my poor spyder..

[AJInABox09]

this has happened with both the spyders ive owned.....i can shoot 7 shots or so going only about 10 bps and then it burps, so i have to recock it...over...and over...and over...and so on...also, i oiled my delrin acs...bad idea, its so swolen! can someone PLEASE help my with this problems....please?

[pachytriton]

umm...get a new bolt? Make sure you oil all the o rings properly.

[AJInABox09]

umm...get a new bolt? Make sure you oil all the o rings properly.

get a new bolt...i really wanted to avoid buying anything else...

[Ace12GA]

What model of Spyder do you own? What mods have been done to it? Whats it chrono usually?

Generally that happens with a spyder when the CO2 cannot expand fast enough. Fixes are as follows, generall speaking.

-Expansion chamber. If your spyder has a reg, dump it and replace it with a reasonable expansion chamber. If you don't like the expense of a new front block and expansion chamber, atleast drill out the regulator. You should also drill out the front block as much as possibly to increase gas flow rate.

-If your gun chrono's under 260 fps, you probably need a new spring, or to tighten the velocity adjuster. Spyders like to shoot 280 to 300, when they are not, usually not enough CO2 is being released, which means that when cool down happens, not enough volume will be released to operate the action.

-Bolt is sticking. The delrin bolt can swell, but really shouldn't generally speaking. I oil mine, and it never swells. Bolt stick can happen if your bolt swells, if you get some paintball shell in there, etc.. Most Spyders I fix for people suffer this problem because they have not been cleaned properly. You should run a squeegie through the body from back to front, and clean out all traces of paint and shell with a cloth or paper towel. You should do this with the feedneck and detent removed if you can. Clean them too. If you clean it up real good, and the bolt still sticks, its new bolt time. Try an aluminum ACS bolt next time, they work better, less blow back into the hopper.

That covers most of the usual problems. Is your CO2 low? A low CO2 bottle will also cause these problems. Although my guess is you are experiencing cool down, and are probably using a spyder with a reg. Expansion chamber all the way, or a vertical adapter. The Trinity front block with a bob long expansion chamber is a reasonable bit to install, that helps a lot.

Cheers.

[AJInABox09]

What model of Spyder do you own? What mods have been done to it? Whats it chrono usually?

Generally that happens with a spyder when the CO2 cannot expand fast enough. Fixes are as follows, generall speaking.

-Expansion chamber. If your spyder has a reg, dump it and replace it with a reasonable expansion chamber. If you don't like the expense of a new front block and expansion chamber, atleast drill out the regulator. You should also drill out the front block as much as possibly to increase gas flow rate.

-If your gun chrono's under 260 fps, you probably need a new spring, or to tighten the velocity adjuster. Spyders like to shoot 280 to 300, when they are not, usually not enough CO2 is being released, which means that when cool down happens, not enough volume will be released to operate the action.

-Bolt is sticking. The delrin bolt can swell, but really shouldn't generally speaking. I oil mine, and it never swells. Bolt stick can happen if your bolt swells, if you get some paintball shell in there, etc.. Most Spyders I fix for people suffer this problem because they have not been cleaned properly. You should run a squeegie through the body from back to front, and clean out all traces of paint and shell with a cloth or paper towel. You should do this with the feedneck and detent removed if you can. Clean them too. If you clean it up real good, and the bolt still sticks, its new bolt time. Try an aluminum ACS bolt next time, they work better, less blow back into the hopper.

That covers most of the usual problems. Is your CO2 low? A low CO2 bottle will also cause these problems. Although my guess is you are experiencing cool down, and are probably using a spyder with a reg. Expansion chamber all the way, or a vertical adapter. The Trinity front block with a bob long expansion chamber is a reasonable bit to install, that helps a lot.

Cheers.

i have a check it products assault block and a 32 degrees 6 stage expasion chamber....i have the acs bolt in my 05 pilot acs....i dunno what my guns running at...and i just filled it and it does it...and i used compressed air that that, a 68/45 crossfire hp tank....and it did the same thing...my xraider had a delrin bolt with the same asssauly block and xchamber on it, it had been halfblocked to make it top cocking...any other suggestions???

[peewee]

Might try getting a spring kit. Start playing with your spring setup. You can probably can get away with a lighter spring in the back. You will have to do it where you have access to a crono so that you know what your shooting. How many orings on the ACS, hopfully two. Do you have a spare bolt?

[Ace12GA]

I'm still curious what your gun is chronoing. It sounds like you are not getting enough gas into it. Which points to a weak spring, which means you should be chronoing low. My brother has a Fenix that chronos in the low 230's with the velocity adjuster cranked. I had to install a spring and shim kit to get it firing around 300. It used to do what you're describing, but not any more. I also drilled out the reg and the stock front block.

You should also check the hammer o-ring, if its damaged, or dry, it would let a lot of gas by.

[AJInABox09]

I'm still curious what your gun is chronoing. It sounds like you are not getting enough gas into it. Which points to a weak spring, which means you should be chronoing low. My brother has a Fenix that chronos in the low 230's with the velocity adjuster cranked. I had to install a spring and shim kit to get it firing around 300. It used to do what you're describing, but not any more. I also drilled out the reg and the stock front block.

You should also check the hammer o-ring, if its damaged, or dry, it would let a lot of gas by.

so if i put a shim kit?? whats that by the way, on my gun, could i keep my xchamber and assault block on there and it would work do you think?

[Ace12GA]

Shocktech makes these parts, a spring and shim kit.

http://www.canadianpaintball.com/main/access/shocktech/spyder.htm

Thats what it took to get my brothers Fenix to work properly after messing around with it for a month.

[master_alexander]

i think you should chrono it, take it apart, clean it, mabey polish the internals, lube it real well, make sure you have full air, sand down the part thats cut off, and make sure its put together correct.

[Cow hunter]

fix this problem all the time, sand a bit off the black thing in the loser internals in fromt of the bumper..... till you see a bit of silver, polish everything else, check the springs,take a bit off the bolt with HIGH GRAIN sand paper
/the real way to fix this problem is to move on from spyder
//maybe a cocker or a mag
///or if you really wanna stay simple(cheap) go for a diablo wraith

[nate2k191]

if you took it apart make sure you put the black rubber thing in after the bolt

[AJInABox09]

problem's fixed...somehow

[Cow hunter]

WHAT?! i just sent you my rather large guide on how to fix it!!!! do you know how hard it is to type with a broken wrist??