more emag problems

[johnson88]

alright i was trying to take out the trigger and i took out the selector swicth and lost the ball bearing so i was "o crap" but i put it back in correctly without the bearing and still worked in all modes. So i said hey great so i went to the field and it died on me randomly all day. I think some of this has to do with my crappy beavertail that is stripped a bit and steel breaded hose. So i was mad cuz i wasted money at the field and didnt get to use my gun. So just about three minutes ago from when i posted this i was shooting it i got some ball chops even tho i have level ten and it made a weirdnoise every once in a while that was like pffff. So what could be the cause of ball breakage? and maybe if its not the asa the random dieing on me?

I have the small spring for my level x and i have a green bumper but it is not stuck down should it be? And how would that be done?


thanks guys

[MonsterMag]

Aight , find that ball baring , or get one from agd, you should have it in there.

2. use vice grips to get your ss line off.

3. Check your breech, detent ,anyrhing that could cause the ball to break. test your level 10 out with a battle swab or a stick. Make sure it is tuned.

4. The bumper is a greenish color , you can superglue it down if you want to extend the life of it.

If you need more help just let me know

[VFX_Fenix]

If you're using the short spring I'd be willing to bet that your LX isn't tuned propperly. Short spring should get you to around 250fps-ish and your LX will start to loose its effectiveness as you climb away from that number. I'm also willing to bet that if you have a ULE body and you haven't chrono'd your E-Mag that the reason you're getting ball breaks and chuffs is beause your operating pressure is too low OR you have lube on yous bolt stem that's causing the o-ring in the carrier to grab, both of which will cause you to partially fire a ball on a chuff and the next ball that you actually shoot come through and break it.

First thing's first, grab a chronograph if you can OR just start slowly cranking up your adjustment nut until you can shoot paint without getting those "pfffffft" sounds. Shoot slowly at first then try railing on it for a little bit and if no chuf***e or breaks, you're good. Next step is to see if the LX is in fact tuned. Personally I like using someone else's finger for this test BUT a paintball stuck to a piece of tape works too (be sure you do this somewhere that you won't get in trouble if you accidentally shoot the ball off the tape) and lower the ball into the breach and try to make the bolt chop it. if the bolt doesn't chop it then you're LX is good to go. If it does chop it change the spring to the medium silver spring and try again. Recheck that you can actually reliably shoot paint in this setup as well.

To me this sounds like a Level 10 tuning problem and should be pretty easy (if not time consuming) to straighten out.

I'm also curious... "beaver tail"? The Automag doesn't have one of these that I'm aware of unless you're talking about the stripping bolt that holds the valve in.

The bolt bumper doesn't need to be glued down and should just sit up agains the valve body, the bolt will keep it in place.

[johnson88]

Aight , find that ball baring , or get one from agd, you should have it in there.

2. use vice grips to get your ss line off.

3. Check your breech, detent ,anyrhing that could cause the ball to break. test your level 10 out with a battle swab or a stick. Make sure it is tuned.

4. The bumper is a greenish color , you can superglue it down if you want to extend the life of it.

If you need more help just let me know

is it nessassary(sp) to glue it down? but what will happen if i dont get the ball bearing and just lock it in e mode(an non permant lock like tape)?

and a beavertail(maybe not correct word) is this (the circled part )

[MonsterMag]

I think some of this has to do with my crappy beavertail that is stripped a bit and steel breaded hose.

So is the tank threads stripped or the Hose/line that goes to the marker?

[johnson88]

So is the tank threads stripped or the Hose/line that goes to the marker?

the tank threads are not stripped thank god lol!!! its just with my ASA if you dont screw it in to a certain point it will not work it is dumb so ill get a new one of those like a check it unimount and some macro thnks guys!

[MonsterMag]

yeah , most duckbills and asas are crap , I have a cp rail with emprire on/off. Works great .

[VFX_Fenix]

is it nessassary(sp) to glue it down? but what will happen if i dont get the ball bearing and just lock it in e mode(an non permant lock like tape)?

and a beavertail(maybe not correct word) is this (the circled part )

No, it isn't nescesary to glue down the bumper and I'd imagine its probably beter if you don't. The Circled bit is called an ASA/Duckbill and will do their job just fine. A Beaver Tail is that thingy on the back of an Autococker to keep you from getting whacked in the face by the back-block.