Emag w/ level 10 still breaking paint

[treeguy1]

Any ideas would be great. I've got a problem with my emag breaking paint on a consistent basis. The level ten is working (still "chuffs" on misloaded balls). I use only top quality paint (evil or marbilizer, etc.) The foamy on my bolt is still in place, and I'm only shotting 260fps. I replaced all o-rings on my valve just in case but no changes. I've been using both Empire loaders and an egg and have the problem with both.
I'm breaking almost 1 ball per hopper!! It's starting to piss me off.

[whistl3r]

if it chuffs on misloaded paint.. then how is it breaking? are you sure it isn't your barrel??

try a new barrel, and make sure your current one is on tight with an oring

[treeguy1]

The barrels are all ok. I tried that too. That's what I'm saying, it's not chopping balls...it's just breaking them on impact. I guess what I'm getting at is it seems that the bolt impact is too much, but I'm only shooting at 260fps.

[grEnAlEins]

You can try a longer mainspring and also a larger bore barrel or smaller paint.

[Kyle.Kimber]

Stick your finger in. Trust me

[BigEvil]

Just a few other things that would be good to know...

is it a powerfeed or verticle feed?
-If its a powerfeed, you may have the old style powerfeed plug. AGD upgraded it, sicne the older ones hindered feeding with forcefed loaders.

Cocker or twist lock barrels?
-twistlock check the nubbins on the barrel, cocker thread take out the ball detent and check it. They are cheap enough, maybe its a good idea to replace it anyhow. Make sure that it is sticking into the breech far enough. There should only be 1 oring on it. If you have 2 or an oring and shim then remove all but the one ring.

Also, if you have a ule or aluminum mainbody, remove the feed neck and look inside the breech for excessive wear. Ive seen guys with ule rails and mainbodies over tighten the front frame screw and 'twist' the body out of alignment.

One ball per hopper is way too much to be breaking. If you have eliminated the lvl10, the loaders, and type of paint then there is definately something going on with the gun.

It would also be helpful to know where they are breaking. Do you get any paint back up into the loaders? Is it all in the barrel?

let us know.

[canilive]

I notice that the bolt is pretty hard on paint when shooting at that velocity. I seem to always have problems when I play indoor. I use the recommended stock spring, when shooting below 260 and it is pretty hard on the paint. I ball has broke in my breech about 3 times in about a year of play, that way.

[BigEvil]

I notice that the bolt is pretty hard on paint when shooting at that velocity. I seem to always have problems when I play indoor. I use the recommended stock spring, when shooting below 260 and it is pretty hard on the paint. I ball has broke in my breech about 3 times in about a year of play, that way.

That is unusual. The last time I broke a ball was when a football shaped one got lodged in my warp breech. It took 3 or 4 wacks with the lvl10 before it broke. Other than that, I never have issues with any of my mags breaking paint.

[GoblinGreen]

I have had the same problem with the marbalizers recently, RP Scherer sent 4 pallets of marballizer paint to my supplier here is SA, I was the sucker to use it first and it ruined my day at a tourney and the entire batch was rubbish. RPS paid him to destroy them and sent over another load. I only use RPS premium in my markers now. Try shooting some premium, see if it helps.

[Tao]

Your lvl 10 might not be set right. The only sure way to check this is to put your finger in the breach and pull the trigger; if it bleeds it needs adjusting :P

On a serious note in my experience the "higher qualaty" paint is generally desired for tournaments (obviously) and many people prefer more brittle paint so that they never get a bounce off of an opponent. Some of this kind of paint I have experienced will even break from the bolt impact alone from a lvl 10 bolt (1 a game or every other game). When the paint is this brittle the valve will hit partially fed paint and reset as normal, but it will still break the balls or at least crack them and have them break after they feed fully and get shot from the gun.

Try some mid grade or low grade (but not Walmart low grade :P). 5 bounce paint or so from Tom's bounce test

[MoeMag]

I just had alot of trouble with my x-valve lvl10 chopping alot. I tuned the lvl10 the best I could, but what finnaly did it was replacing the o-ring in the powertube. Don't ask me why that did it but it did. Give it a shot, and good luck.

[athomas]

If you are getting impact breaks, not chops, then use a larger bore barrel. Quite often, poor quality paint or paint that is brittle but tight, will break as its pushed into a tight barrel.

A level 10, if properly setup will shoot even the most brittle paint. The level 10 bolt force can be made to be as light or lighter than any gun on the market.

[Kyle.Kimber]

Adjust Velocity

[slateman]

What barrel? Get a nice big bore one.

What about the trigger rod set up? I had a slight issue on mine where it was to long and the gun was trying to fire twice when I pulled the trigger. That and a not properly setup Level and a bad boomstick = breaking paint.

BTW - What is your level 10 setup? What carrier? How many shims?