lvlX spring question

[whistl3r]

it really seems like my lvl10 is much easier on paint when i use the red spring.. is this right or is it just my imagination.. i did the test where i lower a ball into the breach on a piece of tape.. and it stops on the ball when the spring is red, but with the stock spring it chops it.. i tried using the stock spring last week in a gmae.. and went to the chrono station and fired off a hopper, and got like 3 breaks.. (paint was old.. but they weren't barrel breaks).

so i switched to red and no more breaks and my lvl10 was catching balls all over the place..

i tried searching for the answer.. but what exactly are the performance differences between the springs?

[Dayspring]

Spring tension.

Gold is the stock spring.

Red is the next one up, more tension.

Silver is the longest spring with the most tension. (Also the most difficult to get working.)

[NinjaoftheNight79]

Spring tension.

Gold is the stock spring.

Red is the next one up, more tension.

Silver is the longest spring with the most tension. (Also the most difficult to get working.)

Nevermind. I thought it was the silver spring, but it was really the gold one. It kinda looks silver. Which is the best to have on there?

Previously:
(I bought my Tac-One not too long ago, and it came with the silver spring on it. How does this work? Should I change that spring or something, or shold I leave it there since its pre-tuned?)

[Dayspring]

If it's not broke, don't fix it.

[wanna-b-ballin']

the red spring works best in most situations. stick with the red one.

whether it stops on a ball or not depends on how stiff the spring is, because the bolt ahs to push against it.

[MoeMag]

[REDRT]

Bigger the spring the lighter it will be on the paint. The red spring is the most widely used. If you need to get down to 260fps at an indoor. The stock short one most likely will have to be used. What is your velocity set at now? or what is the standard where you are playing? Level10, 101. #1 Choose the largest carrier with out the use of shims that doesn't leak down the barrel. (remember no dots/lines(0) is carrier #1, a dot(.5)= carrier#2, line(1)= carrier#3, line/dot(1.5)= carrier#4, 2 lines(2)=carrier#5 and so on) (dots= .5 and lines=1) #2 Once you have that carrier start adding shims. When it leaks back off one shim so you have no leaks. Now you are forever done with that or at least till an oring wears to the point of leaking. Say you are shooting for 285/290fps over the chrono. Most likely the red spring is the best choice. If you already don't have it in, replace that stock spring with it. #3 Now to get that bolt to fire with a heavier spring your going to have to turn up the velocity. This is where the chrono comes in. Adjust till you reach the desired velocity and it should be great. If you are unable to reach your desired velocity and air blows out the back of the valve. Most likely the regulator piston assm is weak. Replacement is nessisary. The longest spring may not work for you. My emag I can, but in order to stay under 300fps it has to be under 80* outside and then it stays at 295/299fps. Over 80* and it will top 300fps. My emag is the only one of 4 in the family that can even use that spring and be under 300fps some of the time. The red one works in them all until you need to take it down past 270ish. Now I don't have all the facts about your problem with bolt stick and chopping, but it sound like it might not be set up as good as i could be and the short spring is pretty hard on the paint in the first place. I think if you follow my instructions or go to the lvl10 thread for referance. You can get the job done and be happy with your mag. I have faith in ya.