Step by Step Disassembly of X Valve & Lvl 10?

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  • Dead Eye
    Go Hard or Go Home!
    • Jun 2005
    • 68

    #1

    Step by Step Disassembly of X Valve & Lvl 10?

    I recently bought my first 'Mag, and I'm having some problems with it shooting hot and venting out the back. Is there a post anywhere that lists the steps for disassembly (preferrably with pictures)?
  • NadeKilla
    Kill'em with Nades
    • Jan 2005
    • 149

    #2
    Originally posted by Dead Eye
    I recently bought my first 'Mag, and I'm having some problems with it shooting hot and venting out the back. Is there a post anywhere that lists the steps for disassembly (preferrably with pictures)?
    your velocity screw might be too far in screw it out some and it mgiht fix it

    Comment

    • Dayspring
      aka- The Day Wang

      • May 2001
      • 9664

      #3
      What spring are you using for the level 10? Too long a spring will cause you to turn up the velocity too much, causing the hot shots and the venting.

      Comment

      • SpitFire1299
        :P
        • Jun 2004
        • 1765

        #4
        Most likley its the spring or the velocity is set to high.


        I made a little guide for you.. it may not help, but its got a lot of basic information in it.

        Its pretty simple.. you take off the thumb screw(the silver screw holding the frame on), while you un-screw it, make sure you dont let the valve go flying! Then.. take of the bolt, and you will see the "power tube", wich has all the level 10 parts in it. To take that apart, you will need to remove the gold colored tip, called the "Power tube tip". Then in there are a bunch of level 10 parts.

        Parts List:

        1. Backing washer
        2. Power tube o-ring
        3. Carrier O-ring
        4. Carrier
        5. Shims
        6. Power tube O-ring
        7. Power tube tip
        8. Superbolt
        9. Main spring


        From experience, AGD has put together these quick set of instructions that should be a good starting point for you to your Level 10 Mod up and running. For more detail instructions, see below.

        1. Take the guts out of your power tube and put them in a bag along with your old bolt.

        2. Install the backing washer (1)

        3. find the carrier (4) that has two grooves cut in it and install a power tube O-ring (2) and lightly lubricate the power tube oring and the black carrier O-ring (3)

        4. Using the end of a pen cap push the carrier, O-ring first, into the power tube.

        5. Drop in TWO shims (5) and make sure they are sitting flat.

        6. Holding the valve upright, screw in the power tube tip (7) and tighten.

        7. Find the middle length bolt spring (9). This one can be identified because it has one coil cut off the end. Put the end with the coil cut off on the bolt first so the end without the coil cut off is hanging off the end of the bolt.

        8. install the bolt on the valve, assemble into the marker and gas up.

        9. The marker may or may not be leaking down the barrel. If the marker does not shoot, turn up the velocity until it does so consistently every time you pull the trigger. Fire the marker a few hundred times to wear in the O-ring while you let it leak.

        10. Now that you have the O-ring settled in, switch to the next size smaller carrier until the marker stops leaking down the barrel.

        11. Set your velocity to 280-300 and you should be good enough to use the marker as is.



        Now.. if you look at the bottom of the valve, you will see the "on/off assembly". The "on/off assembly" can be removed with your fingers. There are usually 2 on/off assemblies in an xvalve. The "ULT" and the regular on/off. In there are different size pins. The pin should be .750 (emags are .712).

        Thats all i can think of.. I hope i helped a little bit. :)

        Comment

        • TAC-ELF
          Registered User
          • Jul 2005
          • 72

          #5
          For steps 9 and 10, which O-ring on the carrier are you referring to? The white one or the black one? For step 10, I assume you mean to use the o-ring(s) that have been worn-in a bit, just on a smaller carrier?

          Sorry if these are dumb questions... I'm a n00b at mags. :)


          Originally posted by Need4Speed1299
          9. The marker may or may not be leaking down the barrel. If the marker does not shoot, turn up the velocity until it does so consistently every time you pull the trigger. Fire the marker a few hundred times to wear in the O-ring while you let it leak.

          10. Now that you have the O-ring settled in, switch to the next size smaller carrier until the marker stops leaking down the barrel.

          Comment

          • Dayspring
            aka- The Day Wang

            • May 2001
            • 9664

            #6
            The white one in the carrier. And yes, you use the SAME oring just in a different carrier.


            Originally posted by TAC-ELF
            For steps 9 and 10, which O-ring on the carrier are you referring to? The white one or the black one? For step 10, I assume you mean to use the o-ring(s) that have been worn-in a bit, just on a smaller carrier?

            Sorry if these are dumb questions... I'm a n00b at mags. :)

            Comment

            • TAC-ELF
              Registered User
              • Jul 2005
              • 72

              #7
              How about a good step-by-step disassembly of the XValve?

              Comment

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