I just bought this emag and was excited to try it out. Gas it up an It will get from 1-10 shots in a nice burst, then the bolt will stick forward with a little air leaking out of the bolt down the barrel. Might this be a level X problem, or a power tube oring maybe? Thanks in advance for any help.
Bolt sticking when I pull trigger
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any remotely standard R/T style body should be extremely difficult to misalignOriginally posted by MiscueStarting with the most obvious... make sure your body is seated well, and the body and field strip screws are tight enough... slight misalignment will cause the bolt to snag.Comment
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Ive found that the ULE Emag rail will give you misalignment issues if the frame and field strip screws are tighted improperly. If i tighten the frame screw in before I at least snug the other the bolt will stick occationally. This is of course, with the all aluminum Tac-one body and ULE e-mag rail. I have a ULE body with a stock non-ule emag rail and there are no problems. Also, this shouldnt be an issue with any of the old style stainless steel mainbodies.Originally posted by MadPSIenceany remotely standard R/T style body should be extremely difficult to misalignComment
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Everything appears to be seated properly. It seems to always be leaking a little air out of the front of the bolt now. It apparently was ready to go when they shipped so, might this be a tank problem? I run a 68/45 Pure energy, so I didnt think the pressure should be an issue. Should I try to re adjust the Level X? OR start looking for busted orings? Or heck, find a Automag tech to take it toOriginally posted by BigEvilIve found that the ULE Emag rail will give you misalignment issues if the frame and field strip screws are tighted improperly. If i tighten the frame screw in before I at least snug the other the bolt will stick occationally. This is of course, with the all aluminum Tac-one body and ULE e-mag rail. I have a ULE body with a stock non-ule emag rail and there are no problems. Also, this shouldnt be an issue with any of the old style stainless steel mainbodies.
Last edited by kbjester; 05-17-2005, 02:12 PM.Comment
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Check this and try it, might help you out.. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=175194Comment
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Ok, it seems to shoot micely, then about every 4 shots or so the bolt sticks in the forward position with no air leaking out. I have to push it back in, then it starts again. Is this again the Level x? HAve I not tuned it right?Originally posted by kcam911Check this and try it, might help you out.. http://www.automags.org/forums/showthread.php?t=175194
Thanks for all the suggestions by the way, I think I am goin on the right track.Comment
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Is it leaking when you gas it up? if not then you have the right Carrier and O-ring size. That's fine. The 4 shots or so then bolt stick is because you probably have too little shims and you need to add 1 or more. Also, you must use the "shorter" spring. try the Middle size, and if it still does that then you need to go down to the shortest spring.Originally posted by kbjesterOk, it seems to shoot micely, then about every 4 shots or so the bolt sticks in the forward position with no air leaking out. I have to push it back in, then it starts again. Is this again the Level x? HAve I not tuned it right?
Thanks for all the suggestions by the way, I think I am goin on the right track.
I believe the reason why its doing this is, because there are not enough shims to release air to re-cock the valve after a long spring doesn't allow a full shot aka. a "chuff".
I hope this works. Good LuckComment
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Thanks Indulgence. That seemed to do the trick. Cycles well now. Just need to chrono it and make sure all is well. Will it matter if I have to adjust the velocity much? Also, there is an ever tiny leak out of the front bolt. So small I have to put my ear to the gun to hear it. I am thinking if I lub it up, that will get rid of it. If that doesnt, is it even worth finding the leak? And if so any suggestions?Originally posted by indulgenceIs it leaking when you gas it up? if not then you have the right Carrier and O-ring size. That's fine. The 4 shots or so then bolt stick is because you probably have too little shims and you need to add 1 or more. Also, you must use the "shorter" spring. try the Middle size, and if it still does that then you need to go down to the shortest spring.
I believe the reason why its doing this is, because there are not enough shims to release air to re-cock the valve after a long spring doesn't allow a full shot aka. a "chuff".
I hope this works. Good LuckComment
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try and shoot it out, if you break the o-ring in, it should either leak more or stop fully. I had your problem once and while playing on the field it went away because of the 300+ shots for the oring to break in. after that I put my ear so close to it that I was just "looking" for leak and people like Z-man had to assure me that there was no leak.
anyway, just make sure you get a couple drops of oil in your asa and shoot it a number of times.
if the leak gets worse, keep the same o-ring, go down a carrier size.
If you have gone down many carriers and it is still leaking, it is too many shims in the power tube. Good luck.Comment





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