I've got a emag project I've been working on, am in the last stages of tweaking and tuning this fun/bad monster. It's a "faux" emag, looks 95% like the real thing, would think it was unless you knew what to look for. But it's mech only, no electronics. Has all black emag stuff on it except using intelliframe, RT sear. My emag valve came with the .712 pin...which showed unreal runaway reactivity in mech. I bought a .750, still had intermittent runaway reactivity. then went to a .770, which is now sluggish and the valve doesn't recharge fully, has significant shoot down.
suggestions? .760? .765? maybe just carefully dremel and polish down the .770 pin?
I have an RT parts kit on the way, along with a power tube spacer kit. I'm not a fan of L10, and have NO ball breakage problems with L7 foamie and plastic nubbin. so valve will be rebuilt soon.
With the .750 pin in the on/off, the trigger pull is like a mouse-click (when it's not being overly reactive), a very slight "tap" on the trigger and it shoots.
My own thoughts are to wait on the RT parts kit, do the rebuild on the emag valve, see how it works with the .750 and .770, and then if needed, to dremel and polish down the .770 to get the trigger and reactivity where I want it. Any better ideas on how to shorten the pin length?
One other thing I've noticed is that switching the black quad o-ring with a white on/off o-ring makes the valve seem a bit more reactive.
Not gonna go the ULT for the on/off, though the valve is able to accept it. Why mess with the ULT if I can get a mouse click trigger pull?
Thanks in advance for your input.
suggestions? .760? .765? maybe just carefully dremel and polish down the .770 pin?
I have an RT parts kit on the way, along with a power tube spacer kit. I'm not a fan of L10, and have NO ball breakage problems with L7 foamie and plastic nubbin. so valve will be rebuilt soon.
With the .750 pin in the on/off, the trigger pull is like a mouse-click (when it's not being overly reactive), a very slight "tap" on the trigger and it shoots.
My own thoughts are to wait on the RT parts kit, do the rebuild on the emag valve, see how it works with the .750 and .770, and then if needed, to dremel and polish down the .770 to get the trigger and reactivity where I want it. Any better ideas on how to shorten the pin length?
One other thing I've noticed is that switching the black quad o-ring with a white on/off o-ring makes the valve seem a bit more reactive.
Not gonna go the ULT for the on/off, though the valve is able to accept it. Why mess with the ULT if I can get a mouse click trigger pull?
Thanks in advance for your input.
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