Short Spring at 295fps?

[Carbon Blue]

Just wondering my valve sometimes has problems keeping its consistency at the local field i play at (FPS max at my field is 295). I would get readings from 260-280fps on the chrono. Here is my setup

Xvalve
lvl10
2.5 carrier NO shims
Red Spring=Shortest Spring
ULT- 6shims
Intelliframe w/Rtpro sear

I would crank my velocity adjuster up and it would still have problems getting consistent readings in the 280-290 range. My question is, should i switch to the medium spring?
Is the medium spring less efficient on air than the short spring?

[Alpha]

red isnt the shortest spring.. The gold one is like an inch shorter then the rest.

[Carbon Blue]

red isnt the shortest spring.. The gold one is like an inch shorter then the rest.

then i take that back

i have a gold, red, and grey springs. So after setting all 3 springs side by side it seems as if the red is the middle spring. Will switching to the longest spring affect my efficiency on air since theres more of a resistence the spring gives?

[Alpha]

longer spring - more efficient.

The reason being is this..

There are two big ways to adjust your velocity. You can adjust it by the regulator (all mag valves have a built in integrated regulator..), or by the springs. When I say regulator, I mean the velocity adjuster in the rear of the valve. That is a regulator.

More spring tension means more force.
More air pressure means more force.

Either way will work, but you get more efficiency if you adjust it by the spring.

If your like me and you like reactivity , you might want to adjust it by the regulator. Put the shortest spring in, and turn up the reg as high as you can get it without going over your fields velocity restriction. Throw in a few mre shims and you can have 17+bps rapidfire on an adjustable tank!

This allows more air into the marker, and gives you a better refresh rate, and more reactivity in an RT style valve.

It will give you more of a tendancy to have bolt sticks, however. If you have a Level 10 (which I'm assumign you do), you may want to retune it and give it some fine tuning with shims.

[atm743]

the red spring is made for 300 fps. now with the ult i had problems using it like the bolt will stick

and i had to put like 3-4 shimms in the powertube tip

really if i were you. get your large spring (grey long one) and cut the top off to make it less stronger than it should be lighter on paint and keep up


NOW and other reason is that your tank dosent recharge fast enough to shoot fast at 295 fps

i have a flatline tank and when the volocity is higher on the gun theres a bigger drop of time when the tank recharges.

soo really it could jest be your tank.

also i never play right at the feild limit i go below

like my place is 280 i shoot about 260-270

that will help if you turn down your volocity and put a smaller sping or a cut spring.

i use the old school pre cut level 10 spring that they dont make anymore on my e-mag

its great on paint and i can shoot fast at 275

[Carbon Blue]

i doubt its my tank ive got a 68ci 4500psi max flo tank with an output psi of 850-900psi.

[athomas]

Most consistency issues are caused by paint that is odd shaped or inconsistent in size. Other causes could be something sticking in the valve. This usually only shows up for the first few shots and smooths out as you shoot.

If the paint is inconsistent, use a barrel bore that is larger than the paint. It will even out the inconsistencies.

The short gold spring is the most efficient spring in the level 10 setup. The longer the bolt spring, the more inefficient the gun becomes. The longer springs cause the gun to require a higher chamber pressure to shoot the same fps. This results in the bolt being forward longer which expells air which is not used to accelerate the ball. This air is wasted and makes the gun more inefficient.

[Carbon Blue]

thanks, ill switch back to my red spring (medium) and hopefully go to a bigger bore size. Now that i think of it i was using cheap house paint (25$ a case)