Early Automag Troubles...HELP?

[Aslan]

Well, here's the long and short of it:

I bought a used 68 Classic. When I first tested it, it gave me problems freezing up. I got my nitro tank filled and it seemed to solve that problem just switching to nitro.

However, when I put my ear to the mainbody, I heard what sounded like a faint leaking. Very faint. I also noticed that my nitro tank lost 500psi after only about 40-50 shots...which can't be normal unless mag users switch tanks 1-3 times per game.

I brought it to the field with me today to try and chrono it and see if maybe I could try it out...it shot 175 and went through another 1000psi just chronoing (20-30 shots) it and taking the tank on and off twice.

When I tried to chrono it again, it was leaking air out the hole in the back of the valve. I haven't taken apart the valve yet, I will...but it would help if some of you guys could steer me to a possible thing to look for.

This is really bumming me out because when I first got the automag I was really excited and happy with the quality of how everything was put together...now I'm worried that perhaps I got myself in over my head and am going to have to certify myself as an airsmith to get this thing working.

Thanks in advance for your help.

[rb211]

A good start would be getting a parts kit for it and replacing all of the o-rings. CO2 is brutal on o-rings, and if you had problems with freezing, there is a strong chance that some of them are damaged.

[southside_mag]

I bought a used 68 from a pawn shop and had the same problem i took mine to a local paintball shop they replaced all the o-rings, but they told me not to try to adjust anything they said they already had it at about 300fps but the first time i shot it the ball didnt go 10ft ended up just selling it! sorry i couldnt help.

[Alpha]

Sounds like a problem in the reg. Maybe the seat? Talk to Tuna or Rogue.

Also, gas it up adn if it doesnt leak, hold down the trigger. tell me if the leak stops.

[Aslan]

Tried

Well, I tried what you guys said, hooking it up to a CO2 tank I had laying around. Now, I have a NEW development!

As soon as I hooked up the tank, it started blowing air out the hole in the back of the valve...just like before. BUT...I fired it 3-5 times and the leak out the back STOPPED.

I think it is still leaking faintly when I put my ear up to the mainbody...but it is firing. I don't have a chrono, but I'm fairly sure that it is probably still shooting about 175fps...because of that faint leak?

I will try taking it (the classic valve) apart this week and maybe giving it a good cleaning, oiling, and replacing the o-rings (per your recommendations). I hope that's all that it is because I'm really excited about the purchase and would love to use it eventually.

Anything else I should be looking for?

[kevdupuis]

Sounds like a reg piston leak the pressure relief valve sounds weak a new piston should cure the leak.
Here http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=18

[Aslan]

Thanks

Sounds like a reg piston leak the pressure relief valve sounds weak a new piston should cure the leak.
Here http://store.airgun.com/index.cfm?fu...&categoryID=18

I took a look at the link and it said that if the "marker shoots at normal speeds and still leaks..." but mine won't shoot at regular speeds. Could it still be this? Could I have done something to damage it? I hate to get a new one and then ruin it immediately because I'm doing something wrong.

Thanks again.

[Scott Hudnall]

You, my friend, basically need a $12 parts kit to rebuild the valve. It's simple to do. that will cure all your ills. Get a fresh air fill and rebuild the valve, you'll notice a huge difference. Lightly oil the o-rings and internals of the valve with a paintball gun oil. and I do mean LIGHTLY oil, don't over do it.

Let us know how it goes.

[Aslan]

Rebuild the valve

You, my friend, basically need a $12 parts kit to rebuild the valve. It's simple to do. that will cure all your ills. Get a fresh air fill and rebuild the valve, you'll notice a huge difference. Lightly oil the o-rings and internals of the valve with a paintball gun oil. and I do mean LIGHTLY oil, don't over do it.

Let us know how it goes.

An o-ring kit on AGD actually goes for $20. If I plan to get a Level 10 bolt, should I rebuild the valve first or wait? I'll let ya know how it goes, thanks for the post.

[Spacemanvic]

By all means, get the level 10, but dont install it until you rebuild the valve and you arent getting any other problems. Trying to tune the level 10 at this point will just make your problem SEEM bigger than it actually is.

An o-ring kit on AGD actually goes for $20. If I plan to get a Level 10 bolt, should I rebuild the valve first or wait? I'll let ya know how it goes, thanks for the post.

[Aslan]

Newest Development

You, my friend, basically need a $12 parts kit to rebuild the valve. It's simple to do. that will cure all your ills. Get a fresh air fill and rebuild the valve, you'll notice a huge difference. Lightly oil the o-rings and internals of the valve with a paintball gun oil. and I do mean LIGHTLY oil, don't over do it.

Let us know how it goes.

Well, here's where I'm at:

Tonight I took the valve apart. Replaced just about every o-ring, oiled it really good, and replaced the on-off assembly per your collective advice. When I aired it up, the problems I had before with the air initially leaking out the back went away. It still had a faint leak...but very faint...I had to put my ear right up against the back of the body to hear it and even then it was very faint.

It seems to be more efficient on the air...it went through about 700psi...maybe 150 shots. That means I was going through 50psi/shot before the repairs...now it seems to be 1.5psi/shot. It still seems inefficient, I mean, I go through 200-750 shots per game. On average, probably 350. If I figure this out right...given that I get maybe 12 games in a day...that means about 2 3000psi tanks per day. Does that sound normal? With my blowbacks...I could usually get 10-12 games...about a full day out of a 20oz CO2 tank.

So is 2 3000psi tanks per day (12games) usual for Mags? I've heard it gets worse with the Level 10 upgrade...which may be tommorrows project...?? Yikes...thank god air refills are cheap...maybe the Mag will be so accurate that it'll save me money on paint and it'll turn out a net profit.

[Scott Hudnall]

The slight leak could be from too much oil being used.

But also, make sure the thick disc seal between the 2 valve halves is in properly. If you're not sure if it's in properly, try flipping it around. Off the top of my head, I believe the wide side goes toward the back of the valve.

Not everyone is a fan of the L10. I'm not a huge fan. I use L7 FOAMIE bolt without problems or breaks. I've had NO breaks this season. Use good quality paint and a fast loader and you'll be fine. L10 will not prevent barrel breaks, which is where you will likely find paint breaks with cheap paint, anyway. Also, be careful about using a tight bore barrel....if you have several barrels, try matching the paint you are shooting to the barrel size.

Your air efficiency will be better with paint in the gun. It seems really bad with dry-firing. The efficiency is not much different than you would have with a standard blow back. You really should, however, top off your tank between games (if using high pressure). You can run on CO2, as well, but would suggest a good expansion chamber and an Anti-siphon on the CO2 tank.

You will love that mag! It will be the simplest and easiest paintball gun to maintain. You're not likely to have to rebuild that valve again for....hmmmm.....several years.

[Scott Hudnall]

Oh, and check Ebay for good deals on automag valve rebuild kits. You can get them for around $12. You can find "buy it now" with a o-ring kit and a bottle of oil for $15 or so.

[rb211]

Aslan, this faint leak you are speaking of, where exactly is it coming from? Have you chronoed it since you replaced the o-rings? If it is still leaking after replacing the reg piston oring at anything below 300, you need to change the piston. If you dont' and get a LVL X kit, your problem is going to get worse. How old is your mag?

[MnSparky]

I would still do what Kevdupuis said and get a new reg piston, I had the same problem with my classic 68 when I installed the level 10. Chrono speed was really low, when I tried to turn it up, it just leaked out the back. This problem is especially noticable with level 10 because you have to turn the velocity up more (at least turn the knob in more) than a Mag equiped with a level 7. I know you don't have the level 10, but thats what it sounds like. From what I've read, this is pretty common when switching from Co2 to compressed air, and from level 7 to level 10, or on Mags that have a few miles on them. Also I would replace that thick disc that Scott was talking about.