 1.0 carrier and go from there. Make sure you lubricate the powertube oring.

To oil the ULT, remove the valve from the body first of all. Then grap the brass part with your nails and pull it out. Don't worry, it's not a complicated procedure. Try oiling the two orings in the bottom, and oil the oring around the brass piece.

I don't know why ike that. Try taking one out and try it again.
the gun would be burst shooting like that though. Usually more shims equals more reactivity which equals runaway like that. Try taking one out.

Make sure you have the sear pin inserted. I forgot it once, went full auto.

Put 6-7 drops of oil in the ASA and dry-fire the thing 600 times. Refill tank, oil, dry-fire the tank completely empty again. That should break it in quite a bit.

[MadPSIence]

it starts leaking as soon as I shoot. (it still shoots bursts by the way) i gas it up and there are no leaks.. I pull the trigger and it fires a 4-5 shot burst and starts leaking moderately down the barrel.

this is the only spring/carrier combination that hasn't resulted in an all out massive leak down the barrel. (1000psi out of my 70ci per 10 seconds)

[Boydster]

Springs don't have anything to do with leaking. And moving to a smaller carrier definitely won't result in more leaking.

I suggest PM'ing Tunaman and ask about sending it in for a check-up. Or you can PM Athomas and ask for some help if you feel like you can diy.

[MadPSIence]

i know i can do it myself.. i've rebuilt this thing over 100 times now in the past 2 days.. just nothing works!

[MadPSIence]

HALLELUJAH!

I have created a MONSTER! My mag no longer leaks... and the trigger pull is comparable to a PNEU mag I **** you not. The only drawback.. which you don't have to even label as a drawback is that the gun will shoot with the safety on.. with INSANE bounce. With the safety on there's still enough give to fire it... so it bounces madly between the trigger pin + safety causing MASSIVE rapid fire (not full auto)

wow....

[NigelF]

sounds like you might want to screw that sear pin in a bit (or whatever the hell its called... adjusts when the trigger makes contact with the sear assembly).

Just a guess on that (mag newb... not new to understanding how stuff works), so correct me if I'm wrong.

[MadPSIence]

hmm.. can't adjust it. way too tight.

[NigelF]

Well, perhaps I'm wrong. But it would seem to me that if that pin were adjusted too far out, that maybe the sear wasn't able to grab the bolt as fully as it is designed to, that the slight amount of play present when the safety is on could allow the trigger to just trip the sear. I suppose that if this were the case, it could also explain the FA situation, and maybe the leak as well. If the sear cant catch the bolt, than the mag would do the FA boogy. And perhaps if the sear could just barely catch the hammer, maybe not seating the bolt as far back as it should at rest, then could the bolt be far enough forward to allow the lvlX to vent?


I'm just thinking out loud here... pay no attention to the man with the beer


Nigel F

[MadPSIence]

nah the only problem is the pin is making contact with the trigger in safe mode too much.. I can't adjust it either, it's STUCK. I might grind it down a bit. Delicate parts though..

[NigelF]

I'd wait for some more responses before you go and do any grinding. Maybe contact AGD first.

[undescriptive]

how many shims in the ULT?

you might have to remove one or 2 to stop it running away (classic over shimming example)

it won't be quite so light though...

if you have trigger stops, you will need to adjust them out to use the safety (I personally don't use the top stop, only the back one will help in preventing the short stroke )

DON'T TOUCH THE TRIGGER PIN!

as you add more shims into the ULT, it moves the trigger pin further and further forward thus making it seem like the pin is too long...

this is where you now have to balance trigger weight (a little heavier) and not having rediculous bounce