ULE Trigger in Classic Valve
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More shims makes the trigger more reactive.
Yes, i did it just this weekend on my micromag. It was MUCH lighter.
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when i did have my mag a ULT in there was the ebst thing you could buy, made the trigger walkable, so yes it does drasticly lower the pull. i would recomend trying it for sure.1- 68 automag (CF 351XX) ULE, ULT, lvl 10
2- 68 automag (CF 287XX) ANS bolt and on/off
.:FRED:.
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You can do it, you're just much more likely to short stroke. If you have a tendency to pull the trigger fully rather than just tap it, you'll probably do alright.
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How many shims come with the ULT Mod? Since this is going into the classic valve, I hear that I may need to drop in 7+ shims in order for it to work.
Spitfire: I'm putting this into my 2000 Vert MicroMag as well. Would like to know what your settings are.
~Shingo~
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And the shorter the on/off pin.. the more reactive right?Originally posted by Arstronactualy shims simply adjust the length of the on/off pin.
Im not sure, just get like a ton of shims and play around with it. It works differently in all classic valves(thats why its not recommended for the classic by AGD). Also, shims dont really cost much.
ThePixelGuru has a great point. Its VERY easy to short stroke. The re-charge rate on the classic valve is pretty slow too. I get shoot down when i walk it after a couple seconds, so i have to pull it slow. But like i said, yours my be different.
Im sure its worth it. Although, on a my classic and micro, i really like the harder trigger pull so i dont get shoot down and chop, imo.
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IF you do the "spyder-mag" frame mod, you have to use the ULT, correct? would that work with a classic valve?
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Theoretically, but with a fair amount of shootdown. I wouldn't trust it.Originally posted by Scott HudnallIF you do the "spyder-mag" frame mod, you have to use the ULT, correct? would that work with a classic valve?
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