Mag newbie

[counterstrike53]

Hey guys any input is really appreciated. Try to talk newbish with me, i barely have any experience with mags. The only reason i have one is because i got one from my uncle, but im really happy i have a mag now.

Setup: Minimag with RT valve and some sort of dye frame with double trigger (well there is more but thats all that is important)

Before i had my mag, i decided i was going to get into the tourney scene. Well, after playing speedball with my spyder i decided i should purchase a new marker first. So one day i go to my uncles and he gives me this mag. Its great. But i know NOTHING about it... so heres where the questions start:

How can i tell if i have a lvl 10 installed? My uncle obviously didn't know anything about the gun either, and he said he just had his buddy whip him up a "good" marker and bought it from him. I think i might but there is no foamie on the bolt. but alot of people complain about powerfeed mags chopping, but i've only chopped once. So how can i tell if i have lvl 10 or not??

Also, i was recently shooting around with my mag and i noticed that i shortstroked like no other. Is there anyway to stop the short stroking? I know there are more recent frames than my dye frame... maybe that would stop the shortstroking?

I also asked on another paintball forum if my valve could take the ULT trigger kit. Well, some people said yes... some people said no. Once again i have a retro valve. Is there ANY way to get my trigger pull less excruiciating?? lol okay its not THAT bad... maybe an adjustable tank would get the pull down if the pressure was turned down to around 500 psi??

is there a way to get a ULE body to accept twist lok barrels?? I really want a ule but i want my awsome boomstick that my uncle gave me.

and over the chrono was nothing to brag about... i chornoed (using boomstick, really good paint, and a full tank of nitro) +/- 10 or 12 fps sometimes! i thought the retro valve was supposed to be awsome!

once again any input is appreciated, please somebody un-newbie me!

mike

[Jaan]

Level 10 bolt will have a foamie. The other way to tell is to stick something in the breech and see if the gun will "chuff" meaning the bolt won't go all the way forward but will hit the obstruction and reset. Since you probably don't have a level 10 bolt, I wouldn't try this test with a body part or anything like that, but use something soft like a rolled up peice of paper. You don't have one, don't worry about it lol.

Don't shortstroke. Just don't do it. OKay, you might like an Intelliframe more than that Dye double trigger, they're really nice. If you could get your hands on an electro frame though that would be cool ... you can use one from a spyder. Search for "spydermag".

You should be able to use the ULT. Mags need an input pressure of 800 psi to run nice. I'm assuming you're using HPA too ... that valve needs it. Well it can be run on CO2 but I won't even get into that whole debate ... just use HPA.

Someone makes a 'Mag to 'Cocker adaptor, but I've never ever heard of someone makeing the opposite. What's wrong with the stainless body?

[counterstrike53]

You can use a spyder eframe on a mag!!!!!????? dude. that would solve all problems, including shortstroking, and it would def increase speed. im very interested in this... could someone give me a link with detailed instructions?

edit: people said the stainless steel retro valve wont work with the ult because it only has one O ring somewhere on or in the valve...

[MoneyShot]

hey counterstrike, do you play counterstike. Im a pwnt at that game HEEHEE

[athomas]

If the bolt doesn't have a place for the foamy, then it isn't a level 10. If it does, then check the back of the bolt stem. It will be stepped down to a smaller diameter.

The dye frame should be fine. They work ok on a mag.

If you want to stop the short stroking, make sure the valve is clean the bolt spring is fresh. The bolt spring is a consumable item. It will wear out and you will get bolt stick which acts like short stroking.

Your retro valve may take the ULT or it may not. Older valves won't while newer ones will. Check the on-off assembly. If it takes 2 o-rings above the on-off top, then it will take the ULT. If it only takes 1 o-ring, then you can't use the ULT.

The only way to decrease your trigger pull is to put in a ULT. A level 10 bolt helps some as well. Increasing or decreasing the input pressure has no bearing on the trigger pull but does affect the charge rate and the reactive trigger effect.

The ULE bodies are not designed to accept the twist lock barrels. You would have to completely mill out the ULE breach area because the twist lock barrels have the breach built into them. The ULE body would then be too weak.

If you are getting inconsistent readings at the chrono, try a larger bore barrel. It usually indicates inconsistently sized paint, even if it looks good. A larger barrel is more forgiving on this type of paint than a tighter bore.

[counterstrike53]

my bolt spring was soooo rusted that it actually wanted to kinda stick to the bolt when i tried to take it off. i guess i need a new one. where is the on/off assembly on the valve?

[VFX_Fenix]

When you pull the valve out of the back of the body, if you look at the bottom of the valve you'll see a square brass plate with a round stainless steel button in the middle. That's the On/Off assy and you can easily remove it by taking your fingernails on either side of the plate and gently pulling up on it. You'll end up with a cylinder of brass with an o-ring on it that has a seam near the bottom where the two halves separate.

What you're looking for is either s single white o-ring either stuck in the valve or on the very top of the On/Off or a black o-ring that looks more like a washer. If you have the black kind you can stick a ULT in your valve to replace the RT On/Off, if not, you'll need to send your valve to someone like Tunaman to have it milled to accept the ULT if, and only if, you want to use the ULT kit.

[counterstrike53]

thanks man. ^
im gonna go see if i can accept the ult right now
oh and how much does it cost to get the valve milled incase i can't get the ult?

edit: just checked out the valve. can't use the ult. i have a white o ring in the valve and a white o ring under the square bronze plate (is there an actual name for the plate?) what part of the valve wont permit the ult to work or fit? i think i'd prefer to do the milling myself unless it is very difficult, knowing that tuna probably doesn't offer accidental damage coverage... where can i get instructions on where to mill?

but i'd still like to know how much tuna charges for the milling...