E-mag E Mode Screwed

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  • JAKEtheJAB
    Registered User
    • Feb 2006
    • 58

    #1

    E-mag E Mode Screwed

    This was the description of my e-mag I bought off of e-bay:
    "Gun is in great condition but needs a new battery for use of electronic (E) mode. But is still completely functional on manual (M) mode. I have personally tweaked the trigger to achieve up to 13+ bps on manual mode alone. this trigger has what they like to call a "sweet spot"..."

    I should have been more suspicious about the battery thing. It turns out that the battery charges fine, but the gun does not respond when I hook the battery to it. I do not get a LED light or anything. I even had someone from automags.org to test my battery on their e-mag to verify that it works.

    Any ideas on what the problem may be?
  • Tunaman
    Specialized AGD Tech

    • Dec 2000
    • 8643

    #2
    back the center magnet out away from the frame and see if it lights up...let us know.
    Email me for low prices on ALL AGD Products and more. [email protected]
    Tunamart

    Comment

    • JAKEtheJAB
      Registered User
      • Feb 2006
      • 58

      #3
      Do you mean the magnet on the trigger? How would you do that?

      Comment

      • flyingpootang
        Magtechian with X disease

        • Dec 2005
        • 2276

        #4
        Originally posted by JAKEtheJAB
        Do you mean the magnet on the trigger? How would you do that?
        If it's a stock trigger it should have a grub screw on the face of your trigger. Back out this screw and see if your light turns on. On the back side there is a gold disk that is the magnet. Also know if you seperate the body from the frame remember to remove the sear pin. The trigger stop is also adjustable from the selector switch inside of the trigger frame.

        Comment

        • JAKEtheJAB
          Registered User
          • Feb 2006
          • 58

          #5
          Originally posted by flyingpootang
          If it's a stock trigger it should have a grub screw on the face of your trigger. Back out this screw and see if your light turns on. On the back side there is a gold disk that is the magnet. Also know if you seperate the body from the frame remember to remove the sear pin. The trigger stop is also adjustable from the selector switch inside of the trigger frame.
          Why remove the sear pin?

          Comment

          • JAKEtheJAB
            Registered User
            • Feb 2006
            • 58

            #6
            Get this, I could not find an allen wrench small enough to take off the magnet on the back of the trigger. But by shear accident I stuck an allen wrench to the magnet, right when I did that my LED light came on, but if I pull the allen wrench off it instantly shuts off.

            Comment

            • SeeK
              NCC1701-A
              • Sep 2002
              • 464

              #7
              Originally posted by JAKEtheJAB
              Get this, I could not find an allen wrench small enough to take off the magnet on the back of the trigger. But by shear accident I stuck an allen wrench to the magnet, right when I did that my LED light came on, but if I pull the allen wrench off it instantly shuts off.
              I believe this indicates that the magnet in the trigger is too close as Tuna suggested backing it out.

              When you put the Allen wrench in it changed the magnetic field to be a different shape. I think it would then radiate out the ends of the wrench. This would cause the magnetic bubble to move away from the HES. I discovered the same thing when I first started working on my trigger.
              Forest Gump of paintball

              Comment

              • flyingpootang
                Magtechian with X disease

                • Dec 2005
                • 2276

                #8
                Originally posted by JAKEtheJAB
                Why remove the sear pin?
                The sear pin is only removed when taking apart the body and trigger frame. If you don't take ot out you will damage the solenoid. Please see the emag instruction manual at airgun.com

                Comment

                • flyingpootang
                  Magtechian with X disease

                  • Dec 2005
                  • 2276

                  #9
                  Originally posted by SeeK
                  I believe this indicates that the magnet in the trigger is too close as Tuna suggested backing it out.

                  When you put the Allen wrench in it changed the magnetic field to be a different shape. I think it would then radiate out the ends of the wrench. This would cause the magnetic bubble to move away from the HES. I discovered the same thing when I first started working on my trigger.
                  Thats correct the trigger magnet is too close to the HES which causes the HES to think the trigger is being held back. That is why it is not firing.....

                  Comment

                  • JAKEtheJAB
                    Registered User
                    • Feb 2006
                    • 58

                    #10
                    I already took the frame apart without taking off the sear pin, does this mean the solenoid is damaged?

                    Comment

                    • flyingpootang
                      Magtechian with X disease

                      • Dec 2005
                      • 2276

                      #11
                      [QUOTE=JAKEtheJAB]I already took the frame apart without taking off the sear pin, does this mean the solenoid is damaged?[/QUOTE

                      Sorry I should have said when you seperate the trigger frame to rail the sear pin must be removed. You can safely remove the main body safely while leaving the rail/grip frame together. Your Emag has 3 main components body, rail, & grip frame.

                      Comment

                      • shades
                        Borg in my den. Really!!
                        • Sep 2002
                        • 269

                        #12
                        There are two trigger adjustments one is in the selector switch(manual/electronic) which is your gross adjustment and one in the trigger (fine adjust). You have to remove the grip from the rail to get to the gross adjust. Then you can adjust the trigger away from the hall sensor so you can check out your electronics. If you start getting frustrated send it to some one who adjust for you so you can get playing. You will love it.
                        If you want Ill give it a go.

                        How to Fly: Throw yourself at the ground and miss. "Hichikers guide to the Galaxy"

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