I know there is something I have to replace but when ever I turn my velocity over 200, the hole in the back were the allen wrench goes leaks air. I know this is a common problem and I need to replace something but I forget what it is...Can someone help me? Thanks
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Level 7 Automag 68 Classic
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I'm guessing you have a Level Ten kit. If so, use a shorter spring.
What's happening is that your pressure is too high, causing the safety to leak out the rear of the valve. using a shorter/lighter spring will allow you to get your velocity up without such high pressure. -
If you are venting at 200 and above, you need a new reg piston, not a lighter spring.Comment
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Agreed. You need a new regulator piston assembly.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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Mine started doing that one time and I got away with taking the reg apart and cleaning it really good and reassembling it. I would try that before I started ordering parts.Comment
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Same here.I took mine apart,removed the reg piston and found a small peice of metal in there.Took it out and cleaned it.Oiled it and reassembled with a problem since.Good luck.TAC-ONE Camomag,Retro Valve w/LVL-10,milled RT-Pro rail,E-mag battery pack,KAPP stubby dropzone,CP on/off, 16" Stiffi and it's bewy,bewy qwiet
Richie's feedback
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I'm having a similar problem, but at the other end of the spectrum. I just bought a Tac One and took it to the Michigan Monster Game. I had disassembled the marker, cleaned and oiled it prior to use.
It worked fine the first day of the game... consistant velocity at the chrono... 278, 278, 279, 278, 278.
I wiped it down, cased it, and left it alone until the following morning. I made no adjustment to it at all.
The next morning, I went to chrono again, and I was shooting 393...
I tried to adjust the velocity, and it wouldn't drop below 360, and it started venting out the back. It didn't matter which way I turned the adjuster, it contiued to leak while there was pressure on the gun.
Setup for the gun is Tac One with Q-Bow kit from SpecOps, remote with Pro Connect, and a Crossfire 850 psi preset tank. I put almost a case through it Saturday without a hiccup.Comment
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If after the cleaning, the gun velocity won't go down, it indicates that the regulator seat o-ring is leaking. Maybe a piece of dirt got in it, maybe it is damaged, or maybe it is just out of place.Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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I'm having the exact same problems with my brand new tac-one. Does someone have a good step-by-step in breaking down the valve for cleaning? I already took the two halves apart and it "looked" clean. I was unable to budge any other part out of it (like the little silver pin in the brass-colored dish). I've been all over this board and haven't found anything about the proper procedure to breaking down the X-valve "safely" in such a way that I won't damage anything.Originally posted by athomas
Incidentally: Which o-ring is the regulator seat o-ring? The blowup diagram of the valve is only labeled in numbers, but without a description.
Sorry for being such a n00b :) but that's what I am wrt mags.Last edited by TAC-ELF; 08-02-2005, 01:38 PM.Comment
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Click on the white o-ring that fits over the silver pin in front of the back half of the valve..Except for the Automag in front, its usually the man behind the equipment that counts.Comment
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man.. Im watching top gun and goose just died.. It gets me every time
Anyways, get yourself a pair of strap wrenches, and just crank the valve halves apart. After that, its pretty easy, check the condition of all your seals and o-rings and stuff. This may be a good time to make use of an o-ring kit.
"Ask not what your country can do for you; ask what you can do for your country." -JFKComment
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Just one doubt I have: Unscrew just the two parts (those that have - on it) or the front part(the air chamber that pushes the bolt forward) too? I did try to unscrew that part, and it looked pretty well stuck, so I stopped trying before i damaged something.Originally posted by Alpha
In fact I also didn't have the correct tools with at that time )
I'm asking to be sure if there's anything inside of that front part that needs maintenence, and if it is dismountable :)Comment
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Originally posted by gothsqwd
It's leaking out the back of the marker, NOT the bolt.
He needs to get a new reg piston.
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So what's the fix if the marker is brand new? I've taken the valve apart, cleaned it, oiled it -- everything looks fine with no signs of wear, dirt, grit, whatever. Still, occasionally I'll get a little leak out the back of the valve through the velocity adjusting allen-head opening.Originally posted by jewie27
Spring: Smallest that came w/ my Level10
Velocity adjusted to average about 275fps
Level10 tuned properly.
ULT assembly tuned to a nice light feel -- only 2 shims.Comment
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If it's brand new, the only reason for it to leak out the back is because of very high velocity...
I don't see a reason for that to happen. I've had my mag for 5 years without any problems.
I assume you have a X-Valve. Remember that chronoing a X-Valve is different that chronoing a standard Automag valve.
On a standard valve you do it like any other marker. Just place the barrel on top of the chrono with your barrel 2 inches in front of it and fire.
With a X-Valve you fire a shot, hold the trigger back and quickly release a shot over the chrono. This simulates rapid firing. Since the valve recharges so fast, it should be tested this way. To test a X-Valve like a normal valve would give you incorrect readings.
What kind of oil are you using?
What's your setup?Comment
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