Used my Mag for the first time today... have a few questions

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  • davidmoore714
    El Rojo Grande
    • May 2005
    • 33

    #1

    Used my Mag for the first time today... have a few questions

    Before I begin, I realize I could probably search for a while and find the answers to all these questions, but Im relatively new to this stuff so I figure asking them all at once might get more answers than piecing together the info on my own. Thanks in advance for your patience with me.

    I've been putting this mag together for several months now. Started with a classic mag I bought here from the buy/sell/trade section just to tinker with. Having only shot around with it in the backyard once or twice, I decided to upgrade a little. I ended up with an intellifeed frame, blade trigger, ULE warpleft body, warpfeed with an intelliwired revvy combo, RetroValve, and a level-10 bolt. I took it out to the field for it's first real game today and I learned a few things about mags real quick!

    First of all, I didn't realize that you have to release the trigger and let it return completely before pulling it again. I was trying to pull too fast and wasn't allowing the trigger to travel forward all the way. The outcome was kinda like a "chuff chuff" sound until I let the trigger out. On the next full pull, I got a nice blender effect with the 3 or 4 balls in the chamber. Is that normal? The long trigger travel will take some getting used to, but is there anything I can do to shorten it or speed it up? A ULT trigger pull kit perhaps?

    Another thing I noticed was the weight! I'm a stock class player most of the time, so I've gotten used to a small CO2 tank and no more than 50 rounds of paint. This thing weighs a ton! I just bought a new rail from Tuna... a classic rail notched out for the warpleft body and ULE milled down to 3 ounces. I need to install that and toss the butchered classic rail I'm using now, but that will only free up a few extra ounces. The body is already a ULE and light as a feather. My tank will be the next thing to go. Gonna toss the old steel tank for a fiber-wrapped 45/45. Any other place I can drop some weight?

    I was afraid the warpfeed was going to be overkill, but it really helped. Once I got the hang of the trigger pull I was getting some decent strings of shots. At some point during the morning my Revvy batteries died, but thanks to the warp I didn't even notice it until we broke for lunch. Im curious though. I heard the 12volt mod on the revvy would speed it up. Is that really necessary since Im running a mech? I dont think a faster-feeding warp would be of any real use to me. I could use an on/off though. I'm handy with a soldering iron but not good with electronics. Does anyone make a drop-in or solder-in switch kit with some basic instructions?

    I'll get some pictures up as soon as I clean it up and dig out the camera. Would appreciate some answers as well as any other input I can get from you experienced Automag Owners.
  • geekwarrior
    MIA
    • Oct 2005
    • 2581

    #2
    the x-valave is quite a bit lighter than the the rt valve, but the reactivity isnt quite as good...i still love m xvalve though. the fiberglass tank will help alot....and you'll get used to you mags weight soon enough,

    speeding it up: the ult will make your trigger pull lighter but you really have to make sure you pull it all the way or it will chuff. you can increase your input air pressure if you have an adjustable tank, and it will really make your trigger bounce like crazy(dont know if this is legal at fields, i play outlaw or private exculsively), a shorter on/off pin will also help, i found the .724 is better, they can be ordered from automag for $8 i think

    your lvl 10 also might need tuning, that may help a little with the trigger pull

    i'm not an expert, so others can back me up, hope this helps, enjoy your mag

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    • blitzmercenary
      Registered User
      • Jan 2002
      • 693

      #3
      soldering a switch into a warp is very easy. i found a nice small switch among my rc car stuff. all you have to do is cut the battery wire and splice in the wires from the on/off switch. its very simple and if you can solder at all, it shouldnt be a problem. i drilled two holes in the side of the warp. the switch had wires coming out of the top and the bottom so i put 1 hole on top of it and 1 beneath it then i glued the switch to the shell of the warp. it was a neat and clean job.

      here is a handy dany paint sketch. i really should go to bed if this is how im using paint...
      i hope that you will have as much fun laughing at it as i did.

      the wires from the battery/batteries may have gone in the top. it doesnt matter as far as i know.


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