X-valve problem

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  • Commissar_Loki
    6-shootin SOB
    • Jul 2003
    • 438

    #1

    X-valve problem

    This is a customer's valve from the store... and I think its a lemon. Anyway, here's the problem. If you rip on it every 3rd shot or so chuffs. This is not true if you go slow. At first I thought it was the sear pin, but no. Both Funk and Tato have worke don this marker and gotten it to work for roughly 200 rds, however it keeps going back to how it was. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated, I'm lost.


    -Butch
    Mango= Hero

    Moods mango creates:
    :clap: :tard: :rofl: :cuss: :dance: :rolleyes:
  • AnArchist_1944
    Sex-E-Mag
    • Sep 2003
    • 360

    #2
    that happend to me once cant remeber exactly how I fixed it belive I disassembled the rear part of the valve and lubed everything with dye slick put it back together and it worked but like i said i can remeber exactly what the prob was or how i fixed it but it was sometihng along those lines
    My Gun:
    Black Karta
    Blue Blade Trigger
    E-Mag Lowers 3.2
    X-Valve
    Black Dye Ultralite
    Two Blue Kila V2's
    Pics Coming Soon


    :hail: AGD :hail:
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    • athomas
      Of course it works-its AGD
      • Jan 2002
      • 8039

      #3
      Sounds like the bolt spring is worn out. How old is the gun and how many shots have been fired on it (both dry firing and rounds)? The bolt spring is a consumable item that people almost never think to change on a regular basis.
      Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

      Comment

      • Commissar_Loki
        6-shootin SOB
        • Jul 2003
        • 438

        #4
        I don't think it's the spring. The marker was brand new, and never worked correctly. Maybe 2,000 rds both dry and with paint.


        -Butch
        Mango= Hero

        Moods mango creates:
        :clap: :tard: :rofl: :cuss: :dance: :rolleyes:

        Comment

        • athomas
          Of course it works-its AGD
          • Jan 2002
          • 8039

          #5
          Probably not the spring then.

          Try taking the valve apart and cleaning the regulator pin assembly, especially around the two o-rings separated by the spacer. Check for debris in or around this area of the valve.. After cleaning it, lubricate it and put it back in.
          Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

          Comment

          • Commissar_Loki
            6-shootin SOB
            • Jul 2003
            • 438

            #6
            Did it, and tried also replacing it with a working one... to no success. This valve was made by the devil.


            -Butch
            Mango= Hero

            Moods mango creates:
            :clap: :tard: :rofl: :cuss: :dance: :rolleyes:

            Comment

            • athomas
              Of course it works-its AGD
              • Jan 2002
              • 8039

              #7
              Only a few places on the mag can cause slow recharge which lead to chuffing.

              First is the level 10 bolt stick. It can be easily overcome by going to a loose carrier and no shims. Use the shortest spring to make sure it is funtioning properly beofre fine tuning. Even if the carrier leaks a tiny bit down the barrel, the loose fit should allow the bolt to cycle freely. If it still chuffs, then the problem is not there.

              Second is the on-off pin. If it sticks , it will slow the resetting of the sear. You would have to have a pretty deformed top o-ring for this to happen. Check the fit by manually moving the pin through the top o-ring. It should be snug but not difficult to move.

              Third is the regulator pin assembly. Debris in this area can be a major pain. Also, if the o-rings get gummed up by dirt or if improper lubrication causes swelling of the o-rings, it will slow down the movement of the pin.

              Fourth is air source problems. A bad bottle regulator or an ASA that pushes the bottle pin in too far can cause major recharge issues which lead to chuffing due to slow recharge.

              Dry firing should be done without a barrel to eliminate that as a problem. Remove the detents to remove those as a source of problem as well.
              Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.

              Comment

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