Ule Pull Kit

[FARMER00]

Can a ULE trigger pull kit be installed in the standard single trigger grip that comes stock on the RT ULE CUSTOM?

[rb211]

Yes. The ULT is part of the valve, not the grip so it will work.

[HamMan]

do it your self?

can you do it yourself with alnost no problem?

[NinjaoftheNight79]

can you do it yourself with alnost no problem?

For the sake of both of us, could you tell how too? I own a ULT, but I havnt gotten around to installing it. It looks easy, but I am not sure. Is it as easy as switching out the parts, or is there more to it?

[wanna-b-ballin']

it is extremely easy. just as easy as taking the bolt off.

take out the old on/off and the o-rings below it. then just put the ULT in. if the trigger is still bouncy, take the ULT out, unscrew the halves, then put in another shim, then put it all back together.

be careful with the shims, as they are very easy to bend.

[NinjaoftheNight79]

it is extremely easy. just as easy as taking the bolt off.

take out the old on/off and the o-rings below it. then just put the ULT in. if the trigger is still bouncy, take the ULT out, unscrew the halves, then put in another shim, then put it all back together.

be careful with the shims, as they are very easy to bend.

So there are shims within the ULT as there is in the powertube tip, or are you saying that if it is too bouncy, I should put another shim in the powertube tip?

[REDRT]

So there are shims within the ULT as there is in the powertube tip, or are you saying that if it is too bouncy, I should put another shim in the powertube tip?

Yes, there are shims for the ULT. They look the same as the Level 10 bolt shims but there is and correct me if I'm wrong .005 difference between the 2. The ULTs being half as thick as the level 10s. A stock on/off is bouncy. You can really feel the trigger bounce back on your finger tips. The ULT is a different on/off valve. It uses a very light on/off pin in conjuction with shims to space out the entire on/off housing(shortening the length the pin travels to fire) to achieve a very light trigger pull. Not as bouncy, but very easy to sweetspot the trigger for rapid fire. The more shims one is able to put in the lighter feeling it will be. Rule of thumb. Put in as many of the ult shims in as you can till it leaks (The ULT on/off that is). If/When it leaks take a shim out. Once you have as many shims in it as you can go and it don't leak, you are done. General rule is to start with 2 and work your way up. I think my brothers has 4 shims in his, but that is subject to the marker. Not every marker is the same. 2 shim may leak in some from the get go. And I've heard some have stuck all the shims in with no leak, but at that point it may not fire because the on/off pins travel maybe too short. Don't forget to lube the crap out of the ULT on/off valve when your breaking it in. Sometimes the valve pin riding on dry orings doesn't reset causing the marker not to fire. Oiling the on/off with a few drops of oil maybe 2/3 times a day the first few trips to the field will keep you from having to ask, "why is my ULT sticking"? I sure hope this clears up some of your questions... :)

[HamMan]

thanks

thanks that seems very simple. now i can save 30 bucks!

[Gen]

So is there a way to reduce the reactivity withoug sacrificing the light trigger pull? I've got 6 shims in mine, and with an 800psi tank, this this is crazy fast. I just want moderately fast but with a really light pull.

Thanks,
Gen

[SpitFire1299]

So is there a way to reduce the reactivity withoug sacrificing the light trigger pull? I've got 6 shims in mine, and with an 800psi tank, this this is crazy fast. I just want moderately fast but with a really light pull.

Thanks,
Gen

Thats a lot of shims! :)