My ULE Body Died...

[LegumeOfTerror]

I was in the middle of a game and i dove behind a snake. This maneuver was followed by hissing and leaking and other assorted not-so-good sounds. After dissasembling the gun i discoverd to my amazment that i had somehow stripped the treading on the ULE body where the main frame screw is inserted apon impact. i now wonder if AGD will replace the body if i were to send it in, or will i have to purchase another one? the website has no answer and id rather not waste a long distance callto be told "no," so if anyone knows the answer to my query, please let me know.

[Dayspring]

Make the phone call. Only way to be sure.

[LegumeOfTerror]

i called, they want to take a star off my valve to repair it, and seeing my valve is extreamly old and lacks stars, i quess im out of luck. im going to try taping a larger screw in and see how that works out.

[frop]

Taping or tapping? I'd say do it right & helicoil it.

[onedude36]

i called, they want to take a star off my valve to repair it, and seeing my valve is extreamly old and lacks stars, i quess im out of luck. im going to try taping a larger screw in and see how that works out.

Dont quote me but I believe some valves had 'imaginary stars' although this might be just x valves.

[jenarelJAM]

i had the EXACT same thing happen to me. correct me if i'm wrong, but it's the threading on the ULe body? and only the first couple threads are stripped correct? It happened to me when my dad was trying to punch my trigger out(the wrong way) and the grip frame must have put the extra force on it. Basicly what you need to do is go out and get a longer screw so that it can reach the threading farther into the ULE body.

I bought a package of 3 "SOCKET HEAD CAP SCR" metric screws, size M5X25 Pitch .8 at Orchard Supply Hardware for a buck or so. then i took an electric sander, and gradually wore down one of the screws until it fit right. Basicly, the screw will be too long, so you need to sand it down or else your body will be sticking above the rail about 1/8 inch. Be sure to sand the edges so that it threads easily, i think the threads stick out a bit mroe than the threads on the stock screw.

The screw isnt as pretty as the stock screw, but it works, and doesn't hinder my trigger pull at all. My gun has a few scratches anyways, i dont care all that much how it looks, as long as it kicks *censored*.

here's pics:
first is the screw package(sorry had to crop it alot), second is the screw in my emag, third is the screw before and after shaving it down to size.

[trains are bad]

WTF.

The automag body screw is a 10/32 screw.

Your body can be fixed by any machine shop better than new.

Or you can send it back to AGD

Or you can drill it out the next size larger and modify your rail.

[alooney11]

yeah you need the longer screw, also you must have hit really hard to do that.

[jenarelJAM]

yes i know the automag screw was a 10/32, i remember that there was some reason that we didnt use one of those though. it was either that they didnt have them in the right length, or for whatever reason... anyways, you can see that the metric one works fine.

yeah, i was jsut holding the gun, my dad punched it out. neither of us had ever punched out the trigger on a pb gun b4, so we didnt know how hard to hit it. we started with a few light taps, and gradually built up to solid whacks. he got a good few in before we decided to try the other side.

there really is no reason to send it away to get worked on, as long as you have some basic tools(electric sander) you can do it at home and save shipping costs, it only costs about a buck and an hour of your time or so.

[frop]

The reason to get it heli-coiled is that it seems like all the threads were stripped. Even if it was only partial, I'd say do it anyways since there is more stress on the remaining threads & the tension on the body is critical to proper function. Steel threads > aluminum threads.