Low Velocity LVL10

[Rambino]

So after some research on the matter, I have discovered that it is not unusual to have problems with LVL10 behavior at lower velocities.

I play at two indoor fields with velocities on 240 and 260, and have not been able to avoid either breaks or sticks with my RT Pro.

Does anybody have LVL10 settings that they are happy with at lower velocities? Are there any other tricks/hints to get my gun to work right at these lower velocities?

Thanks.

[spsantos]

So after some research on the matter, I have discovered that it is not unusual to have problems with LVL10 behavior at lower velocities.

I play at two indoor fields with velocities on 240 and 260, and have not been able to avoid either breaks or sticks with my RT Pro.

Does anybody have LVL10 settings that they are happy with at lower velocities? Are there any other tricks/hints to get my gun to work right at these lower velocities?

Thanks.

I hope this might help:

Usually when playing at lower velocities (<250), use the medium/long spring if possible, this is, if you can get the gun to shoot below 250 with that spring, less impact on the ball.

If you can't get the bolt to move with those springs, or it only starts to fire above that threshold, you just have the shorter spring to go on, that meaning it will be harder on the ball, what you can do here is adjust the "bleeding" point of the LVL10, meaning that you may have to remove/Add LVL10 shims to the power tube. It's a bit tricky process, but its doable.

[athomas]

At lower velocity settings, you will probably have to use the shortest bolt spring to ensure consistent operation. The carrier and shim setting will not change as long as it was set correctly in the first place.

A good rule of thumb is that the proper bolt spring will allow your gun to operate down to ~20 fps below your desired velocity setting. ie; if the field velocity is 250, your gun should be able to operate down to ~230fps before you experience bolt stick and the gun won't cycle.