Classic Valve Problems

[Webby]

Hello,

I've continued my ungoing struggle with my Classic Valve and it's erratic and illegal velocity problems. I've narrowed it down to the valve itself, I've canceled out the Level 10, ULT, and Trigger Rod length, so I think it could just be a bad valve. The regulator seat has been replaced aswell.

It doesn't want to shoot a hair under 330fps without not working right, and thats with the stock On/off and Level 7 Bolt, same thing with the ULT and the Level 10. Any higher and it shoots 350-390.

Does the high pressure piston wear out in the valves?
Or the Spring Pack?
Or perhaps could it be the Regulator Valve and Spring that are worn out?

[spsantos]

Hello,

I've continued my ungoing struggle with my Classic Valve and it's erratic and illegal velocity problems. I've narrowed it down to the valve itself, I've canceled out the Level 10, ULT, and Trigger Rod length, so I think it could just be a bad valve. The regulator seat has been replaced aswell.

It doesn't want to shoot a hair under 330fps without not working right, and thats with the stock On/off and Level 7 Bolt, same thing with the ULT and the Level 10. Any higher and it shoots 350-390.

Does the high pressure piston wear out in the valves?
Or the Spring Pack?
Or perhaps could it be the Regulator Valve and Spring that are worn out?

Clean the valve, maybe there's some dirt inside. With the lvl10, be sure that you're using the largest carrier that doesn't leak through the power tube. Are using HPA or CO2?

[Webby]

Clean the valve, maybe there's some dirt inside. With the lvl10, be sure that you're using the largest carrier that doesn't leak through the power tube. Are using HPA or CO2?

Valve's clean as a whistle.

I'm using the 1.5 Carrier, the largest that doesn't cause a leak.

I'm using HPA, at an 800psi Input

[Webby]

As mentioned in my first post, the regulator seat has been replaced. I'll replace the Piston Assembly and the Spring pack, hopefully that will solve my problems.

Thanks for all the help

[Shane-O-Mac]

Dont just go and throw parts at it.

Do replace the seat and look closely at the reg pin, make sure it is absolutely straight. It sounds like the reg isnt regulating (creeping up)..........Replacing the piston wont change that, unless it has scoring on it and is sticking in the bore and not letting the spring do its job, But that is unlikely.
Also, dont assume that the seat you just replaced is good, sometimes a new one is bad as well.
Again, Check the reg pin and seat. if you want to throw some parts at it , throw a reg pin in there and another seat. Make sure you lightly lube the piston with airgun oil before reinstalling also.

Shane-O

[Webby]

I checked both the reg pin and seat, both appear to be in good shape, no knicks, scratches or bumps.

I'll test it this saturday, if it still 'causes problems I'll start ordering in parts.

[Shane-O-Mac]

Just because the seat and pin, doesnt "Appear" to have any flaws, doesnot mean they dont. Trust me, i have thrown parts at a mag to the tune of $100 or so, and didnt fix the problem, because the seat didnt appear to have a problem. BUT it was the seat and pin on mine. SO, how much would a seat and pin cost, VS, a new piston, and spring pack? You want to make sure the heart of the reg is good, before replacing other parts. I highly doubt your piston is the source of the problem.

Ok, another thought of something to check, pull out the spring pack, try to roll the bellville springs with your fingers, or try to wiggle the up and down. Do they roll or wiggle up and down? If so your spring pack maybe worn out, But they have to move ALOT, for it to be worn out.

Bottomline, As I have learned from experiance, Diagnose the problem first, THEN buy parts.....


Shane-O

[Stoble]

In your post you said you tested your gun with the lv.7 parts. Did that include the old main spring (black)? Which main spring have you been using? If the red or silver, try the gold or the old lv.7 black one.

[Webby]

In your post you said you tested your gun with the lv.7 parts. Did that include the old main spring (black)? Which main spring have you been using? If the red or silver, try the gold or the old lv.7 black one.

I put the whole entire valve/bolt assembly back to original classic spec's.

I'm going to attempt the gold spring or maybe even the original spring on the level 7, who knows, maybe it will work.

[Stoble]

it should help quite a bit! It takes more force to overcome a longer spring. Depending on how worn your old lv.7 black spring is, your gold spring from the lv.10 kit is your best bet.

[Soopa Villain17]

buy a new valve , u can get one for 50 bucks

[Webby]

buy a new valve , u can get one for 50 bucks

Apparently your mind doesn't think outside the box, or should I say the wallet. Remember that everyone doesn't have limitless amounts of cash, and have bills to pay, so forking out $50 when a $10 part will resolve the problem is just plain nonsense.

[jamesmbaldwin]

Either your spring or power tube O-rings are giving you too much resitances for low enough presures to shoot under 300fps.

[Webby]

I've got some good, and some bad news

First for the good, the Automag did work successfully at 290-300fps all day long using the shortest spring on the level 10.

Now for the bad, if I were to shoot past 2bps it would have horrible shootdown until they would drop 30 feet in front of me. I'm using a preset Crossfire 48/3000 at an 800psi output, ULT, Level 10 on a Classic valve but I thought that it could reach 15bps?

Even worse news, the Level 10 was chopping even when used with Xball Bronze and an Evolution 2 hopper.

[Stoble]

Hey Webby, First thing I would do is take out the ULT for now. You can mess with that later. I would try the following in this order:
1. Take out ULT
2. Put in stock on/off, remembering to oil the o-rings well
Then air up your gun and test it out. If problem remains, then
1. Try next larger carrier, Remember to use the same o-ring you've been using. Oil carrier o-ring real well. If it leaks then go back to what you were using.