LVl 10 tuning prob

[nevtangle]

I replaced my classic w/ an X valve. Everything is good except I can't use the longer springs that came w/ it for the Lvl 10
I tried w/ the red spring but it won't fire. I turned the velocity up and up but it just vents out the back.
I should be able to use the red spring right? Its the middle spring and it will be more gentle on paint than the short spring.
I'm using the smallest carrier and 3 shims now that its breaking in.
PLEASE HELP!!!

[11 Bravo]

Try going to the largest carrier that will work without leaking.

[nevtangle]

the smallest carrier is the only one that keeps it from leaking down the barrel.
I'll try the next size up but I'm pretty sure it will leak.
I'll get back in a few and let you know....

[nevtangle]

It leaks down the barrel with the next size up carrier What do I do?

[Alpha]

https://www.TheAlphaMag.com

Best way to do it if you dont know exactly what your doing is to start from scratch and use my guide

More shims or too large a carrier= Barrel leak
Not enough shims or too small a carrier= bolt stick

Lots of oil.

[Sumthinwicked]

nothing personal rtfm

[nevtangle]

nothing personal rtfm

I've read the F*@!'n manual It said -barrel leak use next smaller carrier. which I did and no leak. Thats why I'm usin the smallest carrier its the only one that doesn't leak down the barrel.
And I've added the shims to prevent bolt stick... I added a 3rd shim as it was breakin in because cause the bolt started sticking.

[Alpha]

Is this a new LX? Are you sure the leak is from the LX?

Take the O-ring on your current carrier, and toss it. Try a new one (always use the same O-ring when changing carriers, btw. Its called a carrier becuase it carries the O-ring).

Witht he new o-ring, Douse it in oil, gas it up, and hold the trigger down. The leak should stop.

Dont worry about leaking (try this at a field so you can get all day air). Just keep shooting. If it doesn't shoot with that carrier, change it up until it will shoot.

Again, dont worry about the leaking. Just get it so it will shoot. Once it does, fire a few hundred times (to break in the o-ring.. makes it soft and creates a better seal).

Once your O-ring is broken in, go ahead and tune it.

[Coralis]

I dont shoot a Level 10 , but i think you may need one of the new regulator pistons from what I understand they are set a higher pressure before they start to vent ( this higher pressure is needed to cause the level 10 to overcome the longer bolt springs.

Oops nevermind I just reread this and a saw it was an Xvalve and not a classic valve , its not an issue on the Xvalve

[nevtangle]

Is this a new LX? Are you sure the leak is from the LX?

Take the O-ring on your current carrier, and toss it. Try a new one (always use the same O-ring when changing carriers, btw. Its called a carrier becuase it carries the O-ring).

Witht he new o-ring, Douse it in oil, gas it up, and hold the trigger down. The leak should stop.

Dont worry about leaking (try this at a field so you can get all day air). Just keep shooting. If it doesn't shoot with that carrier, change it up until it will shoot.

Again, dont worry about the leaking. Just get it so it will shoot. Once it does, fire a few hundred times (to break in the o-ring.. makes it soft and creates a better seal).

Once your O-ring is broken in, go ahead and tune it.

Yeah its all brand new it came with my new X valve. I have shot a few tanks of air through it then I went out and played and put a case through it. its been working great w/ the short spring, but I wan to use the red spring.
I have been using the same o ring when I change carriers.
Maybe I'll start ove like mentioned. Go to a bigger carrier and a new o ring and get it to shoot and break in the new o ring.
Then tune it like I did before - leak down barrel = next smller carrier Right? Bolt stick = add another shim Right?
Thanks for the help I'll get back and let you know what happens...

[Alpha]

Think about it.... A rod goes through the carrier when you assemble it. If the carrier is too big, theres going to be space around the rod for air to escape, giving you a leak. If its too tight, and grips the rod too much, it won't be able to go back and fourth freely. I think you've got the jist.

[nevtangle]

Ok, I started from scratch and followed Alphas guide. Thanks by the way Alpha nice guide.
I ended up with the 2.0 carrier. The 2.5 leaks so I'm using the largest carrier that doesn't leak.
Here's where I'm confused, on Alpha's guide it says the red spring is the middle spring.

Guide says: Go and find the medium bolt spring. On newer level 10 kits, this is the long Red one (+2). You should also have a short bronzish colored one (+1), and a long silver one (+3). Use the red for now.

Later it says: If that fails to remedy the situation as well, try switching to the Red (longest) spring. A longer spring gives you less tolerance for ball chops, but more tolerance for bolt sticks (which is what you may be experiencing).
-pasted from Alpha's Guide

There are 3 springs included with new XValves. Gold, Red, and Silver---in order from shortest to longest. The gold is the most commonly used, but is the hardest of the 3 on paint.

Hope this helps!

So I guess the red is the middle spring according to Rogue and the first part of your guide. Maybe the second part is just a typo. I'm not trying to pick at you guide. I thought it was very helpful and I appreciate it, but the second part confused me (Red being the longest)

So either way I'll go w/ the red spring for now but just wanted to clarify this.

Thanks

[athomas]

Red spring is the middle spring.

When setting up the level 10, remove all shims. It makes it easier to check for leaks by removing any other factor that may cause seaking. The shims are only used to determine how far the bolt must move forward before the vent hole becomes exposed. This determines how far the bolt must move, in the event of a chop or jam, before the air can be released to allow the bolt to reset. That is the bolt stick that is talked about.

The next and most common bolt stick deals with a carrier that is too tight, preventing the bolt from moving at all, or preventing the bolt from resetting after a shot. This type is prevented by using a proper size carrier.

Sometimes, if too many shims are used, the vent hole becomes partly exposed and it requires a tighter carrier to close it off. Also, if the carrier oring is bad, it also causes grief by requiring a tighter carrier to put more pressure on the bolt piston, which in turn causes bolt stick.