E/Xmag PredII/Mini Morlock install/guide

[REDRT]

Isn't there a screw holding the ACE board to the frame? If so that is the ground. Then your left with the two wires that should be easy enough to figure were to place them.

My question:
I see that the eye elements are soldered to a circuit board. This board then has 2 wires that run to the guns main board. They are mraked "5v" and "sig". I put a voltage tester on both of them. The 5v one gives a steady 5volts. The other (Sig) give a reading when you cover the eye.

My question then become: How do I take these two wires and properly hook them up to the Pred. Morlock board? I know that there
are 4 connectors for the eyes (2 for the emmiter, 2 for the
detector)

Curt's Answer:
There has to be a ground somewhere. Is it grounded to the frame of the gun?
It takes three wires to run an eye, minimum- +v, ground, and
sig.
In any case, you can just run the signal into the morlock's eye signal pin,
Basically hook the two wires up to the two normally used for the detector and you'll
be fine. Second make sure you have a ground path, any black wire on the morlock is ground.

-Curt

[flyingpootang]

Isn't there a screw holding the ACE board to the frame? If so that is the ground. Then your left with the two wires that should be easy enough to figure were to place them.

RdRt: Datsa right on da snozolla. The ACE grounds via the mounting screw

BigE: Since you verified the ACE Red = @ 5vdc Yellow = @ 5vdc covered and the ground is the mounting screw. I would say that you would only have to connect these 2 wires to the Pred board. Red to #4 orange emmiter +, Yellow = #2 green eyesignal, and ground is alredy done via the mounting screw, but that is just a guess. Ryan's from Logic posted in the AO dealers forum on how to connect the ACE to an Pred board towards the last 2 pages of the post on PredII installs. Instead of cutting through the traces of the board you can just tack on the 4 eye wires to the ACE's 4 legs. Keep us updated and may the Pred II gods smile on you

[Ydna]

Hey fellas, I hope you don't mind me upping this thread; I've got some stuff to add (at least some mindless tech banter).

I just got done installing my first Morlock in an E-mag. Firstly, I see some people are using the emitter eye to power the HES, and some are using the detector eye. Functionally, the detector is straight 5 volts from the board, whereas the emitter is 5v dropped down using a resistor. In my install just now I used the detector +5 source (white wire) to power the HES, but if people are using the detector (orange wire) and t's woring alright, then nevermind.

I ended up having to wire the grey Morlock trigger wire to the yellow HES wire, and the +5 from the board (to power the HES) to the red HES wire. By my reasoning this makes sense, if not for anything else since the voltage required to power a device is usually red (meaning the red HES wire should be that to power it, not the yellow wire). In the first post he mentioned the yellow wire being +5 when idle and grounding to 0 when firing, which signifies the switch has been "closed", same as the grey wire on the Morlock board.

Enough of that. All this talk of the ACE board interests me...but I don't have one available here. I've seen them, but I don't have one to dissect in front of me. I'm not sure how good the board will work with the stock reflective eye, but I can add that if it doesn't work so hot then you can remove the stock eye and install a Fairchild QRD1114 eye instead...I've found it to work best with the Morlock's programming. The QRD1114 is 3-mm x 6-mm, and 4.6-mm deep...so you may need to drill a wider hole in the body for it (stock eye is circular 4-mm).

The Mag I've got here didn't previously have eyes, so I will be adding those later in the week. I'll be using the QRD1114 under the chamber like the stock ACE boards. I'll post pictures later.

[flyingpootang]

Hey fellas, I hope you don't mind me upping this thread; I've got some stuff to add (at least some mindless tech banter).

I just got done installing my first Morlock in an E-mag. Firstly, I see some people are using the emitter eye to power the HES, and some are using the detector eye. Functionally, the detector is straight 5 volts from the board, whereas the emitter is 5v dropped down using a resistor. In my install just now I used the detector +5 source (white wire) to power the HES, but if people are using the detector (orange wire) and t's woring alright, then nevermind.

I ended up having to wire the grey Morlock trigger wire to the yellow HES wire, and the +5 from the board (to power the HES) to the red HES wire. By my reasoning this makes sense, if not for anything else since the voltage required to power a device is usually red (meaning the red HES wire should be that to power it, not the yellow wire). In the first post he mentioned the yellow wire being +5 when idle and grounding to 0 when firing, which signifies the switch has been "closed", same as the grey wire on the Morlock board.

Enough of that. All this talk of the ACE board interests me...but I don't have one available here. I've seen them, but I don't have one to dissect in front of me. I'm not sure how good the board will work with the stock reflective eye, but I can add that if it doesn't work so hot then you can remove the stock eye and install a Fairchild QRD1114 eye instead...I've found it to work best with the Morlock's programming. The QRD1114 is 3-mm x 6-mm, and 4.6-mm deep...so you may need to drill a wider hole in the body for it (stock eye is circular 4-mm).

The Mag I've got here didn't previously have eyes, so I will be adding those later in the week. I'll be using the QRD1114 under the chamber like the stock ACE boards. I'll post pictures later.

Sorry for the late reply I just got back from vacation. Any word on the Fairchild eye yet? I'd like to see the pics.. You got a great web site I've been looking around on there and you have some interesting stuff. If you need pictures or specs on a ACE let me know. I have one and it's in working condition.....

[Ydna]

Yep I finished with my install. My solenoid seems to cap out around 18-19 bps but I'm happy with it either way. I'll try to tweak it a little more though.

I ended up having to get a little creative with the anti-chop eye wiring. What I did was mill a slot in the bottom of the rail to allow the four eye wires to be tucked up above the frame. The notch can barely be mae out in this pic of the new eye harness...


Here's the eye in position.

You can't really tell from the pic but it's about half a millimeter below the very bottom edge of the breech, and I used a clear epoxy to cover the top of the eye. It's nice and smooth, and fills the hole so no paint or other crap will fit down there. If it came down to it I don't think it would be a problem for a small hole in the bottom of the breech (as long as there weren't any burrs, obviously).

I took a few moments to drop in a slide switch on the side of the frame, to turn the board on and off. Only detail there is making sure the switch doesn't contact any raw aluminum, since it grounds out through there. If you were to do this with a sealed switch then it'd be okay. The switch I used wasn't sealed, but I just wrapped it around a few times with a thin piece of electrical tape to insulate the contacts.



The board is mounted vertically in the frame so the LED can be seen through a hole in the back. I actually removed the stock surface mount blue LED and installed a 3-mm through-hole lense variety instead. I also taped some foam to the board to help hold it in position.
Whenever I mount morlock boards in frames I rarely end up actually "mounting" them in there. I just let them hang by the wires and it usually does the job. The only thing it'd evvect is bounce but the use of the HES in this gun takes care of a lot of that, I think.

Anyways...I think that's most of the details...if I remember anything else I'll edit the post.

[flyingpootang]

Yep I finished with my install. My solenoid seems to cap out around 18-19 bps but I'm happy with it either way. I'll try to tweak it a little more though.

I ended up having to get a little creative with the anti-chop eye wiring. What I did was mill a slot in the bottom of the rail to allow the four eye wires to be tucked up above the frame. The notch can barely be mae out in this pic of the new eye harness...

Here's the eye in position.

You can't really tell from the pic but it's about half a millimeter below the very bottom edge of the breech, and I used a clear epoxy to cover the top of the eye. It's nice and smooth, and fills the hole so no paint or other crap will fit down there. If it came down to it I don't think it would be a problem for a small hole in the bottom of the breech (as long as there weren't any burrs, obviously).

I took a few moments to drop in a slide switch on the side of the frame, to turn the board on and off. Only detail there is making sure the switch doesn't contact any raw aluminum, since it grounds out through there. If you were to do this with a sealed switch then it'd be okay. The switch I used wasn't sealed, but I just wrapped it around a few times with a thin piece of electrical tape to insulate the contacts.

The board is mounted vertically in the frame so the LED can be seen through a hole in the back. I actually removed the stock surface mount blue LED and installed a 3-mm through-hole lense variety instead. I also taped some foam to the board to help hold it in position.
Whenever I mount morlock boards in frames I rarely end up actually "mounting" them in there. I just let them hang by the wires and it usually does the job. The only thing it'd evvect is bounce but the use of the HES in this gun takes care of a lot of that, I think.

Anyways...I think that's most of the details...if I remember anything else I'll edit the post.

Looks great. I wish I could post pics of mine, but for some reason AO would'nt let me take a file from my desk top. I keep getting a file problem message. I like evey thing except the switch. Maybe you can mount in on a thin piece of plastic or something to make it look better, but great job anyway. I just used the pin to disconnect the battery mounted on my barrel condom to keep from loosing it. I also mounted my board so you can see the LED through the holes on the back of the grip frame. I hot glued the harness to the frame, so it free floats the board and its easy to remove. As for your marker being limited to hit 19-20 bps try and reverse the solenoid wires as posted by one of the other guys. The polarity dose make a big differance. If you put a compass on the noid and fire the marker the needle should point North/up and your ROF will be closer to 26 BPS although AGD test showed that the X can only do 22 BPS before any noticable skips. Another trick I did since I didn't use eyes (because of the Lvl10 bolt) is set the global ROF to 14 BPS and the eyes off to 12 BPS incase of any ball breaks in the breach. The eyes off mode can also be set higher or lower to your liking which gives you more flexability with the Pred board in your E/X mags.

[Ydna]

Ahhh, I will try reversing the wires. Now I have to go buy more paint....

I'm not really too fond of the switch either, but I was kindof excited to perform the install and didn't want to wait for anything better to arrive via mail. Same thing happened with that notch in the rail...I didn't have an endmill bit that size so i just did it with a regular drill bit. But you take your time and it works out.

Gluing the harness in place is a good idea. I'd just be afraid of redoing the install (or other unforseen activities) so I don't like to do things like that. lol

Anyways I'll post back about the solenoid polarity and see what's up. I made a video of the gun screwing up with the ROF set to 20 (I believe the halo was feeding about 19-20 bps, I haven't replaced the batteries in ages so I doubt it was cranking anything more).
What happened was the bolt was feeding successive rounds into the barrel then it would get a good recharged shot and would blow through all the shots in the barrel. Nothing was chopped, but all the paint would break at that point.

http://www.zdspb.com/media/video/predator_emag_toofast.wmv

I must admint my frame of mind is not as finely tuned for Automag operation as it is for some other markers, so diagnosing certain problems and their respective solutions takes me a bit longer...but hey, that's why I bought another mag to fool around with (haven't owned one for two years).

[BigEvil]

Ahhh, I will try reversing the wires. Now I have to go buy more paint....

I'm not really too fond of the switch either, but I was kindof excited to perform the install and didn't want to wait for anything better to arrive via mail. Same thing happened with that notch in the rail...I didn't have an endmill bit that size so i just did it with a regular drill bit. But you take your time and it works out.

Gluing the harness in place is a good idea. I'd just be afraid of redoing the install (or other unforseen activities) so I don't like to do things like that. lol

Anyways I'll post back about the solenoid polarity and see what's up. I made a video of the gun screwing up with the ROF set to 20 (I believe the halo was feeding about 19-20 bps, I haven't replaced the batteries in ages so I doubt it was cranking anything more).
What happened was the bolt was feeding successive rounds into the barrel then it would get a good recharged shot and would blow through all the shots in the barrel. Nothing was chopped, but all the paint would break at that point.

http://www.zdspb.com/media/video/predator_emag_toofast.wmv

I must admint my frame of mind is not as finely tuned for Automag operation as it is for some other markers, so diagnosing certain problems and their respective solutions takes me a bit longer...but hey, that's why I bought another mag to fool around with (haven't owned one for two years).

Drop me a line, I might be able to help you out with that. We are having similar issues arise with the Xmod software. Its mainly hardware related. Ill give you all the dirt.

[flyingpootang]

There has been a lot of questions about how to install a Pred II and where can a manual be found, so I updated this thread. If anyone has any questions either pm me or post here ...Enjoy

[p8ntbal4me]

I have scanned copies of the manual for the Morlock 10.0 Coded boards.

I also have the latest manuals for the last run of TAG/Predator boards.

PM me if you need copies of them.

~ P8nt

[thahouse]

What is the stock board programming for a pred morlock 07 kit?

[p8ntbal4me]

What is the stock board programming for a pred morlock 07 kit?

Do you want the list of settings that come pre-set when you get it?

~ P8nt

[thahouse]

I was curious what version of programming it had..since there is talk of the 10.0 programming...so i was curious what version i had.

But i do have the actual manual that came with the board, so im sure the modes are correct on there. Thanks tho!

[flampaint]

Yep I finished with my install. My solenoid seems to cap out around 18-19 bps but I'm happy with it either way. I'll try to tweak it a little more though.

I ended up having to get a little creative with the anti-chop eye wiring. What I did was mill a slot in the bottom of the rail to allow the four eye wires to be tucked up above the frame. The notch can barely be mae out in this pic of the new eye harness...


Here's the eye in position.

You can't really tell from the pic but it's about half a millimeter below the very bottom edge of the breech, and I used a clear epoxy to cover the top of the eye. It's nice and smooth, and fills the hole so no paint or other crap will fit down there. If it came down to it I don't think it would be a problem for a small hole in the bottom of the breech (as long as there weren't any burrs, obviously).

I took a few moments to drop in a slide switch on the side of the frame, to turn the board on and off. Only detail there is making sure the switch doesn't contact any raw aluminum, since it grounds out through there. If you were to do this with a sealed switch then it'd be okay. The switch I used wasn't sealed, but I just wrapped it around a few times with a thin piece of electrical tape to insulate the contacts.



The board is mounted vertically in the frame so the LED can be seen through a hole in the back. I actually removed the stock surface mount blue LED and installed a 3-mm through-hole lense variety instead. I also taped some foam to the board to help hold it in position.
Whenever I mount morlock boards in frames I rarely end up actually "mounting" them in there. I just let them hang by the wires and it usually does the job. The only thing it'd evvect is bounce but the use of the HES in this gun takes care of a lot of that, I think.

Anyways...I think that's most of the details...if I remember anything else I'll edit the post.

From the looks of the frame in those pictures it seems that I am actually the lucky owner of that frame with the morlock board in it now (the solenoid is in really bad shape, lots of corrosion all over the place and the board seems to be fried).
It would be very interesting to retrace how many owners this thing has gone through since then... (I live in Germany btw and bought it off a guy in Switzerland a few weeks back)
My hope was to check/fix the wiring on it and get the board up and running again but from the looks of it, it's fried. But, since I am getting a reading for current leaving the on/off switch I was hoping someone here could either:
* point me towards a board I could acquire in order to replace this fried one.
* let me know if he/she has a working morlock board (or knows someone), doesn't need it anymore and would be willing to sell it to me

Hope someone "in the know" about this sees this post and has mercy on me as I haven't been able to find anything on the web yet...

Thanks a lot in advance for any help

[Coralis]

You might want to start a WTB thread, there might still be a board or two out there that someone bought as a project that they never got around to.