E-Mag lowers on 68 Classic Valve

[SPECK]

If I were to buy this: http://cgi.ebay.com/AUTOMAG-EMAG-LOW...QQcmdZViewItem

Would it work with a classic mag body and 68 classic valve?

Just wondered.

[lifeguard_12_86]

it would be possible, but i would highly recomend that you dont do it, if you did you need a emag on/off valve, that and these are the old non ule lowers, plus you need a batery charger, which is about $80

[athomas]

It does mention that it does include the charger. It looks like a good deal.

The emag lowers will work with the AIR valve. You do need the emag on-off assembly, which will fit into the AIR valve. The classic body will fit, but you will have to grind a bit off the sides of the pim on the bottom of the body. The pim is the threaded nut welded onto the bottm of the body.

[nate2k191]

i wouldnt reccomend it because with a classic AIR valve you're not gonna be able to realize the full potential of the e-mag lowers. I don't think the valve will be able to handle around 13-15 bps.

[athomas]

The classic AIR valve can do ~16 pbs without shootdown if fired correctly. The great thing about electronic markers, is that you always get a clean pull without short stroking. Therefore, you would realize the full potential of an AIR valve. I say go for it.

[nate2k191]

The classic AIR valve can do ~16 pbs without shootdown if fired correctly. The great thing about electronic markers, is that you always get a clean pull without short stroking. Therefore, you would realize the full potential of an AIR valve. I say go for it.

cool, better than i though

[AGDlover]

yea... a 68valve on a emag sucks trust me on this one before i got my xvalve... i tryed it... the classic just wasnt made for a emag... plane and simple

[athomas]

I tried one on my emag and it worked great.

[Aslan]

follow-up question

What if the question changes to:

I have a Minimag body with an X-valve?

OR

I have a ULE body with an X-valve?

In other words, what I think is being said is that the lowers are too "powerful" for the Classic Valve, and you would minimally need the E-Mag on/off to get it to work. What I'm not clear on is, is it just the valve or is it the rail and mainbody as well?

Thanks.

[shades]

The recharge rate On a 68 automag is slower then a ReTro/RT/EMag/X valve. So your shot rate will be slower and you will probablely "chuff" alot of shots. Plus the RT valve resets the selonoid and trigger. You probably wont be happy with the results. Now if you had a RT Pro
sitting around........

[athomas]

The classic valve can handle around 16 shots per second without shootdown when done electronically. It can handle most applications just fine. The xvalve/retro valve is better but most people aren't capable of using its capacity without some sort of electronic firing assist.

The emag lowers and sear can fit on any mag with a rt pro rail. If you use a mag with a classic mag rail, then you need a micro-emag sear assembly which fits the same size sear pin as the classic mag rail.

The bodies don't really matter as long as they fit the rail you are using.

Make sure you use a .712" emag on-off pin if you do the conversion.